Author Topic: Triggerguard Update PICS  (Read 4891 times)

LURCHWV@BJS

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Triggerguard Update PICS
« on: August 28, 2010, 04:04:44 AM »
As many may remember , I had a thread about the placement of thr Triggerguard.  As I found out my biggest problem was the placement of the lugs.
   So since I have no way to silver solder these I had an Idea for tap&die. Here are the results.






   Rich

Offline Acer Saccharum

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Re: Triggerguard Update PICS
« Reply #1 on: August 28, 2010, 05:04:54 AM »
Hey, cool fix. Some lock-tite will give some added stability, because that lug may want to turn when you're trying to tap the pin thru the lug.

Good job.

Tom
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LURCHWV@BJS

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Re: Triggerguard Update PICS
« Reply #2 on: August 28, 2010, 07:14:26 PM »
  I am beginning to think I may need glasses... Those pic looked nice and crisp when I took them.

        Rick

Birddog6

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Re: Triggerguard Update PICS
« Reply #3 on: August 29, 2010, 12:39:09 AM »
Most of the time when that happens to me, I was trying to take the photo too close. I can't get used to the camera shutters today being so fast so many pixels & etc., you can take them 2' away & they come out beautiful. Then just resize & you have a beaut of a close up.   ;)

One time at the CLA show I had a new camera & every photo I had was blurred, cause I was too close with the new camera & didn't need to be, I found out that night when I looked at them. Good thing I brought the old camera & could go back & retake them the next day.  Then did some experimenting with the new camera, etc.

By the way, they do make silver solders that you solder with MAPP gas & you can buy a MAPP gas torch & bottles at Lowes, Home Depot,  some Wal-Marts & some K-Marts. You may want to check them out as this will come up again on the soldering......

Keith Lisle

Offline LRB

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Re: Triggerguard Update PICS
« Reply #4 on: August 29, 2010, 01:57:39 PM »
  You could easily braze that project with Brownell's Silvaloy and propane, using a Mapp torch head. More than enough heat. The Mapp torches put out a lot of heat without having to use the Mapp gas.

msw

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Re: Triggerguard Update PICS
« Reply #5 on: August 29, 2010, 06:09:47 PM »
Kudos to you!  That's a very clever bit of work!

Online B.Habermehl

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Re: Triggerguard Update PICS
« Reply #6 on: August 30, 2010, 04:34:59 AM »
Nicely done, If it were mine I would soft solder the joint next. This would prevent unexpected rotation permanently.  Of course I'm a belt and suspenders sort of guy. ;)  BJH
BJH

Offline Acer Saccharum

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Re: Triggerguard Update PICS
« Reply #7 on: August 30, 2010, 04:05:45 PM »
Rich, if you look at your pictures, notice this:
in the picture with the guard held in the vise/; the guard is fuzzy, but the pliers in the background are nice and sharp. Another photo with just the cut off guard extension in the vise; it's completely fuzzy, but the tools on the workbench are sharp.

This has to do with your 'autofocus'. The digital camera has a brain that decides for you what will be in focus and what won't. On most cameras, you CAN select a 'center focus' option, which will have what ever is in the middle of the picture be what's in focus. The downside is that you will have to read the manual. >:(

I forgot to mention this before, but your finishing and filing of the guard is superlative. It is very hard to keep everything well shaped and edges crisp, but it looks like you have a handle on that.

Tom
Tom Curran's web site : http://monstermachineshop.net
Ramrod scrapers are all sold out.

Offline Long John

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Re: Triggerguard Update PICS
« Reply #8 on: August 30, 2010, 04:06:40 PM »
Rich,

Your solution as actually better, in my opinion, than silver soldering.  

You can improve upon it slightly.  Unscrew your replacement lug and file a bit of a flat on the threads, just a bit.  Apply Canfield flux to the threads (available at Home Depot, etc. used for lead-free solders) and screw it back into the trigger guard until it is lined up exactly the way you want.  Now take a propane torch and some silver/tin (lead-free) plumbing and heat up the TG from the side opposite from where the lug screws in until the solder will flow.  The solder will flow into the threads and the little flat will lock the lug in place.  Clean the residual flux off the part and clean up the joint with a file and you've got a solid, permanent joint!

Best Regards,

JMC