Early Lancaster work in progress pics

[Curtis]

Here are some progress pics of my second build.  I have the fore end slimmed to approximately 1/8" and an starting to inlet the entry pipe so I can start rounding and shaping.  Right now it is very slab sided.  I would like to hear any pointers and constructive criticism ya'll might have, please.  Right now I could use some pointers on methods for shaping the lock panels....  I did alright with the lock panels on my first build, but I got there by lots of fumbling, guessing and some dumb luck also.   

Lock inlet, starting trigger plate.



Side panel brought down to proper width and sketched to shape.  Also some ideas for carving behind cheek piece.  I haven't shaped the cheek-piece yet.



Lock side, panels outlined but not fully shaped yet.  Trigger guard inlet.







Inletting sideplate and removing s little excess wood.







Starting entry thimble inlet.



Thanks for looking.

[whitebear]

You need a new camera that one makes the pictures backwards.  Seriously nice job so far keep us up to date.

[California Kid]

Your'e right it is to slab sided, you need to get that wood down to its final shape or profile before you even think about beavertails and carving.

[rich pierce]

Before working on the front lock molding I'd get the stock rounded in front of the guard and in the lower forestock.  Then the panels will flow better.  It's almost impossible to shape the lock panels before sheping the forestock and belly of the gun, same is true of the entry pipe for me.

[wvmtnman]

Looking good so far, but now is where the hard part begins.  As others have stated, slim it down and round up the forarm before you do the lock panels.
     One of the most difficult areas I had when I first started was making the lock panels.  I found it was easier to use a 3/8 or 5/16 round rat tail wood rasp to shape this area in front of the lock and small wood rasps for the rest of the area.  The idea is to remove the wood in front of the panel.  Not carve the panel.  This is a transition area and must flow.  If it is carved in it will be hard to make it flow into that area.
   As for the molding around the lock panel, I do that last.  Once the rifle is completely shaped, draw your molding.  You only need to leave a SLIGHT amount of "extra" wood, (if any) to create these.  Do that for the "bever tail" to the rear of the lock panel too.
   Maybe others can chime in and describe this a little better.
                                                                Brian

[Curtis]

Thanks for the suggestions, guys.  With luck I will have some time today to finish inletting the entry pipe and start rounding the forestock.  As far as the upper forestock goes, would an early Lancaster most likely be of a rounded profile, or the"heart shaped" profile?  I have several rifle building books as well as scads reference material, but still sometimes the specifics are hard for me to distill on my own.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

All of the advice given so far has been tack on.  Finish shaping the butt stock and the lower forend right down to the sand/scrape stage, and then lay out the moldings.  If it were mine, I would be thinning up the lock panel, and consequently, the off side panel as well...although there are examples of thick and heavy panels on lancaster rifles, I prefer them no more that 1/8" wide, flaring at the fore and aft transitions into the wrist and forend.

It looks like it's going to be a very handsome rifle.

[Curtis]

l...although there are examples of thick and heavy panels on lancaster rifles, I prefer them no more that 1/8" wide, flaring at the fore and aft transitions into the wrist and forend.

It looks like it's going to be a very handsome rifle.

Thanks for the vote of confidence Taylor!  The wood looks like it is very curly and quite beautiful, I will sure try and do it justice.  I will follow your advice on the lock panel width.

I didn't get as far along today as I had hoped, it took me so long to inlet the entry pipe I had very little time left to devote to shaping the stock.  Here are a couple more pics.

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

One more thought Curtis.  I would lower the top edge of the forestock including the panels to expose 1/16"more than 1/2 of the barrel side flat.. this will slim her up quite abit.

[Curtis]

Excellent suggestion there, Dr. Boone.  I believe that will also help considerably in getting away from the slab-side problem.

[Roger Fisher]

Using a flat chisel around that opposite lock panel would give me the hibes/hives. Suggest a gouge working away from the breech.  Also a rat tail file broken in half. This works slick around her nose...  In breaking the file you may get an ear sticking forward on the file which is a help also and handy.