Best Wood/Stain Combo for Carved Stocks

[Sherrell]

And I’ve seen some previous discussion of this issue here.  But I would like to expand the discussion…

From the standpoint both of appearance and functionality (e.g., resilience in use), which wood (maple, fancy maple, extra fancy maple, cherry, walnut, etc.) and stain/finish combinations do you feel are superior for a art-carved full stock contemporary rifle (such as a carved-stock Kibler Colonial or Woodsrunner)?

I know the answer to this question is to a large extent subjective and in the eye of the beholder - but not all of it. 

Let’s hear your opinion and see your supporting pics!

[whetrock]

Money and skill level are major issues here, as are the type of carving. Fancy wood costs more and is harder to carve successfully.  A simple rifle with no carving can look very elegant, and sometimes even more elegant with plain wood. In contrast, a rifle with fancy wood and poorly executed carving sometimes just looks a mess. So skill is a factor.

Appropriately designed simple carving with mostly incised carving (lines cut into the stock) will work with any type of wood. Raised carving can be harder to execute in fancy wood. Raised carving can be prone to wear and chipping in cherry and walnut.

That may not be exactly what you were asking about, but I think it's part of the "expanded" discussion, as you mentioned.

[rfd]

Yes, totally subjective for both wood and metal.  For maple stocks I'll only use iron nitrate (aqua fortis), whether plain wood or fancy, carved or not.  I prefer stock wood uncarved.  My clearing finish of choice is warmed Tru-Oil, well wiped on with a 3M Scotch Brite fine pad, allowed to set a few minutes and then any excess wiped off with paper toweling.  The Kibler fowler I'm finishing right now has a plain maple stock with its supplied machine carving below the tang.  It finishes nicely with the aforementioned stain/clear coat process.  Here's a previous completed fowler in fancy maple stock, finished in the same manner, but with the last clear coat not wiped down with paper toweling ....

[Sherrell]

Yes, Whetlock, good stuff.  Thank you. 
Wow, rfd, that’s a beautiful gun.  Thanks for sharing…

Others?
Should I avoid stock carving altogether given the gun isn’t going to be a “Mantel Queen”?
If I go with Jim’s carved option, which wood/finish might provide the best blend of beauty and durability?
Are there any real differences?
What are the experiences of those who’ve gone the art-carved route in a gun they actually use rather than just look at and appreciate as a work of art?


Sherrell

[rfd]

Should I avoid stock carving altogether given the gun isn’t going to be a “Mantel Queen”?

What would make you most happy - carved or plain?  Guns taken afield fairly regularly will acquire "field rash" sooner than later.  If that bothers you, don't carve.

If I go with Jim’s carved option, which wood/finish might provide the best blend of beauty and durability?

There are too many variables in your question, with the first one being your ability and depth of experience with wood finishing.  Any and all stains and clear coats will get the job well done, the rest is up to you.  Other than the personal crafting aspect, the rest is all subjective.

[rfd]

What are the experiences of those who’ve gone the art-carved route in a gun they actually use rather than just look at and appreciate as a work of art?

As mentioned, dings happen to well used guns ..... or even those not used too often.

IF you like the aesthetics of carved stocks, go for it and enjoy.

I vastly prefer firelocks that have more of a true Colonial look, which for the most part excludes carving and fancy wood grain.  Or if there is/was any carving done to a gun by its owner in the era to a purchased or otherwise "acquired" gun, it wasn't at all that "precise and pretty". 

[Sherrell]

rfd,
Thank you for raising the wood finishing experience question...
I’ve built and finished exactly one blackpowder rifle in walnut. It turned out pretty nice.  I’ve had some experience refinishing wooden furniture over the years.  So I’d say my expertise level in wood finishing is about average for a 1st time Kibler kit builder.  More than many and definitely less than many.  I know folks who’ve built Jim’s kits who have far less experience than I do, who built and finished beautiful guns.  I’ve looked at Jim’s stock finishing videos and I’m not intimidated by anything I’ve seen there.  (That, of course, doesn’t guarantee anything in terms of outcomes.)  But I’ve built a lot stuff (including an entire car from the ground up) over my 70+ years.  I’m pretty confident in my ability to gauge my limitations – of which I have many.

Are there some stock woods and some modern/common finishes that are just more durable: less susceptible to pitting, chipping, cracking, and marring than others?  (And please don’t say polyurethane…SMILE )

[rfd]

Are there some stock woods and some modern/common finishes that are just more durable: less susceptible to pitting, chipping, cracking, and marring than others?  (And please don’t say polyurethane…SMILE )

Plain sawn wood with straight grain will typically be stronger than grainy wood.  As a luthier, fancy wood "flame" and "quilt" necks aren't a strong or as warp free as plain straight grain.

Straight oil finishes like raw tung or BLO won't cure hard and can be tacky feeling as a result which is why I prefer Tru-Oil as it has agents that will promote curing ... not period correct but that's okay by me.

Only maple gets iron nitrate, almost all other woods I've worked with are just clear coated (Tru-Oil).

I hear ya on the age thing, I turn 80 years around the sun in a few months ... are we havin' fun, yet? 

[smart dog]

Hi,
Select any maple wood that appeals to you.  Don't worry about chipping or cracking.  A good dry piece of maple will be fine.  Plainer wood is easier to carve and highly figured wood tends to obscure carving.  However, figured wood and carving are very compatible and look stunning. I use ferric nitrate in water on almost all my maple stocks but often add other stain to the wood or to the finish depending on the piece of wood and my objectives.  My finish of choice is always Sutherland -Welles polymerized tung oil with the emphasis on "polymerized" meaning it is heat treated and solvents added to speed drying.  Tru-Oil is polymerized linseed oil for comparison.  Here are examples.  They all have slightly different colors, sheens, and textures depending on what I wanted for the specific gun.

 




















dave