Author Topic: welding on a lockplate  (Read 3656 times)

SuperCracker

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welding on a lockplate
« on: June 22, 2010, 07:48:02 PM »
ok guys, I know it's not specifically a longrifle, but still relevant to building in general. I just got my CVA 12ga SxS kit and gonna start building it real soon.

One of the things on my list of things to learn how to do is engraving........sometime in the near future.

The existing tang and locks have that line engraving on them that I'm not crazy about. What I was thinking is that I could TIG a small bead along the line engraving and then file it all back smooth. In preparation for future engraving. So I would have all smooth locks and tang.

Is there any reason why I could not or should not do this? Are these parts usually hardened?

And, by some miracle, would any of you know what filler rod I should use so that it will blue/brown evenly?

Offline Roger Fisher

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Re: welding on a lockplate
« Reply #1 on: June 22, 2010, 08:47:20 PM »
Only thinking out loud; but if she were mine I would let that cast in engraving alone on the lock plates since only your neighbors on the shooting line will notice those 'lines but you will seldom take notice of them.

The lines on your tang probably are not too deep and since you notice them more than the lock how about draw filing them off the tang finely now... ???

Offline David Rase

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Re: welding on a lockplate
« Reply #2 on: June 23, 2010, 03:07:49 AM »
I am going to go out on a limb and agree with Roger on this one.  Most cast in engraving is shallow enough that you can file it off and not effect the casting at all.  It either needs to be filed off or chased.  I am in the process of building a Queen Anne screw barrel carbine.  The castings are from TRS.  I built a pistol several years ago from the exact same castings and filed all the cast in engraing off.  I will do the same with this project as it is to be a companion piece to the pistol.
DMR

Offline Dphariss

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Re: welding on a lockplate
« Reply #3 on: June 24, 2010, 04:40:34 AM »
ok guys, I know it's not specifically a longrifle, but still relevant to building in general. I just got my CVA 12ga SxS kit and gonna start building it real soon.

One of the things on my list of things to learn how to do is engraving........sometime in the near future.

The existing tang and locks have that line engraving on them that I'm not crazy about. What I was thinking is that I could TIG a small bead along the line engraving and then file it all back smooth. In preparation for future engraving. So I would have all smooth locks and tang.

Is there any reason why I could not or should not do this? Are these parts usually hardened?

And, by some miracle, would any of you know what filler rod I should use so that it will blue/brown evenly?


Tig at your own risk. You could end up with spots that are so hard they will cut grooves in a file.
I would just file it off if I could not stand having on the gun.

Dan
He who dares not offend cannot be honest. Thomas Paine

Offline Captchee

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Re: welding on a lockplate
« Reply #4 on: June 25, 2010, 03:58:09 PM »
 Couple things if I may .

I would start looking at period  muzzle loading SXS. Pay particular attention to the transitions from Lock mortises ,  both  as the come off the wrist and climb to the tang .
Add on to that the diameter of the wrists . Lines of the comb  and  flow of the forearm

 In doing so , your going to see that   you can remove a lot of wood  from your CVA stock . The reason I mention  this is once you file the lock plates  and tang down  they will most likely set to low in the wood .  Unless of course the cast engraving is very shallow , like the others have mentioned .

 For the most part the lock plates and tang will be soft enough to file .  In fact most times they are so soft that the plates can easily be warped  by simply over tightening the  screws . IMO about like mild steel .
Myself I would simply file off  the cast engraving and then stone  the plates so you can  engrave .

 Now there are acceptations.  On some  pieces ,the  cast engraving  is very deep . Very near that  seen on some TC’s . if that’s the case then  keep in mind thinning the lock plate   to the point the castings are removed , will  make the plate weaker then it already is .
So you some judgment there .

 
 Now I know you didn’t mention the barrels . But you may be thinking about doing some engraving on them as well .
 So ill mention this as well .
 For the most part  most folks hold the opinion that the barrels will be rather soft . don’t bet  you pay check on that . While I have worked on some that  the barrels did   feel soft while engraving , thus cut like butter . I also have worked on some that  were  un believably hard . So hard in fact  that even my cobalt  gravers  struggled .

Anyway , back to your question .
Another thing to keep in mind is that when working on CVA’s  you never know what your going  to have to consider .
CVA made 2 types of SXS . A field grade and a so called presentation grade . The only real difference I have been able to see is in the  amount of engraving on the locks and tang .
 Field grade has  very little while the presentation grade has a hunting  depiction  with more relief
Another thing  would be concerning the tang itself  . Most times the edges of the tang are strait down . There will be no  under bevel .
 However other times  the tang will  have a bevel . But in both cases the inletting is machine done . As such the  inlet walls are strait down and do not match the under bevel  of the tang .
So look closely  because if your inlet is tight now  and your tang  has that under bevel .
Filing  the engraving off of the tang can  open up the  inlet.
 so look closly at what you have and then go from there .