Leghivalley Lube Original

[dickert54cal]

Im not sure if I spelled it right --but you all know of that which I am speaking---Im on my very last 12oz or so and wonder did it ever get made under a new name??

[cahil_2]

It is made under the name of Shenandoah Valley Lube.  If you would like the name of an individual who can get it for you let me know.

[dickert54cal]

I had a gut feeling when I saw that listed it might just be the stuff. I live in South Easter PA so I should be able to get it pretty easily!  THANKS A BUNCH!  I know what to ask my wife for for my birthday!

[California Kid]

I don't think it is the same formula. Maybe Daryl knows.

[mainiac]

Isnt the same color,nor the same smell,,but it work almost the same way.
Almost as good as the original......

[dickert54cal]

Well I have no conclusive answer yet----Ill place a phone call tomorrow if I get a chance.....Hey you Canadians where are you when I need you???  Hope you all make Dixons this summer!

[billd]

I feel it shoots as good as the original but the rust protection properties are lacking.

Bill

[Daryl]

If it shoots well, I'd use it, however for trail walks and testing only, not for hunting.  The Mink Oil and Neetsfoot oil get the hunting use with me.

The only thing I have against the use of the really slippery lubes, is the requirement for increased powder charges to maintain accuracy.  My .40 loves the stiff - LHV- but needed 65gr. 3f or 75gr. of 2F to give it's best accuracy with it.  The .45 cal rifle was 75gr. 3f and 85gr. 2F. Both rifles shoot 55gr. of 3f quite well, with a water/alcohol based lube- but that charge with the slippery oil lubes, shoots nasty-horrible - 2 to 2 1/2" at 50 yards . That is a far cry from the 1/2" the slippery oils give with their favourite powder charges.

[dickert54cal]

Daryl-----I must concurr the stuff is very slippery and the patches are usually soaking wet.  I however got better accuracy when using them. I wanted to try the Neatsfoot Oil but every time I go to my sporting goods store they never seem to have it in---the stuff these kids put on their ball gloves today feels like LHV! The mink oil I keep on hand. How does it work by itself as a lube?

[Daryl]

I have no idea what the kids these days put on their golves.  If is says Neetsfoot Oil, then that's what it is.  If it says Mink Oil, then that might be what it is.

I use either Neetsfoot Oil or Mink Oil for hunting- I said that already.


I mix a bit of Neetsfoot Oil in with the water/alcohol (WWWFluid) I use for lube for trail walk. It shoots almost as well as LHV(within 3/8"$@ 50 yds)), with with 15 to 20gr. less powder so that's what I use.

 If I could buy LHV today, I'd be using it. I was paying Track something like $7.95 per bottle + shipping and was OK with that.  It is good lube for trail walks, BUT requires more powder, so it is more expensive to shoot - across the board.

If Shenendoa Valley Lube is similar - I may try it - if I could find a supplier close by - glass bottles, not plastic - I will not ship it.  I know one of the retailers had some at Hefley last fall, but I didn't feel like paying $10 to $12 for it - whatever his price was - it was probably too high.

[Canute Rex]

I tried out Shenandoah Valley Lube and still have some. I posted a brief report on it a while back: http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=3934.0

There were some good responses about the chemistry of various lubes, including LVL.

It works fine, though kind of pricey. I still use it periodically, but right now I am trying a mix of rubbing alcohol, water, and neatsfoot oil. (I prefer exposing myself to isopropyl alcohol rather than the methanol in WW fluid.)

Next time I go out back to shoot I'm going to try hand sanitizer. I keep a bottle in my truck during flu season and it never freezes. One day I was using it and thought, "Hmm, slippery, slightly gooey, and flows at 10 degrees F; patch lube?" When one has the black powder sickness, thoughts always stray in this direction.

It's basically water, alcohol, glycerin, and a few "alphabet soup" ingredients to make it gelatinous. I'll report back on it.

[dickert54cal]

I might just have to try the mink and Neatsfoot oils----as for the hand sanatizer let me know if it leaves the barrel in a ball of flames---Ive heard it ignites???Never played with it but could be fun! 

[Daryl]

I would do a PH test on the sanitizer before putting it in my barrel.

PH test strips should be a part of everyone's testing procedures when making up their own concoctions. They are available at pharmacies.

[Canute Rex]

Good point, Daryl. I have some ph test strips. I assume I should be looking for neutral to slightly acidic, but please correct me if I'm wrong.

[Daryl]

I would think neutral would be best - non acidic and non corrosive. That's about 72 isn't it - or .72 or 7.2 or something like that.  I'm not a chemist, nor did I take chemistry in school -  I don't even know what a chemist looks like.