stock finish

[eagle24]

Hi folks!  I'm finally getting going on my 2nd rifle (iron mounted southern rifle).  I have been less than satisfied with the durability of the finish I used on my first rifle.  I love the look, but it is not holding up well IMO.  I wanted to see what you folks would consider using as a durable finish.  The stock will be maple, stained with homebrewed aqua fortis and I am planning for this rifle to see hard use at the range and in the woods.  I want a durable, moisture resistant finish, without a high gloss sheen.

[Dennis Glazener]

Chambers oil finish would be my choice. If it gets nicked/scratched just wool it down good and put another coat on it.
Dennis

[Rasch Chronicles]

A lot of coats of lovingly applied, hand rubbed linseed oil! I do that with all my hand tools and it seems to hold up.

Best Regards,
Albert “Afghanus” Rasch
Albert A Rasch In Afghanistan

[eagle24]

A lot of coats of lovingly applied, hand rubbed linseed oil! I do that with all my hand tools and it seems to hold up.

Best Regards,
Albert “Afghanus” Rasch
Albert A Rasch In Afghanistan

I was always under the impression that linseed oil did not hold up well in wet conditions.  Am I wrong in thinking this?

[KLMoors]

After staining I seal the stock with Formbeys because it penetrates like crazy and leaves very little finish on the surface. For first coats, I put a couple of coats of Tru-oil on the stock and rub it way back with steel wool between coats. I've used that stuff on knife handles and it seems tough and waterproof. Then I put Chambers Oil on for my finishing coats. 5 or 6 coats rubbed back with steel wool in between. I've been happy with that system.

[76 warlock]

Hunting in wet weather linseed oil will stain and actually turn white especially where your hands hold it. I use Formby tung oil and it is not damaged by water.

[dogcreek]

I don't have experience with other oils, but I no longer use Tru-Oil because I've seen sap from trees and even weeds dissolve it. I prefer to spend my spare time doing other things than refinishing stocks.

[g rummell]

I use about 6 coats of Teak Oil let it dry (at least 12 hours between coats)  then wool it down followed by a couple coats of hand rubbed marine varnish. If the sheen is too much you can knock it down with 0000 steel wool soaked with WD40.

[bama]

The first rifle I built 30 years ago was finished with BC TRU OIL and it has been a good finish through many hunting trips. Yes it has worn through where I handle the rifle alot but I can touch that up if I wanted to but I usually just put a coat of Johnsons paste on and keep going.
I like to use oil finishes because they are easy to touch up. It is not the most durable finish and probably not the most water resistant but I like so I guess that is all that matters.

[chuck-ia]

How do you touch up the worn areas? Usually the stock is stained, and the stain is allso wore off. Every one of my rifles show wear in the wrist area and forestock, I will just leave them, they look used. I am finishing a walnut stock gun I plan to use tru oil on, no stain, I think touch up would be easy on such a gun, could be wrong though. chuck-ia

[pathfinder]

If your having trouble with a finish turning sticky or white in damp weather,normally one of two things happened.#1 the coats were not TOTALLY dry before the next one was applied,or your hunting under water! In my 45+ years as a furniture re-finsher,I've used just about all the different concoctions out there and if used properly,they will all work well,within limits.
I even applied MinWax Spar varnish,Satin,by hand the same way you would applie Boiled linseed oil,and it turned out really nice! Have used that method a few times since.
Just be PATIENT when appling your finish. A dry environment is crucial to proper curing.

[Longknife]

Here is my method for a completely waterproof finish, now this is NOT wear proof, no wood finish is wear proof. It is also NOT PC so if you're a purist stop reading now.
1) Coat the stock thoroughly with Thompsons Waterseal, in lock mortices, barrel channel, pour some down the rr hole, saturate it completely, let is soak a while  and keep applying to areas that soak it up. Let it dry over night.

2) Do #1 again, let it dry over night.

3) Mix TWS 50/50 with Formbys low gloss Tung Oil, apply to all areas, lock mortice, barrel channel etc.....wipe it off and let ot dry over night.

4) Do #3 again, let it dry over night.

5) Use pure Formbys and paint it on, inside lock mortice, barrel channel and hand rub it into exposed areas. Let dry over night.


