Author Topic: Drilling lock bolt holes  (Read 4768 times)

Offline James Rogers

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Drilling lock bolt holes
« on: October 01, 2008, 02:42:52 PM »
When do you drill your lock bolts on a precarve stock?
I notice Hershel in his tape drills on a blank as soon as he hits bottom on the plate. Some others wait until all the lock guts are done and are drilling for the tang.

Offline Acer Saccharum

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Re: Drilling lock bolt holes
« Reply #1 on: October 01, 2008, 03:52:14 PM »
I would drill and tap the plate as soon as you have the plate let in, and you know the locations of your lock bolts. (like not put the bolt where the mainspring is, and on the bolster where it does not interfere with the bridle)

When you are fitting the plate to kiss on the barrel flat, it's mighty handy to be able to draw the lock in tight against the barrel with the screws. I like to get the fit so tight that a piece of cigarette paper will bind up. I will use lamp black or prussian blue to file the bolster to fit tight against the barrel. When in  use, A light smear of grease on the bolster will keep all powder flash and water out of the mechanism.

Once the lock is in, then I know where the trigger and trigger plate goes.

I drill the tang screw after I get the trigger plate in. I sometimes braze a round bolster on the plate for extra thread engagement.

Tom
« Last Edit: October 01, 2008, 08:16:27 PM by Acer Saccharum »
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Offline Dennis Glazener

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Re: Drilling lock bolt holes
« Reply #2 on: October 01, 2008, 07:05:42 PM »
Quote
I like to get the fit so tight that a piece of cigarette paper will bind up.
Acer.
I am not sure if you are talking about the plate being this tight in the mortise or the bolster tight against the barrel. Just thought I might mention so novice builders will be careful, if the plate mortise is too tight you stand the risk of pulling a chip out of the mortise when you are taking the lock out of the mortise. Ask me how I know! I prefer to have a looser fit and normally it will tighten up after the finish is applied. Makes life much more enjoyable when doing the final assembly.
Dennis
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Offline T*O*F

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Re: Drilling lock bolt holes
« Reply #3 on: October 01, 2008, 08:08:19 PM »
Dennis,
One of the reasons for filing a draft around your plate is to prevent this.  Since the mortise is tapered there is nothing to grab the wood.  If it is straight sided, then the entire thickness of the plate must clear the mortise resulting in a much greater surface to bind on the wood.
Dave Kanger

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Offline Acer Saccharum

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Re: Drilling lock bolt holes
« Reply #4 on: October 01, 2008, 08:17:24 PM »
Dennis, It's the fit of bolster against barrel I am talking aboutr. Edited the above. Thanks, T
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Offline David Rase

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Re: Drilling lock bolt holes
« Reply #5 on: October 01, 2008, 09:46:26 PM »
What works best for me is once the bolster is inlet, I locate, drill and tap for the lock plate bolts.  After I have the lock plate about 3/4 of the way inlet I use the lock bolts to help final inlet and seat the lock plate.  I use the lock bolts to seat the lock plate in the inlet because I have had trouble in the past with the lock plate canting if I inlet it to depth with a mallet and then installed the lock bolts.  By utilizing the lock bolts I have eliminated any canting of the lock plate due to the lock bolts.
DMR   

Offline Mike Brooks

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Re: Drilling lock bolt holes
« Reply #6 on: October 02, 2008, 04:24:15 PM »
I just sent you an email on this James......I've  been out playing cowboy for the past week, and haven't caught up with my emails .
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Say, any of you boys smithies? Or, if not smithies per se, were you otherwise trained in the metallurgic arts before straitened circumstances forced you into a life of aimless wanderin'?