Newbie with a few questions.

[Rauchen]

Hello, brand new to the forum and muzzle loading in general! No experience with metal or woodworking, but  I went ahead and bought a Kibler Colonial kit just yesterday. Resources online seem a little muddled, and I'm starting from absolute zero, but I'd like to do things correctly. Is there a comprehensive list of tools required to put the kit together? I'd also like to put a really nice, historically appropriate varnish on the stock. I found a seemingly great resource on varnishes in Muzzle Blasts Online (Volume 5 Number 2), is the recipe for the Brown Oil Varnish proper/practical? Are the resins noted in it readily available? Including an image of the recipe below. What sort of bluing (if any) was applied to the lock/barrel of the average rifle? Also vaguely interested in doing some very minimal carving/engraving on the stock and metal bits of the rifle, but I really don't know where to start on learning that, is it practical for newbie to even try to get into the weeds regarding that sort of thing?

Ultimately I want to make a rifle that looks like a period accurate hunting piece used by the average man. Sorry if this isn't the right place, or if I asked too many! Just excited to get this kit going.

[Dave Marsh]

I would suggest that you put it together following Jim's videos.  I would also recommend that you do not attempt carving or engraving, or you could turn a nice $1000+ kit into a pile of parts.  Carving and engraving require quite a bit of practice and special tools.  Last suggestion is finishing it the way Jim does in his videos especially if it is curly maple. Don't bite off more than you can chew on the first one.  Just my humble opinion.  Expect many more opinions coming.

[Dphariss]

I heat the store bought boiled Linseed oil in a deep fat frier on high with about 2 tablespoons of Japan Drier. I also add about 1/2 cup of calcium carbonate (pounded up limestone will work) such as lime from the garden supply store or calcium pills/powder from a health food store, so long as it has no other additives. It will start to bubble as the calcium kills the acids in the oil. Heat it until its starts to smoke stir it with something that stand the heat and long enough to keep you from getting too close.

To mix in the resins (I use food grade Rosin and Gum Benzoin bought off the internet). I heat the turpentine CAREFULLY till just short of it smoking. Its a LOT MORE flammable than the oil. SO it must not be heated to its ignition temp. It only needs to be hot enough to readily dissolve the resins. Once these are slowly stirred in with no lumps etc add them to the proper amount slightly cooled hot oil or add oil to the resin mix pot (another deep far frier). Once in turn up the deep fat frier again to high and leave this heat for a time to drive off some of the volatiles in the turp. Or do this the next day.
Now remember this is hot oil and will cause severe or even fatal burns. This MUST be done outside with the maker well protected by clothing and no children or animals about. Let the oil cool and examine it. A room temp it should be heavier bodied than the oil originally used and there will be some loss due to the smoking during the high heat phase. It will also be darker.
But BE CAREFUL, BE CAREFUL, BE CAREFUL. Flammable, very hot and you don’t want any parts of any living thing deep fat fried on its feet. Natural fiber clothing (plastic clothing melts) full coverage, Leather boots that come high enough to be protected by pant/coverall legs, a good face mask, heavy gloves.

Where do you live? You might be able to find someone in your area to help you with the build with advice and perhaps instruction if needed.
 There are instructive videos available from American Pioneer Videos that can be a great help. I liked the carving video by Wallace Gusler but there are others as well. I have some engraving videos as well that are helpful.

[Dphariss]

And like Dave Marsh said above.
AND there are some pretty decent finishes that require no heat or other potentially dangerous activities. For example Birchwood-Casey True Oil mixed about 50-50 with hardware store boiled linseed oil is not too far from the “brown varnish” and it easy for a first timer. For the first coat thin with about 10% real turpentine. Never use the synthetic stuff. Turpentine or finish.
Maple is best with Ferric Nitrate. Which can be made from distilled water and crystals that can be found on the internet. I would avoid most store bought “Aqua Fortis” some of the commercial stuff is adulterated with hydrochloric and can cause problems.

[Steeltrap]

https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=50252.0

Here's a series of Jim's videos about building and finishing his Colonial kit.