6) Hand rub your next coat(s) of pure FBYs'on extieror of stock surfaces only.  Let it dry over night.

#7 Repeat #6 as many times as necessary to give the finish you desire.

[Dphariss]

Hi folks!  I'm finally getting going on my 2nd rifle (iron mounted southern rifle).  I have been less than satisfied with the durability of the finish I used on my first rifle.  I love the look, but it is not holding up well IMO.  I wanted to see what you folks would consider using as a durable finish.  The stock will be maple, stained with homebrewed aqua fortis and I am planning for this rifle to see hard use at the range and in the woods.  I want a durable, moisture resistant finish, without a high gloss sheen.

Home cooked "boiled linseed oil" mixed 50-50 with Grumbachers Oil Painting Medium III is very durable.
Mixed with some aged real Turpentine it makes a good sealer. Too
I would not use it for fill on walnut its too hard just the home cooked oil for this. Thicker stuff is better.
I have a rifle that was used pretty hard for 3 three years (probably carried at least 50 miles hunting crawling through the grass etc etc) with little change in the finish after one coat, its dinged and scratched etc but the finish was still good. I added another coat this fall and it made it a lot shinier.  This stuff never water spots as linseed oil can if used as top coat.
Also most of the finish is IN THE WOOD so its not going to chip or wear off.
I would also point out that sealing with modern clear finishes does little to enhance the beauty of the wood. Dark colored drying oils are far superior especially on walnut. Though it may look the same initially in a a week or so the contrast and color will be improved over the modern finish. Especially if exposed to direct sunlight.
The finishes with petroleum or other solvents are also hard on the user. Using them on stocks requires some exposure to the fumes this is surely similar to "huffing" paint fumes.
How one is supposed to make a traditional Longrifle with petroleum and plastic stock finishes is beyond me.

Dan

[Rasch Chronicles]

Any oil finish takes time to plastisize. I live in Florida, and I haven't noticed any filming or tackiness on my tools. Now remember, I talking about tool handles made out of lord knows how many varieties of branches, pallets, shovel handles, and scrap wood I find... I would suggest double checking against the masters of the art here!

Best Regards,
Albert “Afghanus” Rasch
Dealing with Islamic Extremism “Chronicles” Style

[twistedtree]

I think the marine varnish would hold up the best, put it on an old gun stock and it has held up good for the last 8 years.

[hoochiepapa]

I have a bird's eye maple stock that I used Watco oil on, Natural, and have never had any probs with. I just followed the instructs, rubbed it down with 0000 steel wool between coats, and it looks as good today as it did 25 years ago.

[Roger Fisher]

A lot of coats of lovingly applied, hand rubbed linseed oil! I do that with all my hand tools and it seems to hold up.

Best Regards,
Albert “Afghanus” Rasch
Albert A Rasch In Afghanistan

I was always under the impression that linseed oil did not hold up well in wet conditions.  Am I wrong in thinking this?

IF you can get your hands on the olde tyme leaded boiled linseed oil it is a different cat than the store bought unleaded....   

[Artificer]

Oh, not sure I want to get into going over what is authentic an finish again as that thread went for quite some time.  Grin. 

Marine Varnish is about the most waterproof finish, BUT be careful you get the kind that hardens.  Some is made to stay sort of wet or tacky.  I bought the wrong kind once and played heck out of getting it off the stock.

Tru-oil had been used at the Rifle Team Equipment Repair Shop in Quantico for some time on M1 Garand and M14 wood even before I reported in during 1973 to begin my apprenticeship training.  On a NM wood stocked rifle, you don't want much water vapor going in and out of the stock as that will cause the stock to loosen up or tighten up depending on the climate when you shoot it.  That will cause flyers - even in a long rifle stock and barrel.  I agree the only time I ever saw it whiten was when each coat was not allowed to dry properly.  We had rifles that got soaked on the firing lines and after wiping them dry, the Tru-oil kept them from gaining much water/water vapor absorption.  I've seen stocks and handguards that I finished with Tru Oil 20 to 30 years ago and the oil age darkened a bit, though the effect was pleasing. 

Gus

[sleddman]

Ive used several of the commercial brands in the past but I like the look and durability of the Jim Chambers stock finish.  My guns are not made for bluebird days only, so they have been well tested with the Chambers finish and it has held up well.  Good luck