Author Topic: Question pertaining to tang bedding.  (Read 7404 times)

Offline Rolf

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1766
  • There's more than one way to skin a cat.
Question pertaining to tang bedding.
« on: April 21, 2010, 01:50:18 PM »
I've started on the pair of silver kentucky pistols. I loused :-X up the inleting of the barrel plug lug. There is a 1/16" gap between the rear face of the lug and the stock.
I want to fill this with epoxy.  I have some west systems epoxy + silica powder (powerd glass) at home. Can I use this or should I buy a bedding kit?

Best regards

Rolfkt

Birddog6

  • Guest
Re: Question pertaining to tang bedding.
« Reply #1 on: April 21, 2010, 02:11:25 PM »
If that is the only error, cut it straight & glue a sliver of wood in there vertical & then blacken the plug & fit & shave & fit til it is correct.

Offline rich pierce

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *
  • Posts: 19687
Re: Question pertaining to tang bedding.
« Reply #2 on: April 21, 2010, 06:55:30 PM »
I agree, it's best to use period techniques for a repair like this.
Andover, Vermont

keweenaw

  • Guest
Re: Question pertaining to tang bedding.
« Reply #3 on: April 21, 2010, 07:00:13 PM »
Rolf,

You can either put in a piece of wood as was suggested or use your epoxy.  The West system with powdered glass will be just fine for this.  Add enough glass to make a paste so that it will stay in place and coat the metal liberally with paste wax as a release agent.

Tom

Offline B.Habermehl

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1707
Re: Question pertaining to tang bedding.
« Reply #4 on: April 22, 2010, 04:48:43 AM »
After seeing your workman's ability I would suggest gluing a wafer of wood in the mortice then re fitting. Sure epoxy bedding the tang will work, but your skills are capable of a better correction.  BJH.
BJH

msw

  • Guest
Re: Question pertaining to tang bedding.
« Reply #5 on: April 24, 2010, 02:13:56 PM »
concur with the consensus... i'd go with the 'inlet a sliver' solution.

just one guy's free opinion, and no doubt worth every penny

Offline Dr. Tim-Boone

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *
  • Posts: 6538
  • I Like this hat!!
Re: Question pertaining to tang bedding.
« Reply #6 on: April 24, 2010, 09:00:56 PM »
RolfKT a good picture mihgt get you more/better help....... I like the sliver of wood/and/or peen the tand a little....to stretch it part way
De Oppresso Liber
Marietta, GA

Liberty is the only thing you cannot have unless you are willing to give it to others. – William Allen White

Learning is not compulsory...........neither is survival! - W. Edwards Deming

The other DWS

  • Guest
Re: Question pertaining to tang bedding.
« Reply #7 on: April 24, 2010, 09:16:02 PM »
question,  when you refer to the West systems glass powder filler. are you referring to the "micro-balloon" powder.  its so fine it feels like talc powder --- I have used it a lot on the airplane I'm helping build, along with other West Systems components.  if it is the micro-balloon filler I most definitely would not use it for this application.  the individual grains of that powder are almost microscopic hollow glass spheres,  like little bitty light bulbs.  it adds very light weight bulk to the epoxy mix and is great in low-strength-required applications. An unreinforced section of glass powder filled epoxy once cured will snap like a potato chip--a stale one; and the micro-balloons can crush under impact leaving naught but the un-reinforced epoxy itself to handle the load.

If I were to be using West epoxy for reinforcing an impact or high wear area of a stock,  the breech recoil area as you are, around bolts, or internally to reinforce the barrel pin holes, I would choose another filler.  I have used glass cloth fibres made by trimming or scraping the glass cloth in preference to the chopped or milled fibre filler, but any is better than the glass powder.

Offline Dphariss

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 9928
  • Kill a Commie for your Mommy
Re: Question pertaining to tang bedding.
« Reply #8 on: April 25, 2010, 04:31:08 PM »
I would pean with a crosspean to stretch the tang then file to shape as needed. Do most of the hammering on the bottom of the tang.
If this thins the tang too much then glue a shim under the tang to bring it to the proper level.
Dan
He who dares not offend cannot be honest. Thomas Paine

Offline Rolf

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1766
  • There's more than one way to skin a cat.
Re: Question pertaining to tang bedding.
« Reply #9 on: April 25, 2010, 04:47:37 PM »
Sigh, I guess I'll do an old fashion repair with a wood shim. I was sorely tempted to do a modern quick fix with epoxy.

Best regards

Rolfkt

Offline Mike Brooks

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 13415
    • Mike Brooks Gunmaker
Re: Question pertaining to tang bedding.
« Reply #10 on: April 25, 2010, 07:37:53 PM »
I'd do nothing at all as it won't make any difference.
NEW WEBSITE! www.mikebrooksflintlocks.com
Say, any of you boys smithies? Or, if not smithies per se, were you otherwise trained in the metallurgic arts before straitened circumstances forced you into a life of aimless wanderin'?

Offline Jerry V Lape

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3030
Re: Question pertaining to tang bedding.
« Reply #11 on: April 25, 2010, 07:48:20 PM »
Rolfkt, what are you sighing about.  It should take you less time and less risk to repair it with the wood splice than the other ways.  About 15 minutes to clean up the current inlet so you get a good bond surface.  About 5 minutes to slice a little wood chip to fit and glue in place.  Then tomorrow, if you were close to the correct thickness on the chip, maybe 15 minutes to get the inlet correct. 

Offline Cody Tetachuk

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 237
Re: Question pertaining to tang bedding.
« Reply #12 on: April 26, 2010, 05:05:59 PM »
I'd do nothing at all as it won't make any difference.

X2

Offline D. Taylor Sapergia

  • Member 3
  • Hero Member
  • *
  • Posts: 12693
Re: Question pertaining to tang bedding.
« Reply #13 on: April 26, 2010, 07:40:27 PM »
Clearance behind the lug does not matter.  The breech end of the barrel against the vertical end of the barrel channel is what's important.  Contact of the back of the lug is not worth worrying about.  I know from following all your other building posts where you are coming from...it's not perfect, so I'll have to scrap it and start again.  You need to relax a little doc.  This kind of surgery isn't going to leave a scar.
D. Taylor Sapergia
www.sapergia.blogspot.com

Art is not an object.  It is the excitement inspired by the object.

dannybb55

  • Guest
Re: Question pertaining to tang bedding.
« Reply #14 on: April 27, 2010, 04:38:12 AM »
Let me put my tupence in on epoxy. I work for an antique wooden yacht restoration company as a carpenter. We use gallons of the stuff. This is how we do it:
 1) Always wipe down both surfaces with Denatured alcohol.
 2) Put a thin coat of resin and hardener, well mixt to the manufacturer's ratio and specs, on each faying surface.
 3) Mix the rest of the resin with a filler. We use a product called Garamite. It is clay derived and will not cause lung problems like Cabisil or other silica based thixogens. Mix it as thick as peanut butter and apply as thin a coat as will fill the gap. Epoxy holds best with a 16th in gap.
 4) Don't forget the edges of the joint, You want good squeeze out all of the way around.
 5) Once the clamps are on snug, not tight, clean the squeeze out with denatured alcohol. Acetone will work but it takes the polymers to your liver.
 6) Epoxy completely cured after 24 hours so wait until the next day for the next step.
 7) White vinegar destroys the polymer bonds of epoxy and is the best way to clean tools and hands but don't get it on the joint.

 All this being said I would glue a thin sliver of wood back on with Zap-a-gap with such a small piece of work. That is what we do when some varnish work gets damaged. Tight bond works well too.
                                                       Danny
 www.woodenboatrepair.com