Ready to carve Chamber's kit

[DrRed]

I've been reading this forum for months and finally have something to post. I love this forum. Partly from advice read here I attended Jim Chambers rifle building class the end of May and I came home with this:





It's 45 cal York Chambers kit. I had a great time at the class and it's an outstanding way to learn to build a rifle.

I'm almost ready to carve after 6 months of practice carving, reading, and watching any DVD I could get my hands on. I'm starting from the muzzle back and pretty much finished the forestock moulding.
I would like critiques of my drawings before I cut wood as to layout and appropriateness of my drawings.
I'm not too sure about the transition from forestock moulding to rear pipe design.

Any other comments and suggestions would be appreciated. I don't want to ruin what could potentially be a nice rifle with a bad carving.















I'll try the buttstock next.

Thanks,

Bob

[sz]

I see nothing to criticize.  It look "good to go".
Please share when you have it done.

[Mike Brooks]

The only thing that needs attention is the transition from the beavertail to the lock molding, too abrupt.

[flintriflesmith]

Before you do the carving around the lock mortise and barrel tang you might want to reconsider the shaping in that immediate area. To my eye the flat around the lock is too wide.
Since you took Jim's class  and he is familiar with this rifle, you might want to ask his opinion.
Gary

[DrRed]

Thanks for the replies. Mike, I redrew the beavertail making the waist longer and narrower. I think that is what you had in mind. Is that enough or still more?

[Mike Brooks]

Looks right to me.

[Lucky R A]

    At the entry thimble Schroyer used a bit more of an indent back from the rear decorative rings on the thimble.  It gave the illusion of a swell similar to that of a Bess, but ofcourse much smaller...

[smylee grouch]

From were I sit, Mr. Schreyer would say ok.      Gary

[Rolf]

I'm just a novice at this. The biggest challenge I have drawing carvings is getting smooth flowing lines without flat spots and bumps. The next challenge is getting both side symmetrical.

I like your new beaver tail. It's nice and symmetrical. If you look at the point of the sideplate, it looks like you have a slight bump on the moldings. Looking at the third picture in your first post, there is a flat spot on the front of the lockplate molding.
The corner of the wood block in the vice points to it. Otherwise I think it looks good.

Best regards
Rolfkt

[Birddog6]

That beavertail on the lock looks better, but the flats above & below the lock are still too wide, IMHO.  The thinner that part of the lock is the slimmer the rifle looks.   You drawings for the carvings look good & the molding looks good as well.   

When you get it where ya want it, take a piece of white paper & lay over the lock inlet, then take a piece or aluminun tube  or exacto knife handle or pencil, & rub over the edge of the lock panel. This will mark the paper. Cut it out & lay it on the sideplate panel & check your dimensions there to insure they are close to the same.

Keith Lisle

[bdixon]

Good job Doc.  I will send you some pics of the cherry little fella I put together at the class also, I left it pretty plain the way the wife wanted it, could be fired in a few weeks if I finish up a few details.  Glad you are on the site, I lean on these guys a lot for advice.


Brett.

[JTR]

The other guys have already mentioned to too wide lock moldings,, so I'll skip that.

I agree with Lucky RA regarding the forearm transition at the rear RR thimble in that you need a bit more definition here.

Also, how much wood did you leave on the sides of the forearm, from the lock area to the rear RR pipe?
The forward part of the forearm seems to have a lot of taper ahead of the rear RR pipe, so I wonder if the rear part of the forearm isn't too thick/wide.

John

[tbailey]

Hey DrRed.

this is great i really like your drawing, do you think you could show the carving process with photos.


Thanks Tbailey

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

Very nice gun you have cooking there!!  Aside from the other suggestions, if it were mine I would take more wood of the forestock..particularly the lower forestock ..it looks heavy... also I would bring the top edge of the forestock to 1/16' or 3/32" lower on the side of the barrel...... But hey, I like long skinny guns!!

[Mike Brooks]

Wow, you guys are a tough bunch!

[DrRed]

Thanks guys! This is what I want  being my first real rifle. I built a Dixie TN rifle 20 yrs ago from a kit. It's ugly but shoots good.

Here is the lock after I took what I thought was a lot off the moulding. Probably not enough still but I'm being real cautious taking off wood.



Looking down on the lower forestock I agree it's a little fat, more by the rear thimble than by the lock.



I will take off some wood. Here is a better picture of the upper forestock showing 1/2 barrell flat. Maybe I could lower that some but not much?



I am having trouble being creative with the transition from moulding to rear thimble. I understand what was said but sketches or photos would help.

I'm having a great time with this!

Thanks everyone for the help and advice.

Bob

[flintriflesmith]

That lock panal looks a lot better to my eye.

 Gary

[omark]

just a personal opinion, but i think making the beavertails at the lock panels would look better to me if they were a little more eliptical, not quite so round. but dont take my word for it, i have actually handled very few originals. overall id say youre doing real good. mark

[cheyenne]

It looks reall nice and I envy you........FWIW, I think making the tails on the lock panels eliptical will add to the slim lines of the rifle. But, I'm really wanting to see the build go forward as the carving is a big deal to me as I'm still in practise mode and like to see others work, especially while in progress as it helps me a lot. This will be a really nice looking rifle! 

[DrRed]

I agree about the beavertail. It will be more eliptical. Thanks for the encouragement, I'll send pictures of the progress.
Carving is a big step for me and somewhat intimidating.

Bob

[Birddog6]

Lock panels look Much better.  Now do the same to the beavertails & you are good to go........   

Keith Lisle

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

If you bring the top edge of the forestock to a line 1/16"  below the midpoint of the barrel, you will be amazed at how much slimmer it will make the rifle look.......Maybe someone else knows how much barrel was ezxposed on the original they saw....The lock panel is looking good!!  Nice work  I really like your ramrod groove molding and the amount of rr showing!!

Do you think the lower forestock is still a little fat on the bottom when viewed from the side??  Obviouslty these are your call and I am just looking at photos, not the real gun..

Keep it up!

[Don Getz]

Bob....if you haven't started to carve it yet, give some thought to the moulding around the front of the lock panel.  If it
were mine, I would lengthen them some and make the radius smaller as it goes out the forestock, instead of having an
almost perfectly round moulding.....make it more egg shaped.   Does that make any sense to anyone else?    Don