Installing a set trigger

[sydney]

I am about to install a single set trigger
My question is at where should the trigger be located to
 have a good trigger pull and the set trigger work properly
     Thanks in advance
       Sydney

[Pete G.]

Randy's explanation is good for double set, but doesn't answer the question about single sets. Personally I don't like single sets because it is difficult to set the trigger with the gun in firing position. If you set it in any other than firing position you will be handling an arm with a very light trigger and have a very real possibility of an AD. That being said, I installed one of the single sets from Susi at MBS. Her explanation was to build a jig to hold both the trigger and the lock so that you could adjust fore and aft to find the optimum positioning. It is a touchy situation because if the trigger is too far back you will have a good pull unset, but you may not have enough power in the set mode to trip the lock. if you get the trigger far enough forward you will have the power you need, but you may not have a very good unset pull. I ended up installing mine so that it had a good unset pull and never use the set function at all, so I now have an expensive single trigger, but it has a good pull.

[Dave B]

Which trigger are you going to be using? There are several out there. I have installed the Hawken single set triggers on rifles to good effect but it was a PITA to get it to work properly. You must balance the power of the trigger main spring with how much contact with the sear. I ended up with slight contact  and a decent unset trigger pull but had to silver solder a small piece of steel on the blade to get the angle perfect for optimal pull.

The first time I built a rifle with this trigger I copied the full size photos out of the TOW cataloge and drew out the rifle full scale to get my possitions where they needed to be. I skipped this the last time around and shouldnt have.  The trigger should have been moved slighly forward and the whole top to bottom profile thinner. but with the finial being a pinapple there was no way to adjust for this other than some minor adjustment to the trigger blade.

[Dphariss]

I am about to install a single set trigger
My question is at where should the trigger be located to
 have a good trigger pull and the set trigger work properly
     Thanks in advance
       Sydney

It is nearly impossible to get a good trigger pull with an unset set trigger due the the geometry of set triggers. Set the trigger up for best operation when set. The sear should contact the rear trigger at about its mid point. The "double lever" set trigger is designed so the front trigger be used as a backup when the set triggers fail for some reason.
Raising the pin height of a DST to gain better leverage for the front trigger  will result in the the stock being too heavy to accommodate the higher triggers. It would probably be possible to scratch build a set trigger that would do both but I see little point.

Dan

[Steve Bookout]

I have made both single and double phase set triggers from scratch for some years now, but if you are using a commercially made set of triggers, the sweet spot, or mid- point of contact will normally be found easiest by placing the trigger pull adjustment screw immediately below the sear.  This is also how I set up my triggers for inlet regardless of single or double set.  I have never found it necessary to use a jig and haven't had an issue to date.  Guess I'm the odd one out as I am also in the group who favors single set triggers over doubles.  Cheers,  Bookie

[sydney]

Thanks for the help--good information as usual
      Sydney

[Dphariss]

Which trigger are you going to be using? There are several out there. I have installed the Hawken single set triggers on rifles to good effect but it was a PITA to get it to work properly. You must balance the power of the trigger main spring with how much contact with the sear. I ended up with slight contact  and a decent unset trigger pull but had to silver solder a small piece of steel on the blade to get the angle perfect for optimal pull.

The first time I built a rifle with this trigger I copied the full size photos out of the TOW cataloge and drew out the rifle full scale to get my possitions where they needed to be. I skipped this the last time around and shouldnt have.  The trigger should have been moved slighly forward and the whole top to bottom profile thinner. but with the finial being a pinapple there was no way to adjust for this other than some minor adjustment to the trigger blade.

Trigger mainsprings are supposed to have a stop that prevents the rear trigger from even toughing the sear when at rest. Firing is done by inertia of the rear trigger.
The mainspring can be generally adjusted by grinding the tip where it bears on the trigger to reduce the amount it pushes the rear trigger up.
Dan

[chuck c.]

Bookie,
I really like your set triggers! If I'm not mistaken I think Ken Guy learned from you, and I really like his set triggers. I'm in the process of starting on a Tennessee right now and because it adds so much to the overall appearance of the rifle I would like to try and make the set triggers. If you haven't guessed where I'm headed I sure wished ya'll would do a tutorial! Also, could you explain your preference for single phase triggers. I use my rifles primarily for hunting and being able to use the front trigger to keep the lock from making a lot of noise when you cock it has always been an advantage for me.
Thanks,
chuck carpenter

[Steve Bookout]

Chuck, thank you for the compliment.  Yes, Ken spent a little time in the shop and now really makes some wonderful looking triggers.  They really add authenticity to a new Tennessee gun that store boughts just can't come close to.  Tutorial?  Well.....maybe.  I can give you some pointers by private email after I get back from panning for gold in California next week.   As for the noise, I pull the cock rearward and then set the trigger once it gets back there.  This is controlled mainly by the amount of spring pressure that you may or may not find desireable.   A big plus for me is that I'm deaf and can't hear it anyways!   Cheers,  Bookie

[G-Man]

They really add authenticity to a new Tennessee gun that store boughts just can't come close to. 

Amen to that.  That is one of things I loved the most about Myron Carlson's hardware sets - he copied the triggers as well as the guards from the originals he used as patterns, so that the triggers looked right and fit the guards perfectly.  I think the Bogle set was the only one he did not copy the triggers for - sure wish he had - I am sure they would have been done as nicely as all the other ones that he did.

Guy