What size ramrod ?

[Pete G.]

Started ordering a few parts and making drawings for a Valley of Virginia gun. The later guns used smaller calibers so I decide to go witha 40 since I never built that particular size before.
Suddenly it occurred to me while ordering a jag, that I hadn't decided on a rr size. Is 3/8" too large or should I go with a 5/16"? If 5/16" , can they be safely tapered?

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

Pete, 

I like the idea of drilling  RR hole for a 5/16 entry thimble and a 15/16 middle and maybe a 3/8 front thimble and start with a 3/8 RR blank and taper down to 5/16(-).  It will help make the gun slim and should fit your bore nicely.

[California Kid]

What Tim says. Tapered rod with 3/8" first pipe.

[northmn]

My 40 has a straight 5/16 rod and has caused no problem.  You may also go that route.  3/8 all the way is a little large for a 40 and adds to the bulk of the build.  There is not a lot of clearance with a 375 rod going into a 410 barrel but it will work.  When you use a wooded rod you should always choke up on them with short stokes when you start the ball.

DP

[roundball]

When you use a wooded rod you should always choke up on them with short stokes when you start the ball.

Biggest surprise I experienced when switching to my first full stock longrifle was the tapered ramrod.  After a couple decades of T/C Hawkens with T/C and GM barrels which all had straight diameter ramrods and thimbles, the discovery was something I had to deal with.

[Birddog6]

That all depends on the barrel size.  If it is a A weight barrel a 3/8 is too large looking for me, same with a 13/16" barrel.  However if it is a larger barrel like a C or a 15/16" barrel, the 3/8" one will be very fitting because it is a larger barrel.
 Altho tapering the RR was quite common on originals, I don't like them & would not do one unless I absolutely had to, and would not think of tapering a 5/16" ramrod.  But that is just me & lots of guys taper them...

[northmn]

I use tapered rods depending.  A 40 using a 5/16 has a fairly strong straight rod for its caliber.  I am not knocking Tim's suggestion, but like to sometimes take an easier way out on the assecories.  On a 20 bore I am making I use 7/16 inch thimbles but drill a 3/8 hole and taper the rod to fit that last 12 inches or so in the stock.  Would do the same for a 58 or 54 rifle as that leaves a possibility for a trimmer looking firearm and still using a stronger rod.  The ball seems to seat easier as it goes further down the barrel.

DP   

[roundball]

Since I'll never be confused as an "HC" Flintlock shooter...and with my penchant for strong reliable ramrods...particularly if out for a day hunting...I've always been partial to brass rods....strong, blends in fine with brass furniture that I use, etc.  So as not to noticeably change the muzzle weight I use the strong tubular brass rods custom made by October Country.

But, for a tapered rod, since a 3/8" tubular rod can't be tapered down to 5/16", I had OC make the rods in two sections:
A normal 3/8" tubular brass rod just long enough for the end to disappear into the mouth of the entry pipe;
A section of 3/8" solid brass rod material for the remaining length, tapered from just below the joint to 5/16" at the end.  (sections are joined with an expoxied 10/32" piece of threaded steel)

They work perfectly and I don't have to worry about a wooden rod folding up on me if I get too aggressive when reloading in the field.  (Note the rod in the Virginia in the bucks photo below)

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

I use tapered rods depending.  A 40 using a 5/16 has a fairly strong straight rod for its caliber.  I am not knocking Tim's suggestion, but like to sometimes take an easier way out on the accessories.  On a 20 bore I am making I use 7/16 inch thimbles but drill a 3/8 hole and taper the rod to fit that last 12 inches or so in the stock. Would do the same for a 58 or 54 rifle as that leaves a possibility for a trimmer looking firearm and still using a stronger rod. The ball seems to seat easier as it goes further down the barrel.

DP  

That's the same notion I am suggesting for the .40. I have done the same as you. Even tapered down to a 5/16 tip on a .54 I have never had any problem with breaking. I have even pulled several balls with it at the end of unfruitful days of hunting. On the .58 I am building I will start with a1/2" blank and taper to fit the 3/8 hole... I actually will take the big end down to because I will put a flared horn tip on the loading end of the rod...English, you know.

[northmn]

I like to taper a little more in some cases to install a rod tip for accessories that fits in the ramrod hole.  Muzzle Loaders Builders Supply sells a nice 4 ich extension made out of solid brass that can be screwed into a tip and kept in the possibles pouch and used for cleaning out in the field and still give one a good grip on the rod.  Field use is the only time I use the ramrod in the gun anyway as I have a very nice solid brass rod for cleaning and loading in the garage.  The end tip, which I use to drive the ball down with can have a variety of tips for that purpose.  I usually only taper the part that fits in the ramrod hole because basically I can get lazy on some of the finer points.

DP

[bgf]

5/16's looks a lot better than 3/8's; most of the older rifles don't have heavy rods.  I hardly use the rifle rr, anyway, but I bought a 5/16's synthetic for carrying on the rifle away from the range.  Otherwise, the 5/16 wood rr is there for looks, although I have used it a couple of times just to make sure it works and am interested in finding a nice short range load that will load reliably with nothing but the rifle rr, i.e., no short starter and no range rod, as I feel that is almost certainly how the old timers would have done it when afield.

[northmn]

Another little point on ramrod sizes.  When I drill the ramrod hole I use a drill bit 1/64 larger than the ramrod size.  This permits a little less sanding on ramrods and use of tips.  Use of no short starter and the loading with the ramrod alone requires a very good crown, many use a coning tool to make a crown that permits this.  You also need to make sure you grab the rod very close or they can break easily.  Loads not using a short starter will not win any bench matches.

DP

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

But they sure will harvest deer!!