Question About Glue

[Fullstock longrifle]

I would like to pick your collective brains about glue.

I've recently acquired an antique rifle with an old break and repair at the wrist (the usual location).  Apparently when the break occurred (a 100 years or so ago) about a dozen small forged nails were  hammered into the area to be repaired and it's held well for all of these years.
 
Here is my problem.  The repair has worked loose (slightly) and a small gap in the wood is beginning to show.  I would like to stabilize the break and get some glue into the joint, but the crack is so slight that I can't open it enough to get enough glue in it to get a decent repair.  Many years ago, I remember someone showing me a way to heat a certain type of glue to make it liquid and then draw it into a syringe and inject the glue into a slight crack, then clamp it to make the repair.  My question is this, does anyone know of a glue that liquefies when it's heated and stays that way long enough to do what I need to do?

I know, the best way to do this repair would be to simply complete the break and then glue it properly, but trust me, that would open a can of worms that I don't want to deal with at this point.  Besides, the old repair actually looks pretty good and I want to leave it.

I figured that someone here might have done something similar and would know what glue would work for this project.

Thanks 

Frank

[tallbear]

Epoxy thins when heated.West System is one of the best.Use the slowest hardener if your going to heat it.I have used West without heating by loading it in the back of a diabetic syringe (super fine needle).Takes some pressure to get it out but the flow is more controllable and you don't have to worry about it kicking before your done.Epoxy can be colored with powdered tempra pigment from an art supply.

Mitch

[The other DWS]

Frank,

 I have used Loctite #420 for specifically that purpose, repairing antique cracked wood by inserting it into the crack with a disposable micro fine syringe and needle like diabetics use.   it is a very thin wicking-action Cyanoacrylate glue that penetrates wood grain.  I have friends who use it to professionally restore classic highly collectable Bear bows.  They use pressurized air to blow out any dust or debris, inject the 420 CA and clamp.  In some cases the gap will require a second dose to fill.   I got my Loctite 420 by shopping on Amazon,  Its a specialty product that is pretty hard to find at retail outlets

[Lucky R A]

Frank,
          I have used Brownells Acra Glass (not the gel) tinted the appropriate color, and lightly heated to inject into partial breaks.   I then use surgical tubing to clamp the two parts together without any marring of the surface.  See you in Pittsburg,   Ron

[northmn]

Cyanoacrolate glues come in a variety of qualities.  Some very goods ones are sold to archers to hold vanes on carbon arrows.  Good epoxies can also thin with heat and permit longer work times which can be a plus over the super glue type adhesives.  Epoxies used for repair should always be the longer setting type as the 5 minute stuff can break down over time.

DP   

[Fullstock longrifle]

Thanks for the good information and suggestions, I knew you guys would know what glues would work for this project.

Yes, I'm looking forward to Pittsburgh Ron, see you there! 

Frank

[Eric Laird]

Since you're dealing with an antique, you might want to post this same question over on the antique forum. I think the glue you're talking about is actually hide glue. It is a traditional woodworking glue that is heated to liquify, and it was very likely used in the original repair in conjunction with the tacks. The best part about it is that unlike epoxies or cyanoacrylates, virtually anything you do with hide glue can be undone at some later date. A lot of people use that as a basic tenet when doing restorations - don't do anything that can't be undone. If your rifle is a $75 wall hanger you just want to keep from falling apart, epoxy or superglue will be fine, but if it's a valuable antique then you might want to ask the restoration experts (and I'm not one!).
Just my 2 cents.
Eric

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

Woodcraft has has Cyanoacrylate in a variety of thicknesses..no heating necessary!  Getting the injection needle.........well you may find several options there....  Don't forget the surgical tubing to wrap it an hold it till the glue is well set.

[Pete G.]

How about the stuff sold to tighten chair rungs without disassembly?