Author Topic: Damascus Refinish  (Read 4323 times)

twhrider2

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Damascus Refinish
« on: October 18, 2008, 06:58:01 PM »
Some time ago some of you guys posted a very detailed way to refinish and bring out the pattern on damascus barrels. I fully intended to save or print this off for future reference but never did. Now I have a set of barrels I would like to do and don't have the info. Not sure if this made it to the tutorials or not, if any one has this saved or knows where I could find it I would really appreciate it. 
                                                                          Thanks in advance, Ken

Bill Brockway

  • Guest
Re: Damascus Refinish
« Reply #1 on: October 19, 2008, 06:35:54 PM »
Ken  -

It may have been the following.  This is a variation on a browning procedure developed by Dr. Oscar Gaddy (now deceased) and first printed by him in Double Gun Journal.  I have had very good results using this procedure

"1 - Polish the barrels to 400 grit or finer (400 is usually enough). If you have tested the barrels for pattern, using acid, this area will have to be polished bright again, before proceeding.

2 - Apply a diluted solution of Laurel Mountain Forge Browner and Degreaser (see below).

3 - Hang barrels in a warm, humid location until a coating of rust forms (may take 4 hours to overnight, depending on ambient temperature and humidity). I use a steam box, powered by a coffee percolator bottom (for the water vapor), and a light bulb (for the heat).

4 - Dip rusted barrels in a solution of 15 parts Radio Shack circuit board etchant and 85 parts water (I use a capped piece of 3" PVC pipe as a dipping tank). Dip for no longer than 5 seconds (important)! That's 15% RS etchant (a solution of Ferric Chloride and water) and 85% water. I am lucky enough to live where the tap water is almost chemically pure. It may be necessary for people in other parts of the country to use distilled water.

5 - Immediately after dipping, flush barrels clean with a garden hose and lots of water. I do this outside my shop in the yard. It is important to stop the etchant from working any longer than 5 or 10 seconds.

6. - Card (scrub down barrels) with medium steel wool under water. This will make the pattern begin to appear.

7 - Repeat steps 2 through 6 until the barrels are dark enough to suit you. This may take a lot of passes, maybe as many as 8 or 10.

In step 2, dilute the LMF with 2 parts water for the 1st pass only. The next couple of passes can be 5 parts water to 1 part LMF. After that, the remaining passes can be 8 - 10 parts water to 1 part LMF. I no longer use the browner diluted any more than this. The dip in Radio Shack etchant serves to remove the rust from the white striations without affecting the brown striations.

If you prefer a black and white finish, boil the barrels in clean water for 5 minutes after step 6.  Repeat this after each rusting/carding cycle.  Dr. Gaddy also used a logwood solution dip on his black-and-white barrels, which I haven't tried, yet. Logwood is a stain used by trappers to darken steel traps."

I hope this will be helpful.

Bill 

 


Bill Brockway

  • Guest
Re: Damascus Refinish
« Reply #2 on: October 20, 2008, 12:18:56 AM »
Ken  -

Here are a couple of pictures of barrels browned using the processes described above.

Bill





Bill
« Last Edit: October 20, 2008, 03:53:42 AM by Acer Saccharum »

doug

  • Guest
Re: Damascus Refinish
« Reply #3 on: October 20, 2008, 04:06:10 AM »
      some minor nitpicking; instead of dipping the barrels in ferric chloride solution, I wipe the solution on the barrels every 4 or 5 minutes for a total of 10 to 15 minutes.  The ferric chloride seems to whiten the whites and darken the darks .   My main reason for not immersing the barrels is to reduce the risk of ferric chloride leaking in between the barrels through gaps or air holes which have not been plugged adequately.

cheers Doug

twhrider2

  • Guest
Re: Damascus Refinish
« Reply #4 on: October 20, 2008, 04:26:51 AM »
Thanks guys this is the info I was looking for. Have read alot on Gaddy's solution but yours seems a lot more simplified. Just picked up an old restoration project and wanted to do a little research before I started on it. And by the way Mr. Brockway, I have your book on double muzzleloaders and it is a favorite in my cabinet.
                                                                                        Thanks again, Ken