Author Topic: Lock inletting  (Read 3696 times)

Offline Dennis Glazener

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Lock inletting
« on: July 11, 2010, 11:12:59 PM »
I did something yesterday that I never thought I would do, inlet for a lock without disassembly of the lock. It was a modified late Ketland that had the foot (?) hole for the mainspring moved slightly. The "foot" of the mainspring was tight in the hole and would not come out. I didn't want to drive it out with a punch and risk knocking it loose from the main spring vise that I was using. So I decided to try the Mark Silver method of inleting without taking the lock apart. I was scared of not getting it positioned correctly but it wasn't as hard as I expected. I think I will do the next lock the same way, watch me screw that one up!
Dennis
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FG1

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Re: Lock inletting
« Reply #1 on: July 11, 2010, 11:30:46 PM »
Dennis could you elaborate how you went about inletting without disassembling the lock ?

Offline Mark Elliott

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Re: Lock inletting
« Reply #2 on: July 11, 2010, 11:45:15 PM »
I tried that a rifle or two back after Wallace Gusler kept giving me a hard time about all the drilling I was doing to inlet a lock by parts.   He said he never took a lock apart again once he finished it and inlet it assembled.  I really thought that he was kidding, but I decided to give it a go and it actually worked out better; quicker and better fit.   I mentioned it to Mark Silver and he said that he had started to do that some time ago.   It would seem that it is fairly common for experienced builders to do it that way. 

Mark E.
   

Offline Mark Elliott

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Re: Lock inletting
« Reply #3 on: July 12, 2010, 12:09:41 AM »
FG1,

To answer your question,  your hands and eyesight need to be pretty good and mine aren't necessarily the best but I manage.   You have to locate the position of the sear arm first.   You do this by holding the lock in position above the stock.  You need to hold the lock parallel to the stock surface and look straight down on it to make sure the orientation relative to the touch hole, web, and wrist is correct.   One you have it right, mark where the sear arm touches the stock.  Some folk give the lock a good whack with a mallet over the sear arm, or  you could just use a pencil to mark the location.   If you use a pencil, then you must make sure that you mark around the bottom of the sear arm.   It is essential that you get the location of the sear arm on the stock correct.   There is a little be of latitude after you drill the hole, but not much.   

Next, you drill a 1/4" hole into the stock where the bottom of the hole touches the bottom of the mark for the sear arm.  Double check to make sure that the hole you drill is fully within the lockplate once inlet.   Also,  make sure you drill the hole to it's full depth once the lock is fully inlet.  Usually this will be a little more than halfway through the stock.   

Once you have this hole drilled in the proper location, the rest is pretty easy.  You just keep removing wood that touches the lock until it is in place.   You will use a lot of marking compound.  I use magic markers.    You are going to have to use measurement and  experience to remove most of the wood before close fitting is necessary.   Once you have the lock in enough to mark screw locations,  I suggest that you drill holes for them to the finished depth.   They form reference marks.   The same can go for the mainspring.   

Mark E.

Offline Dennis Glazener

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Re: Lock inletting
« Reply #4 on: July 12, 2010, 02:46:42 AM »
Mark covered it well.

I thought about cheating a little by making a copy of a TOW's late Ketland but mine had been modified and was not the same lock plate. Plus you really need a left handed image to be able to see the the sear bar to position it correctly.

Dennis


"I never considered a difference of opinion in politics, in religion, in philosophy, as cause for withdrawing from a friend" - Thomas Jefferson

FG1

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Re: Lock inletting
« Reply #5 on: July 12, 2010, 04:04:45 AM »
Thanks Mark ! I think I will try it .