Flint hanging up

[Acer Saccharum]

Shoot it full of holes. The originals were. I think Thompson Center screws the thimbles down onto the lugs, but that's not traditional practice. You may build your rifle any way you like, but you will hear about tradition on this forum. Over and over and over again. Hahahaha.

Keep us posted.

Tom

[Roger Fisher]

Pin the pipes and lugs together

Nope!

[Birddog6]

Please tell me I can still do it that way!!!! I kinda thought I would run into problems. I was trying to figure out how not to drill and pin so many holes. I would rather have only three holes in the stock instead of 6. But that is the thinking of a green rookie that makes no claim he knows what he is doing.  

I think it would be a good idea that you buy  "The Gunsmiths of Grenville County" builders book & read it  Before  you go any further.  I think you may be getting the cart ahead of the horse in a some instances ........   Not to be discouraging, but are wanting to overhaul the lock & you don't know how to build a rifle yet ,  
IMHO, you need to stop & back up, get a builders book &  read........ before ya turn $ 800 worth of parts into $100 worth of pieces that are useless.......  

There are some critical safety issues on building a rifle that there is no room for guessing on, for your safety & the safety of others.  I think ya need to stop & rethink all of this & so some reading.......  an not just online, get a good builders book & read it....   

[Woodstock]

Once again thanks for the advice.
Sorry if I gave you the wrong impression.
No chance of there being any safety issues once done. This is not my first build but the first in a long time. About 20 years. The first was a Capper kit that needed very little work done to it and in no way as involved as this project. I had not idea of the amount of work involved and how precise it had to be until I got the parts in. It will not be traditional correct I am quite sure but will be as close as I can get it on the first try. Functionally it will be right and safe or it will not leave the shop. I also work on my own pistols. I shoot some competition now and then and have to replace parts and so forth. Been doing this for a long time with no issues. No gunsmith by any stretch but I can hold my own.
I may have used the wrong terminology. The barrel lugs are a blade type about 1.5MM thick if that much with a dovetail base. As with the pipes being about 2 MM or there bouts. Side by side together being around 3.5 to 4MM at most. I did not see where this was too much wood coming out of the rod channel.  I will have another hard look at it when I get back home before proceeding as well as getting that book on the way. Once I get the book maybe I won’t have to bother you guys so much LOL.
Thanks again,       

[t.caster]

Sage advice from Birddog6! I wholeheartedly  endorse it!
Does anyone on this sight live near Woodstock, who could help him get started right?

[Birddog6]

  I will have another hard look at it when I get back home before proceeding as well as getting that book on the way. Once I get the book maybe I won’t have to bother you guys so much LOL.
Thanks again,     

Woodstock:

  You are not being a bother, we are trying to keep you safe & also trying to keep you from making errors that could be avoided.   

Now the underlugs do not go in the same slot or against the RR pipes if it can be helped.   Before I put the underlugs in, I lay the barrel in the channel & I space out the underlugs & the RR pipes purposely to keep them apart. On a 38" barrel I usually use 3 underlugs. (now in this instance the center pipe is near the underlug, but I get it away as far as I can)   But on a 42-44" barrel I would use 4
underlugs. And again spaced as not to interfere with the RR pipes. 
I measure back from the muzzle the distance I want the front pipe. I mark where the Entrypipe will be & I split the distance between & put the center pipe.
I come out about ? 8" or so from the breech for the first underlug, come in from the muzzle on the front underlug, then try to evenly space the other two underlugs & they are not going to come out on the center RR pipe.

Now drilling allot of holes is just the way it is.......  There is a right way & a wrong way to do this & trying to line up lugs & pipes in the same slot is not the correct way to accomplish this.  You may get it to work, but it is not right.  Also you may not have enough support for the wood on a long slim rifle with only three underlugs. as you don't have enough of them, etc.

Get the book, you will see what I am talking about & why when you lay it all out. 

I don't know where you are, but if you are in AL, come over here & I will be most happy to show you how to do it.

Good Luck,

Keith

[Pete G.]

Keith is giving good advice. Even if there are no safety issues involved, it is just not correct. If you are building a reasonable replica of a long rifle you will regret not doing something correctly, regardless of how well it is done. I have some early builds that I can now see where the shaping could have been better and it now looks to be a glaring mistake that jumps out at me every time I see the rifle. It is good to become educated on these things ( I've got more money invested in books than any single rifle is worth), but the more you know, the more errors will bother you. I was absolutely delighted with my first rifle, a Dixie Tennessee rifle because no one else sold anything close to a real longrifle at the time, but now it looks terrible to me. Such is the price of progress and gives the motivation to move on to the next build, because every one gets better. I figure if I keep this up until I'm 128 years old I may finally build something that I am satisfied with.

[Burgess_rudy]

I had this same problem about four months ago and got some great advice from people here. The answer that helped the most for my lock was the angle at which the frizzen opens upon it's own force, and if I recall that should be at about a 30 degree angle. My frizzen angle was much larger than that so I slowly filed down the tit(?) of the frizzen until it flipped over much sooner in the timing sequence.

http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=5619.msg53208#msg53208