Request for a tutorial.

[Cory Joe Stewart]

If any of you fine gentlemen have time, I was wondering if any of you couldput together a tutorial on draw filing a barrel??

Thanks in advance

Coryjoe

[Rasch Chronicles]

Cory,

Good one!

I've draw filed anealed knife blades, but it would eb nice to have someone with experience tell us all about it!

Regards,
Albert

[Dave B]

The first order of business is to find a yougster that has lots of energy. Make sure you have a sharp file and turn em loose.  It would be helpful to have the process that our more experienced builders use.  I have found that a second cut mill file works the best for me. I follow up with a smooth cut mill file then polish out with 150 grit wet and dry.  Some one showed me an auto body file to use for filing out the machine marks but I have not used one for this yet. They remove a lot of metal in a hurry.

[g.pennell]

Brownell's sells a "draw file" that is about 6" long, and 2" wide that really works well for draw-filing anything flat.  If you keep it clean and don't allow chips to build up, there's usually no need for any more filing when done...I go straight to 100 or 150 grit abrasive paper.  A tip for backing your abrasive paper:  use about a 3-4" cut-off piece of an 8" mill file.  Round off the edges, and dull the teeth somewhat with a belt sander (helps avoid scratches if you go through the paper).  The short length allows you to use both thumbs as guides along the barrel to help prevent rocking, and makes your flats "flatter".

Greg

[Blacksmoke]

Cory:  Dave is right!    Unless you have a lot of energy to burn and a strong set of arms!   I have drawfiled a lot of barrels in my younger days - now I still can but it takes a lot longer.     The first requirement is a sharp single cut file at least 10" long.   I have discovered a brand of file that does not gall and choke up -( Bahco) they are Portuguese and the best that I have found so far.  Mount the barrel in your vise, using soft jaws, with the top three flats above the jaws.  Make sure the file is carded before you start and keep the file card close by.  Hold the file in each hand - one at each end.  Place on the top flat at 90 degrees and begin stroking back and forth. After several strokes card the file again.   I do not use chalk but some do.   Also I do not use cutting oil but some do.    Drawfile all of the plaining marks out from one end of the flat to the other.  Repeat on all 8 flats or just the top 5 if you wish.  I draw file the breech tang as well as it is in place before I begin drawfiling the barrel.   Hope that helps.   Hugh Toenjes

[Paddlefoot]

A bit of a variation on what Hugh posted. I use a lathe file because I find it easier to control with the steeper angle to the teeth across the width of the file. I also preferr a 12" file to a shorter one as I like them to be heavier/thicker . I chalk my files from the start and dont use anything stiffer than a stiff nylon brush to clean them. If I do get metal particles jammed into the teeth I use a hardwood block to get it out by pushing the file across the block paralell to the gullet of the teeth or pick them out with a bamboo skewer. I segregate my files and keep files for steel and files for non-ferrous metals segregated.

[Model19]

I thought when draw-filing, you only filed (draw) in one direction, not back and forth. Am I wrong about that?

[Dave B]

I don't think it hurts any thing to allow the file to drag on the surface. You will be pressing down on the cutting stroke only. I use a piece of brass to card my file and chalk to load it. If you buy Rice barrels you will never have to draw file again.  The roughest barrel I have had to work with on the out side was a Colraine.

[Don Getz]

Model 19.......you are right about that, they will only cut in one direction.   Basics.......keep the handle of the file in your left hand to "draw" file, or in your right hand to "push", you can do it either way.   When we first went into the barrel business
we draw filed all our barrels.   The finish was milled rather than planed.    Planing leaves those longitudinal marks, milling
leaves occassional bumps.   We had a profile mill that took about 15 minutes to mill one flat on a barrel......I could draw
file one barrel while that mill made one cut.   The best files I ever found were about a 10" fine cut, made in Finland.  Found
them at a flea market.   I bought a few from this guy and made the remark, "you'll regret not buying them all".    He was
right, I went back and bought all that he had.   We finally made a big belt sander to do the job.........draw filing is a lot of
work.    If you have a good file, there is no need to go to fine emery paper when you are finished, especially if you are going to brown the barrel.   For you guys that do the emery paper bit, try this.......rub it hard with scotch brite wrapped
around the barrel, you will be amazed................Don