[Rauchen]

To Dave
Thanks for the probably sensible take on how I should approach the build. I don't even have it in my hands at this point, I'm probably just a bit too excited for things. I'll keep your opinion in mind!

Dhparris
Thank you for your varnishing recipe! The True Oil/BLO mix is probably good enough for the look I'm going for, but I would really really like to do at least some parts of it 'right'. I live in South Florida, and as far as I know Muzzeloading isn't exactly the most popular in this area, sadly.

I got my kit with a Cherry stock, not Maple.

[Dave Marsh]

Nothing wrong with your excitement just remember to be patient and realistic as to what you can and can't do.  Good luck. 

[J. Talbert]

I would suggest that you put it together following Jim's videos.  I would also recommend that you do not attempt carving or engraving, or you could turn a nice $1000+ kit into a pile of parts.  Carving and engraving require quite a bit of practice and special tools.  Last suggestion is finishing it the way Jim does in his videos especially if it is curly maple. Don't bite off more than you can chew on the first one.  Just my humble opinion.  Expect many more opinions coming.

I agree with Dave. I would resist the temptation to attempt your first venture into carving and engraving on this beautiful Kibler colonial rifle, unless you can do a LOT of practice before hand or perhaps have the advantage of an experienced carver/engraver who can guide you.
As far as the finish, there are a lot of suitable choices available including plain boiled linseed oil, Tung oil, Tried and True varnish oil, and Waterlox, just to name some that I have actually used.
A good result is at least as much to do with HOW you apply the finish as it is with what finish you choose to use.
The first coat should be liberally applied and allowed to soak in for 5 to 10 minutes and then the excess wiped away with a clean dry cloth.  All subsequent coats should be very thin, applying just a dab of finish to small area and rubbed in by hand and so on.

Good luck,
Jeff

[AZshot]

Enjoy the exciting period of decisions and waiting and then working on it!  I'll agree with above, Tru-Oil works well.  Another that I'm starting to use almost exclusively on my wood stocks in Chambers traditional oil finish.  Works about the same.  On Cherry with a closed grain, you'll start to get some gloss (it will stop soaking in) within 2 or 3 coats I'd say.  When you get to your last coat, you can leave it glossy, or gently brush it down to more mat with some scotchbrite.  If you decide you don't like it and want glossy, it's easy to just put another coat on. 

[taterbug]

I really like Dan's suggestion of using Tru-Oil, cut, with oil and/or turp.  it's easy to get, usually.  And the other ingredients are not too hard to find either. 

I have also used it with one or two drops of Birchwood Casey's walnut stain on lighter woods, when I couldn't get aqua fortis.  But you probably wont need that on Cherry.  I mix a small amount , 1/4" or so, in a small paper pill cup.  you can mix more if you run out on one coat, but you dont waste it or have a lot left over.  Also, having the original container open for very long will lead to it going hard in the container. 

i used Tru-oil, straight, on my first refinish job (suppository), and I felt it does set up too fast out of the bottle. 

[Daryl]

This .69 Sporting Rifle has a straight true oil finished stock. The picture was taken some 25 years after the rifle was
built, by Taylor. It is held by my late hunting buddy. This rifle had been on MANY hunts in dastardly weather down to
-56F, as well as rain and snow. I'd say it's held up quite well, considering all the shooting it gets - my favourite "match"
rifle, but now, almost exactly 40 years after being made and perhaps 8,000 shots or more, it needs refinishing due to wear.
 

[Rauchen]

This .69 Sporting Rifle has a straight true oil finished stock. The picture was taken some 25 years after the rifle was
built, by Taylor. It is held by my late hunting buddy. This rifle had been on MANY hunts in dastardly weather down to
-56F, as well as rain and snow. I'd say it's held up quite well, considering all the shooting it gets - my favourite "match"
rifle, but now, almost exactly 40 years after being made and perhaps 8,000 shots or more, it needs refinishing due to wear.
-images snipped-

Heh, that rifle is almost twice my age! The finish on that looks wonderful after two and half decades. Might have to consider a true oil finish, as well...lots of options, and plenty of time, I guess 

I should probably try to find cherry off cuts to sand and experiment on.

