fowler barrel prep

[foresterdj]

Working more on barrel finishing prep on my fowler. I lightly draw filed the barrel, as Jim Kibler showed in his video. The machining marks were very minor so only slight draw filing was needed. I then began sanding with 220 and then 320 grit. I do not want to go finer than that as I plan to blue this barrel (don't want a shiny bright barrel scaring the turkeys this spring).

As I review my sanding work with opti-visor I see tiny strips of file marks here and there. By tiny I mean like a couple hundredths wide an inch or two long. I suppose one swipe more at that spot when draw filing created a tiny flat in the barrel that is below the round circumference of the barrel. I have sanded a lot going around, shoeshine style, to try to eliminate these but seem to be getting nowhere with them.

Maybe I should just do a sanding lengthwise, to eliminate the file marks. I am just not sure if doing it that way, which maintains the flat below the circumference (albeit a flat minus the file marks) will be more or less visible later.

I must say these are small marks, hard to see with bare eye but you do see a difference in the light reflection.

So, to sand (more) or not to sand, that is the question.

[rich pierce]

I guess it depends on your final look. If you’re going with bright or slightly grayed, and you are building it as a higher end English fowler, or for a polished blue, some small imperfections may seem out of place to you. If building it as a mid-grade export fowler I’d quit polishing.

[HSmithTX]

Use a block instead of shoe shine sanding,  it will take the corners off your draw file flats and bring the barrel round a whole lot faster and easier. 

[Pukka Bundook]

HSmith,
I think Forester means show shine on the round part, not the octagonal bit.

[HSmithTX]

Hi Pukka,  yes I think so as well, sanding around the barrel using a block will be a lot more effective than shoe shine polishing because it will take off the corners of the draw file flats.  Like filing to round.   

[Jim Kibler]

It's best to have all polish marks (scratches) to be parallel to the length of the barrel.  I think this is much more in line with what would be seen on original work.

Jim

[foresterdj]

Thanks. I will sand more as described when I get back to barrel work. I decided to put barrel back into the stock, to support the stock, while finishing it. I would just cry if I broke that dainty forestock.