Author Topic: Making set triggers from Ken's tutorial (Read 8624 times)

FG1 · « **on:** July 01, 2010, 12:31:50 AM »

Im having a go at a set of single stage double set triggers using Kens tutorial and tracings he sent to me .
The steel Im using is 1095 annealed 1/8"x 4" sheet . Even being annealed its pretty tough on Simmons hacksaw blades , took two blades to cut parts out !
So far I have the trigger plate roughed to shape, drilled and slotted , trigger parts are filed close to dimention.
I didnt have any 1/4"x 3/8" squarestock and used 3/8" that I had and only 6" of it at that.

Jim Kibler · « **Reply #1 on:** July 01, 2010, 04:37:35 AM »

Looking good Jim. Keep us posted as you make progress.

B. Hey · « **Reply #2 on:** July 01, 2010, 04:43:31 AM »

Thanks for sharing, Jim. Keep us posted and good luck ... Bill Hey

Ken G · « **Reply #3 on:** July 01, 2010, 04:44:54 AM »

Once you have the trigger plate its all downhill from there. They are looking great

FG1 · « **Reply #4 on:** July 01, 2010, 04:58:19 AM »

For the long return spring for trigger I have some bandsaw blade from a woodmiser sawmill that makes good springs . Ive been thinning it and using it for patchbox springs and it tempers good usinig Bookies methods.

R.W.D. · « **Reply #5 on:** July 01, 2010, 05:11:02 AM »

I made the triggers for my my build using Ken's instructions. I had already bought the set triggers and just made new triggers themselves and used the other components. I think they turned out great and I will never buy set triggers again. Thanks for the tutorial Ken.

Ken G · « **Reply #6 on:** July 01, 2010, 05:25:16 AM »

I'm glad to hear someone is using the information. The real credit should go to Bookie who took the time to teach me. It's a nice feeling of accomplishment the first time you trip that front trigger and feel the thump in your hand.
Ken

smylee grouch · « **Reply #7 on:** July 01, 2010, 05:49:40 AM »

Do you use the spring stock to make the trigger plate also? Would hot rolled steel be ok for the plate ? Gary

Ken G · « **Reply #8 on:** July 01, 2010, 06:02:10 AM »

Gary,
Unless you have a mill or you are going to forge shape the plate you want to use mild steel. Removeing the material from the trigger plate is a pain. I use whatever I can find that's about the right size. Anneal if it is hard. The easiest way is to forge it to shape though.
Cheers,
Ken

R.W.D. · « **Reply #9 on:** July 01, 2010, 06:48:35 AM »

Trying to hog off that extra steel can be a pain. Use the hacksaw as much as you can. I treat it much like cutting a notch in a 2x4. Make a bunch of cuts then knock it out with a hammer and chisel. Then it's time to break out the files. You would be surprised at how fast it goes. But then again I enjoy using a good sharp file.

FG1 · « **Reply #10 on:** July 01, 2010, 07:09:10 AM »

I cheated on the plate . I used my little mini mill to remove the excess and slot .

smylee grouch · « **Reply #11 on:** July 01, 2010, 09:05:35 PM »

Thanks Ken, I was hoping you would say that. I thought about using a 1/4 inch mill cutter chucked up in the drill press to remove SOME of the exses steel and using hot rolled would make it work better for me and then finnish up with a file. Gary

Steve Bookout · « **Reply #12 on:** July 02, 2010, 06:13:49 AM »

I find it most satisfying to see folks make their own triggers and find out just how easy it actually is. Time consuming, yes, but still easy. Ken, you done good. FG1, keep up the good work!! Cheers, Bookie

FG1 · « **Reply #13 on:** July 03, 2010, 05:43:18 AM »

Ive got them assembled now but havent heat treated anything yet . Still working on the angles of engagement they arent staying set reliably yet , but I'll get it !

chuck c. · « **Reply #14 on:** July 03, 2010, 07:53:28 AM »

Keep at it, I had the same problem with the first four sets I made. They would go off if I pushed forward on the rear trigger. I didn't really trust them to be safe although they functioned fine. I brought a set of Davis single throw triggers and pretty much used them as a guide. This really helped me to finally get a set made that I felt was safe and that I liked the looks of. Go real slow the closer you get to the end, even the final polishing can remove more metal than you might want. To me it's better to polish them up good just before you get your final fit.

FG1 · « **Reply #15 on:** July 04, 2010, 02:51:49 AM »

Well got em workin with help of an email ! Thanks Dan ! I redrilled axis pin of front trigger and repinned it . I'll plug the original holes and file flush. Springs are tempered and drawn back as in Bookies tutorial which works great !
I still need to pretty them up and add engagement screw between triggers then heat treat triggers themselves.
1st pic is Northstar single stage on left and mine on right.

This pic is mine and the templates . Thanks Ken !!

Bill of the 45th · « **Reply #16 on:** July 04, 2010, 03:25:05 AM »

Great Job FG1. Got to get back to the set I started over a year ago, and then got on another project. Gotta get focused and minimize he number of project I have going.

Bill

Steve Bookout · « **Reply #17 on:** July 05, 2010, 02:49:52 AM »

Looks pretty dern good to me! Congratulations are in order. Cheers, Bookie

FG1 · « **Reply #18 on:** July 05, 2010, 04:32:17 AM »

Thanks fellas ! Bookie you made your spring tempering tutorial even I can do it with good results !

David Veith · « **Reply #19 on:** July 05, 2010, 04:39:18 PM »

First great job. Now how about a link to the tutorial. Seeing I am not seeing it.
David Veith

Bill of the 45th · « **Reply #20 on:** July 05, 2010, 05:02:45 PM »

David, go to the bottom of page two of the tutorial section, it's second from the bottom.

Bill

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Author Topic: Making set triggers from Ken's tutorial (Read 8624 times)

FG1

FG1

R.W.D.

R.W.D.

FG1

FG1

chuck c.

FG1

FG1