Advice on starting out?

[longhunter1757]

Gentlemen,
    I've been perusing the forums for quite some time now and I'm interested in learning how to make hunting pouch. Could you please give me some advice on how I should begin as far as tools, books, etc.
I've made a few knife sheaths and a pouch or two in the past but they were strictly utiltarian. Now I'd like to take it to the next level.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Humbly,

Rich Baker

[Lee]

Try Tim Albert's book Recreating the 18th Century Hunting Pouch.  It's available through Track of the Wolf (www.trackofthewolf.com).  Great pictures with clear instructions; best how-to out there....
Lee

[Bill of the 45th]

What Lee said is good advice.  But for more info Google hunting pouch, and go thru the first three or four pages,  Reviews of T.C.'s book, and even patterns.

Bill

[BrownBear]

I agree with the recommendation of Albert's book. I'd been doing leatherwork for quite some time, even making a few bags from assorted patterns.  But the book "brought it all together" for me.  Using the techniques he demonstrates, I've moved to a much higher skill level.  The patterns in the book are great, plus you'll have a better understanding of any other bags you see.

[longhunter1757]

I was looking at Albert's book and after your recommendations I'm going to purchase it.
Thanks very much for the advice!

Rich

[El Lobo]

Mr. Albert also has a website dedicated to hunting pouches and traditional leatherwork.  You can check it out at www.thehuntingpouch.com

Oh, and you can get a signed first edition copy of Tim's book direct from him via his website, too.

Lobo

[Dphariss]

Gentlemen,
    I've been perusing the forums for quite some time now and I'm interested in learning how to make hunting pouch. Could you please give me some advice on how I should begin as far as tools, books, etc.
I've made a few knife sheaths and a pouch or two in the past but they were strictly utiltarian. Now I'd like to take it to the next level.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Humbly,

Rich Baker

I have been known to scan photos from books and catalogs then enlarge to real life size and use these a pattern.
Most pouches were utilitarian but I find myself making something a little different than the one I made as a teenager and used for about 40 years now.
I have another double pouch cut out right now, copied from and original that a friend brought by.
I got so intrigued with looking at it I forgot to take photos

Dan

[msw]

Tim Albert's book is great- wish i'd had it before i ruined a bunch of leather and used enough profanity to substantially increase my already lengthy stay in purgatory.

After getting his book, the only real problem i had was getting waxed linen that would fit through the hole of the needle.  The stuff you get from Tandy won't fit through the needles from Tandy.  go figure.

Good luck with your project.

(By the way, if you dye it black, the bloodstains don't show 

[G. Elsenbeck]

LongHunter, the advice given so far would be good to follow.  In the beginning I also had problems with the thread, size of the needle, etc.  Here's a tip; Get the Tandy 'Small sized" needles and you will find that a 5 cord will go through the eye fine.  Secondly, do not buy their thread, too fat and flat.  Go to Campbell & Bosworth to get their waxed linen thread.  So much better and costs less than Tandy. 
http://campbell-bosworth.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=linen

Happy threading.
Gary

[longhunter1757]

Thanks for the replies gentlemen! Us newbies sure appreciate the help and encouragement!

Rich

[BrownBear]

It didn't come up yet, but a good sharp awl will make all the difference in sewing leather.  Just be careful, because it will draw blood better than any needle under the sun.  But with multiple layers of leather, the thin blades I like can break when you're ham-handed like me.  I've settled on this awl for my needs, just because I can change blades.  I also like the two flat sides on the handle that keep it from rolling off the table and ruining a blade when it hits the floor.... or drawing blood when it spears your foot.  I prefer this blade for shooting bags, but the larger version is lots sturdier and less prone to breaking.  You just need to watch the alignment more carefully if you're doing close-spaced stitches.

There are other awls out there, and you'll probably try them all and find your own favorite.  I've shared my prejudices and others will do so, too.

[longhunter1757]

How about stitching?
I know to use linen thread and Gary already said what size.
Do you use an overstitch wheel to space the stitches or just eyeball it?
How many threads per inch is normally used?

Thanks again!

Rich

[BrownBear]

Yeah, linen is best because it's tough, but won't stretch like nylon.  Be sure and wax it (beeswax).  I use a saddle stitch almost exclusively. 

And most of the time an overstitch wheel is priceless.  When running it over the rough side of leather though, the marks will disappear as you wrestle with the leather.  On the rough side I like to follow behind it and use a fine-point Sharpie to add a spot of color each place the wheel contacts.  The finest available from Tandy and most sources is a 7 lpi.  That's fine for most things, though smaller definitely has some "cool factor" going for it when you've got your awl work down pat.  Originals went as fine as 12, but I doubt I'm up to that.  I am about ready to look for an 8 or a 10, though.

You might not be ready to try it right away, but I've found that adding a welt makes for the strongest possible seams.  TC's book tells you all you need to know about them.

[G. Elsenbeck]

Rich, by all means use a stitching wheel whenever possible.  It sure helps staying on a straight line too.  A number 5 (5 marks in an inch) is a good general space to use and ones in the 6 - 8 range would also be good as your experience and talents increase.  I think Tandy has one that comes with 3 spacing wheels so that might be perfect for a beginner.  
Happy stitching.
Gary

[longhunter1757]

BrownBear,
    I've done welts in knife sheaths but those were pretty much straight lines. Would you mind explaining how this makes for a stronger seam.

Thanks!

Rich

[T.C.Albert]

I have often asked myself this same question...and from what I can tell,  If you reverse stitch a pouch with out a welt, then turn it right side out...the stitches tend to be exposed at the seam and subject to abrasion and premature failure over time...not to mention putting a little extra stress on the edges of the panels where the stitch holes are awled in that could cause a tear out along the seam...a welt eases both of these concerns...at least thats how I have come to understand it as I stitch... plus the old timers really believed in using them too...and they understood why alot better than I do...
so to replicate their traditional work as closly as I can, I employ them as well...

if you flat stitch a bag with out a welt, them the same is true but from the inside...although many flat stitched bags that Ive seen are bound on the outside edges and not welted....perhaps to avoid piling up too many layers.

a welt in a sheath is akin to a spacer that keeps the blade from nicking the stitches...

TCA

[BrownBear]

BrownBear,
    I've done welts in knife sheaths but those were pretty much straight lines. Would you mind explaining how this makes for a stronger seam.

Thanks!

Rich

TC covered it better (and with a lot more experience!) than I can.  I tried sewing welts a few times when I was starting out and ran into problems.  After getting TCs book and learning how he does it, the problems were solved and I make them virtually standard in my bags.   I'm REALLY hard on gear and have manage to rip out standard seams one way or another.  Never with welts, though.  If I can add a guess to his good explanation, it "seems" like the extra layer of leather provides some kind of cushioning or "shock absorbing" to the stitching, and both the thread and the leather of the panels survive a lot more abuse.

[longhunter1757]

OK, makes perfect sense to me.
Thank you gentlemen!
Off to experiment!

Rich