Early English Lock Disassembly

[Pete G.]

What is the proper disassembly procedure for an early English round faced lock? The sear spring screw is hidden beneath the bridal and that necessitates removing the sear screw while under tension. I used a set of needle nosed pliers as sort of a spring vise for the sear spring, but that doesn't really seem to be a very good method. I can forsee reassembly being a problem using this method. Is there a trick I don't know about?

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

I just remove the front bridle screw and then loosen the sear screw enough to slide the bridle down enough to get a skinny screwdriver to the sear spring screw, loosen it and then pop the little lug out of the plate to remove the tension. You can replace it with finger tension. Its not very strong.

[J.D.]

I cut the @%$#$%^&$$%$#^ extension off of the bridle. It only serves a cosmetic function, so it won't hurt to remove the little PITA.

God bless

[frogwalking]

I did what JD said.   

[AndyThomas]

No, No! If you cut the whole extension off, the lock maker will be offended!

All you really need to remove is that curl at the end of the extension. Make the extension pointed. A lot of old locks have pointed extensions. This will give you just enough room for a small screwdriver to tighten and loosen the screw. You'll have to install the spring loosely before the bridle and sear, then snap the spring in place and tighten the screw. Easier to install/remove and PC too.

[frogwalking]

I actuallty asked Jim Chambers how to do this when I first got the lock.  He had a perfectly reasonale and workable way to disasseble and then reassemble the lock without mofifying anything.

I just forgot what it was.

Ask him.

[heinz]

I put the sear spring screw and the sear spring in place, locking the sear spring into the slot before assembling the tumbler and bridal.  I screw the front bridal spring in using the sear screw only as a guide for alignment.  I then remove the sear screw put the sear in place, push it up against the sear spring while pushing down on the sear screw, and screw the sear screw into place.  You can do it with only two hands provide you are good with a foot.  This works well enough and does not overstress the sear spring.   BUT it does let you know why the design changed 

[J.D.]

I actuallty asked Jim Chambers how to do this when I first got the lock.  He had a perfectly reasonale and workable way to disasseble and then reassemble the lock without mofifying anything.

I just forgot what it was.

Ask him.

  Yeah, me too. 

[Lucky R A]

You put the sear spring in place first, then push the sear up into place and turn the sear screw in.  Simple

[Pete G.]

You put the sear spring in place first, then push the sear up into place and turn the sear screw in.  Simple

Not quite so simple on this lock. The sear spring is about equivalent to an overload spring on a truck. I need to work it down anyway because trigger pull is bad, even with the correct geometry. I hate cast springs, but better too strong than too weak.

[rallen]

When you see how it's done, It all makes simple sense so you don't have to alter anything.
Unscrew the sear screw so It's still in the threads, but sits very high.  Completely remove the top bridle screw. Lift the bridle up off the tumbler so you can pivot it on the sear screw towards the sear, exposing the sear spring screw. 
For assembly it's just the reverse, you install the sear, bridle and sear screw.  Install the sear spring with the screw loose. Slip the sear sping into the notch. Tighten. Pivot the bridle onto the tumbler. Install the top bridle screw and tighten the sear screw.
When you try it, it all comes together.
Ryan

[Pete G.]

Thank you. That's the answer I was looking for. I do realize that some of the things on this lock are for cosmetic purposes, but if not for cosmetics we could all just use a large Siler and let it go at that. I knew that there must be a technique that was eluding me.