Checkering

[northmn]

I just have a few finishing touches on a project and hope to have a way of posting pictures.  It was my first attempt at checkering.  A few issues for discussion.  The wood was figured birch.  It seemed to have a few soft spots which caused problems (one of which was a slight profile change due to cutting).  I used a 18 line tool as I thought that a coarser one would be easier to learn with.  Jack O'Connor stated in one of his books that anything under about 22 lines was decorative.  It did not work as the instructions stated in the use of RH and LH tools.  Also getting a good consistant pattern to the borders was a problem.  I am OK with what I did on that particular gun as it is really not meant to be a showpiece but a field gun and will be taking a beating anyway. I feel it looks better with my poor checkering than without it.  I know more practice will help, 
but a little discussion on techniques may focus the practice.

DP

[rick landes]

Birch is IMHO difficult to checker as it is very soft compared to other woods. I do not agree with Mr. Connors opinion regarding checkering (among other items), but that discussion is not most fitting in this GB area.

Little tricks I like to use are a double thick piece of black electrical tape or "scotch" tape (does not tend to stretch as black tape can do) as a guide for up and over wrist areas or other curved areas. I like a pull cut tool for cutting near borders. I never have done well with anything other than a cutter with what I call an "outrigger" type guide.

I like good needle files for clean up at straightening lines. Checkering can be quite fun, too!

A good layout a clean straight master lines are an absolute must have, excellent light too. I like an arm rest if I can get it. It helps with fatigue.

Checkering I think is harder than carving as we human are blessed to tell a straight line and a perfect circle with near immediate recognition.

Also some correct (read straight line) checkering is correct but can look off as an optical illusion.

Finally, a note...I saw a high end new Winchester rifle a few months back...the checkering was horrible from a long way off. Point to our discussion not even the checkering you'd expect to be spot on is always what it should be. Take heart and as has been said before "Practice!...

[northmn]

Rick, thanks for the tips.  The birch I had was figured and like figured maple, had some hard spots and soft spots.  One area was so soft I indented slightly before I realized I was being that aggressive.  I also think the 18 line tool had something to do with it.  You are so right about straight lines as one of my borders is slightly curved in looks.  It was a good learning gun, we have to mess up a couple before we get passable I am sure.  I actually checkered it more as a learning tool than I likely should have.  I was considering going to 22 lines. 

DP

[keweenaw]

What lpi you want on your checkering depends on the gun you're building - style, date, etc. - and on the wood.  For checkering, the harder the wood the better, but you will be very disappointed if you try to put 22 lpi checkering on a soft piece of wood as the diamonds have a tendency to fleck out.  The trick on the checkering is to lower the entire pattern slowly.  Cut the entire pattern very, very shallowly - this will make it easier to keep the line parallel - and then go over it a couple times deepening it slightly each time until you get the depth you want.  You'll find that the last couple passes are most easily done with the fine cutter.  Just use a stiff toothbrush to clean the cutter frequently as is loads up.

[billd]

The best thing you can do is get or make a checkering cradle before you even start.  GOOD EYES, good side light, sharp tools and frequent rests.  When the cutter gets dull you will start pushing harder and that is when mistakes happen.   Don't stretch, move your body.  If you get out of your giude line, stop right there. Start your line again past where the mishap happened and then come back to the errant line from the other direction.  The harder the wood, the finer the LPI you can use.  If you hit a soft spot, AND YOU ARE NOT GOING TO STAIN THE WOOD, mix some wood glue with water and brush it on the spot. After it dries it will be noticably harder.

Bill

Bill

[T*O*F]

Lay out your master lines with automotive pin striping tape.
Lightly score a line along the edge of the tape.
Then use a Dembart veiner to cut the master lines.
You can also use the veiner to straighten lines, or cut up to your border when you just can't get the checkering tool to cooperate.

[Evil Monkey]

As with everything, there are numerous way to 'git-er-done'. I use a strip cut from a tansparency to lay out the master lines. Tape on each end to hld in place. As long as it's tight to the wood, it can't stretch and deviate from a straight line. I don't know that a veiner would be the best choice for cutting the masters or for clean up as the "U" shaped cut would conflict with the "V" shape of the checkering. A 'V' parting tool would be a better choice IMO.

[T*O*F]

I don't know that a veiner would be the best choice for cutting the masters or for clean up as the "U" shaped cut would conflict with the "V" shape of the checkering.

Cody,
A Dembart Veiner is not U shaped, it is V shaped and will follow a line in any direction while raising a curl of wood the size of sewing thread.  I believe they are surgical steel and you can get them sharper than Dick's hatband.

[keweenaw]

I've done a lot of rather high end checkering and I definitely wouldn't try to cut the master lines with a dembart veiner.  If you draw those lines on with a hard 0.2mm pencil it is easy to follow them with a single fine cutter and keep them straight.  If you are all freaky about getting them straight you can use a  gunline joiner which is almost impossible to run crooked.  Many of the best checkerers use dymo tape - the old stick on plastic label maker tape, still available in the office supply section of Walmart -  You can lay it around the contour and it keeps a straight edge and it sticks on until you mark your guide lines.

Tom

[sydney]

I agree with Snyder dyno tape is a great way to get the master lines straight
   cut lightly then deepen with a joiner -it is important  to start with good master
   lines   Sydney

[northmn]

Thanks all of you for the suggestions.  I printed them out and will keep them with the instructions for reference.  I would like to be able to get a little better at this task.

DP