[keweenaw]

Model


You're correct.  You draw the file toward yourself and lift it off the surface on the return.  If you slide it back it tends to dull the teeth.  Keep the file, which should be a single cut (smooth) file, at right angles to the barrel.  The file should not move from left to right as you pull it up the barrel and you need to make sure the file is flat on the surface of the barrel before you start your stroke.  If a file has any nicks or dull spots on it it will load and the captured pieces of steel (pins) will make scratches along the barrel.  Using file chalk on the file will help a bit to prevent loading.  Basically when you find a NEW file that works well as a draw file, write "Draw file only" on that tang with your magic marker and keep it in the drawer such that it can't get banged up by other files when you're not using it.  I have one of Brownell's draw files.  It's ok but not great as it gives a bit coarser surface that I like.  If I'm starting on something that needs a lot of cleaning up I'll use it to remove most of the marks and then switch to a 12" Nicholson mill smooth that works wonderfully.  I found a 30-40 year old one that was brand new in the wrapper.  Cuts beautifully and never pins.  If I want a really smooth surface I take a couple of passes on the barrel with a 6" Nicholson mill smooth - similar vintage to the one above.  It takes the finest shavings off the surface and when I'm done with that there is no need for abrasive paper on a charcoal blued or textured brown finish.  If I want a really slick plum brown finish I start with 220 paper after the fine draw file.

Draw filing isn't nearly so bad as some of the prior posters suggest.  It is terrible with a bad or dull file but it's a fairly pleasant job with a good file.  With the right files I can have a Rice barrel filed smooth in just over 30 minutes.

Tom

[Cory Joe Stewart]

Thanks everyone.  This has been very helpful.  I am considering a Colerain barrel and from what you say drawfilling will be needed.  Plus it is a skill to know I guess.

Thanks again

Coryjoe

[Acer Saccharum]

Search 'YouTube' when you wonder how to do something:

[Dphariss]

I push not draw. Cannot possibly see what difference there would be on the work piece.

File the flat(s), then using a "file" made from 1/4" plexiglas with 150 or 220 grit wet of dry paper stuck on with carpet tape I polish (The "easy remove" double stick tape is the best option for this if you can find it. Makes paper changing easier.). Angle the strokes with the coarse paper slightly then angle slightly across these marks with the finer paper until the degree of polish is reached. I never go beyond 320. Last grit can be run straight down the flat. Running at an angle will show the previous scratches better and make it easier to tell if the previous marks have been removed if this is important. I tend to take the coarse marks out.
Don't put too much pressure on the plexiglas "file" it will bend and will tend to round the flats. I hold my hands close together when using these to prevent flex.
The file will load up and GOUGE THE BARREL. So I tap the edge of the file on  the vise to clear the chips. Chalk or soapstone (welders marking sticks) rubbed into the teeth will help prevent this as well. NEVER use a clogged file.


Dan

[camerl2009]

hows that go in 1 direction when filing metal not back and forth i find if you do that it dulls the file

oh and buy files that are made in north america(canada/USA)

[Cory Joe Stewart]

What kind of shape does Buckeye Barrels come in?  I am looking at one of theirs.

Coryjoe

[Kermit]

Buckeye gets barrels from 3 or 4 makers. Which one you looking at?

[Cory Joe Stewart]

The one they use with their Lancaster kit. 

Coryjoe

[Long Ears]

I know my latest Lancaster kit from Chambers was a Rice barrel. It was nearly perfect when I got it but it had a few "marks" during the build that I had to draw file out. Mine is a .54 round bottom rifling 44". By far the nicest barrel I have ever had. I have not had them all however. Bob