[Daryl]

A;though I didn't dull this one after finishing it, on most of my rifles (modern), I use pumice of rottenstone to dull the finish.
Taylor's Joseph Lang rifle of similar design, has what looks like a Grande piano-type finish and that finish is original to it's 1850's manufacture.
Looking closely, the surface has a myriad of checks and cracks in it's finish, similar to a 120 year old grandfather clock I used to have.
This type of finish is easily done with true oil, just takes a lot of coats and sanding in between, on figured walnut.

[bluenoser]

That must be Taylor's work bench.  It's too uncluttered to be Daryl's

[Hawg]

A correct metal finish would be no finish. Browning didn't come along until around the 1790's. I browned my woodsrunner because it's easier to care for than in the white. Besides not many people are going to know unless you tell them. I'm sure many rifles browned naturally by themselves before that time.

[Pete G.]

You can try some carving on the patch box lid. If it doesn’t suit, then get another lid from Kibler.
Also, you can use a solution of water and drain cleaner to stain cherry. Gives sort of a chestnut color.

[J.D.]

I understand your excitement at the prospect of building this rifle, including your desire to use as many techniques used by the classic gunsmith's of the 18th century. However, I have to agree with Dave. Keep this build simple. As simple as anyone could make it. I would encourage you to avoid attempting any carving, engraving, or using any home made finish, on this one. Save those experiments for scrap wood, before cutting into good, expensive wood.

If you want to learn to carve, or experiment with home made finishes, pick up a package of grilling slabs, containing slabs of maple and other woods, as a place to begin. There are quite a lot of instructional videos on wood carving, on line, to include what tools you need, how to use them...and how to keep them sharp. As far as Longrifle carving videos, Wallace Gusler, Mike Miller, and a couple of others, have excellent videos, available through American Pioneer Videos, and vendors such as the Log Cabin Shop. There are also a number of longrifle building classes, and associated arts, available throughout the year.

I also second the recommendation to follow Kibler's instructional videos, to the letter, for this rifle. By following Jim's instructions, you will complete a very nice rifle you can be proud of, and one to enjoy for years to come.

IMHO, using this rifle to get your feet wet may spark the passion for building fine longrifles, but that takes time, lots of work, and a good bit of education from expert builders, to turn raw parts into fine rifles.

[Eric Krewson]

Like was said; follow Jim's videos and NEVER reach for something that cuts faster, Dremel tools are a no-no unless you have extensive experience with one. Very sharp tools are a must, dull chisels and gouges splinter everything they touch, learn how to sharpen your tools before you start.

Here is one tale of woe on a Colonial build; like you, an inexperienced guy bought the kit, he asked us how to do every step, we gave him precise, simple instructions to help him out. He would get his head off in space and come up with some cockeyed, complicated way to do the job that ran contrary to what we told him. He made such a mess of everything that I bailed on the thread when I realized this guy just couldn't follow instructions. Don't be that guy.

I helped a friend with a SMR build via Facebook messinger, I had put one together and took pictures of everything I did. I wrote him volumes and sent pictures but he couldn't follow instructions either.  He finished the rifle with flaws but the browning job looks like a dog with the mange, even after three atempts with LMF, he wouldn't do what I told him to do.

Here is a biggie; when you find yourself losing focus, we all do, put your tools down and come back later, this will save you some grief down the road.

[bluenoser]

Read that last statement, reread it and then read it again!  Like many others, I have been guilty of forging on when I knew better, and have paid the price.

[Scota4570]

Forget about making varnish for now.  That is post doctoral level. 

Spar varnish will work great.  Get the gloss kind.  Dilute it with mineral spirits or turpentine.  Apply it very thin.  Do not let it pool on the surface.  Wait a day between coats. 

95% of what a finish looks like is the process not the material.  No need to complicate things.