Drilling a Pipe Hawk

[jbignell]

I am working on some pipe tomahawks for a couple of my friends, and in the interest of being economical, I decided to not buy the pre-drilled handles and I'm finding myself in a tight spot.  The stock handles on the castings are standard hickory, and I was wondering if anyone has drilled their own handles before or are knowledgeable about a good technique? 

[Tim Crosby]

I have done a few but find it a lot easier, quicker and less troublesome to buy predrilled handles.
  Cut the handle a little longer and wider  than you need, I think I used 20 X 2, make sure it is square, mark the center of both ends with a center punch.
  Now make a second handle out of some scrap hard wood the same dimensions as your handle blank, this will be the guide for your bit. Cut the guide in half lengthwise, cut a groove half the diameter of your bit in each half, I used a table saw and the groove was square but I guess you could use a router or shaper. Anyway the bit should fit snugly between the two and be right in the center.
  Clamp, the blank in a piece of angle iron. I used a piece of aluminum angle that was square on the inside so the blank fit it perfectly and four clamps at right angles to each other. Now clamp both pieces of the guide to the angle about an inch or so from the blank. Lock the whole thing in a vice.
  When the bit is inserted the point should hit right in the center mark. Drill very slowly, back the bit out after each 3/8 to ½”, keep the chips cleaned out. You can try drilling the entire length or you can drill half way,  turn the blank around and drill the other half, just make sure you keep the same faces against the iron.
 I made a bit out of drill rod, it was shaped like a standard spade bit. Only make it as long as you need.
 I did a few but not all were successful.

 Tim C.

Notes:
 Things Have to be square, Not just almost but Square.
 There can be no play between the bit and the Grove in the guide.
 Run the drill slowly, let the bit do the work, Do Not force it, back it out and blow the dust out often.
 The bit should be polished smooth use some bees wax as a lubricant and put more on during the drilling.
 Lube the groove in the guide also. 
 You may be able to get by with a guide that is shorter than the blank, I just felt more comfortable with it being 
 long. Also if it is shorter you will not need as long a bit.     

[skillman]

I have only drilled a couple but I have been successful following some instructions that Dave Rase gave me. I use a very long 1/4 inch drill. I use a full height drill press with a pin on the table to tell where the bit will hit. I drill alternately from end to end with the handle vertical in the drill press. You're going to plug both ends so the 1/4 inch hole isn't a problem and it is easier to get to run straight. I have drilled hickory hawk handles without any problems. Just be prepared for the inevitable drill out.

Steve

[P.W.Berkuta]

I also have been in your spot as I am also CHEAP! I purchased Davis maple handles un-drilled 18" long and I have drilled 4 with 3/16" holes. Three came out OK and 1 broke through a bit more than half way from the head end. I used a aircraft drill about 10 or 12 inches long (about-did not measure it). The drill bit DOES wander in curly maple so advance the drill bit slowly at a high rate of speed and clean out often. Good luck - you will need it! P.S. as mentioned before I would buy it already drilled if I were to buy others .

[David Rase]

I have attached some pictures of the drill fixture I made from a hardware store bar clamp.  I will try to describe the jig for you as you scroll through the pictures.

This is an overall view of the jig.  The fixture starts out as an ordinary 24" bar clamp. 

This is a view of the sliding or top clamp.  As you can see I have removed the clamp screw and replaced it with a 3/8" bolt with a 3/16" hole drilled through the center.  There is also a jam nut.  Looking on the base of the clamp you will see 2 set screws.  There are 2 more on the other side.  These set screws are important as the are used to adjust and lock in the aim of the drill bit to the point on the bottom clamp. 

This is the bottom or fixed clamp.  The only modification I made to this clamp was to drill and tap a 1/4-20 hole to put install a pointed 1/4-20 cut off piece of bolt.

This is a picture of the clamp with a piece of wood installed.  Once you set the length between the two clamps to match the wood, you aim and lock in the upper clamp to the pointed pin on the lower clamp.  Next you reinstall the wood, clamp in in place with the upper 3/8" guide bolt and set the jam nut.  Then you drill in a vertical position until you are about 1" away from the point.  Remove the wood and finish the hole.  It is important that you drill in the vertical position.  If you drill horizontally you will experience drill bit sag.
DMR