Multiple varied questions

[frogwalking]

I am getting near to completion on the .40 cal rifle.  Several questions:

The White Lightning flash hole liner currently has a flash hole diameter slightly less than 1/16 inch.  I can see the 1/16 inch drill bit breaking in my mind, so that is out.  Do I need to open it slightly with my swiss needle file or is it ok as is?

I have stained the stock with Ferric nitrate as I read from  you folks earlier and the color and stripe are fine.  Have put several coats of Jim and Barbie's stock finish.  In my past life as a person who know all the answers, I rubbed the stock down between coats with steel wool.  I read some of  you folks saying that is not a good
idea on maple.  That being the case (if it is) how do I
fill the pores, keep it cleaned off the permanently installed brass and silver but still get it thick enough to protect the stock?  How do I finish with a satin finish rather than gloss?

Oh.  Am rust bluing the barrel.  First rust in progress.  (Of course the lowest humidity of the year.)  Do I need to boil the barrel between rust coats or just card and re rust, boiling after all rusting appears to be completed 

Thanks for the information.

[tallbear]

Frog
1;I open all mine to 1/16",never had a problem with the bit breaking the web is very thin.

2;Steel wool is fine.I think what you are referring to is some people don't use steel wool to whisker with aqua-fortis lest the steel splinters rust with the acid.I wouldn.t think there would be a problem with Ferric or when your at the finish stage.Just go easy on the high spots.

3;Most directions say boil between applications I've done it both ways with good results

Mitch

[Dphariss]

I am getting near to completion on the .40 cal rifle.  Several questions:

The White Lightning flash hole liner currently has a flash hole diameter slightly less than 1/16 inch.  I can see the 1/16 inch drill bit breaking in my mind, so that is out.  Do I need to open it slightly with my swiss needle file or is it ok as is?

I have stained the stock with Ferric nitrate as I read from  you folks earlier and the color and stripe are fine.  Have put several coats of Jim and Barbie's stock finish.  In my past life as a person who know all the answers, I rubbed the stock down between coats with steel wool.  I read some of  you folks saying that is not a good
idea on maple.  That being the case (if it is) how do I
fill the pores, keep it cleaned off the permanently installed brass and silver but still get it thick enough to protect the stock?  How do I finish with a satin finish rather than gloss?

Oh.  Am rust bluing the barrel.  First rust in progress.  (Of course the lowest humidity of the year.)  Do I need to boil the barrel between rust coats or just card and re rust, boiling after all rusting appears to be completed 

Thanks for the information.

I would leave it alone.
If installed right it will be OK.
You can always enlarge later if needed.

Dan

[B Shipman]

Absolutely agree on the liner. In fact , the smaller the hole, the more consistent the pressure, the better the accuracy. It's brainless to open it up but you probably , given good placement,won't  have to.

Try this to knock down the shine. Scrub the final shiney finish with rottenstone and mineral oil mixed in a paste with a stiff toothbrush or something similar. Wipe off. A rag won't work. Put on a final coat of finish and whisk it with a soft rag just as it sets.

[Dphariss]

If the finish will not fill Maple is 2-3 coats with no rubbing its too thin.
You rub on VERY THIN COATS and allow them to dry if the oil is too thin to fill well. Rubbing with steel wool on wood that is white and then stained to color is not a good idea.
The second choice is to make your own oil varnish but this is not recommended unless you have already been cooking your own oil.

Dan

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

If your stock was properly prepared (read whiskered and sanded/scraped) you put on omne heavy seal coat of Chamber's oil varnish, then lighter coats once per day... you only may want to rub the last couple of coats, depending on how many you use.. then like Bill says, rub it back with rottenstone.... any steell wool should be just enough to get of any dust particle.. barely a touch....

There are lots of ways to vary this to age the gun etc.. but there are just a few basics to using Chamber Oil.   Hand rubbing every coat probably will leave you with a thinner coat than you want.