I agree, what I have known as a "freshing tool" was a bit used in touching up the rifling in a barrel, as to "refresh" the bore.
As for the tool to cut the molding on the forestock or buttstock, I made them out of a piece of tool steel. Don't have access to it right now but can get you a photo of it in a couple of days when I get back. The cut in the steel is just opposite of the shape you want to cut. I have tried to use them them several times, I found it easier just to do it by hand. Most likely because that is how I learned to do it, not because the tool didn't work, I just get used to doing something a certain way & get comfortable with it.
I usually take a compass & drop the pointer edge on the barrel inlet against the barrel & put the lead down where I want it on the forestock & make a line down the forestock. Sometimes I just hold my fingers on the edge of the RR groove & adjust the pencil to where I want it & pull down the forestock & use my fingers as a guide. I do it a couple dif way til I get it the way I want it. Then cut straight in with a knife about 1/16" deep, then make a V cut into the original cut, with the V slanted up towards the barrel, then use the flat part of a 6" rasp that has the handle heated & turned up.
Having done them both way, I find if you want a crisp clean cut line down the edge of the forestock, the scraper will not accomplish this if it is very curly wood. If it is kinda plain, you can work it dif direction & get pretty clean cuts, but real curly it is constantly going against grain & pulling instead of cutting. Well, obviously thought is "go the other way", but when you have a opposing grain ever 1/8" to 3/16", that gets very flustrating & for me it is just easier to cut it with a knife blade & V it out & go on.
