Author Topic: "Correct" Stains and finishes for historical accuracy ??  (Read 7346 times)

Offline James

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"Correct" Stains and finishes for historical accuracy ??
« on: February 25, 2011, 07:46:30 PM »
Hello, I don't want to take another's  thread and I've read many different opinions here. I am curious and not in a trying to start a fight kind of curious, about what should be used to stain & finish a late 1700s early 1800s rifle. I have purchased LMF Honey Maple and Walnut stains with the intent of mixing. I also got LMF Permalyn, but I'm reading this is not correct. I am not to the point of using these yet so can someone educate me? Thank you, James.
"Guard with jealous attention the public liberty. Suspect everyone who approaches that jewel. Unfortunately, nothing will preserve it but downright force. Whenever you give up that force, you are ruined... The great object is that every man be armed. Everyone who is able might have a gun." P.Henry

keweenaw

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Re: "Correct" Stains and finishes for historical accuracy ??
« Reply #1 on: February 25, 2011, 08:30:41 PM »
OOPS! Tom sorry I hit modify instead of reply - too many late nights ;)

Anyway to re-iterate Tom's post the best I can: the most common staining of the period was Aqua Fortis aka ferric nitrate/nitrate of iron and perhaps ferric acetate aka iron dissolved in vinegar. AF is available pre-made, you can make your own, use the ferric nitrate crystals which are generally dissolved in water.
Finishes were generally real heat boiled linseed oil, linseed oil based varnishes, and spirit based varnishes.

....there is no commercial source for appropriate boiled linseed oil or varnishes

« Last Edit: February 25, 2011, 11:36:13 PM by Chuck Burrows »

Offline Chuck Burrows

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Re: "Correct" Stains and finishes for historical accuracy ??
« Reply #2 on: February 25, 2011, 11:28:19 PM »
Quote
there is no commercial source for appropriate boiled linseed oil

Actually there is at least one source - Tried and True makes a true boiled linseed oil (aka heat poylmerized) - they also  make a varnish. I now use the latter as a base for my own varnish and add white lead along with add'l rosin, even by it's self it's not bad just bit on the soft side.
I used to make my own boiled oil from scratch and then the varnish - the T & T with additions works just as well if not better.....
« Last Edit: February 25, 2011, 11:44:59 PM by Chuck Burrows »
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Offline Rich

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Re: "Correct" Stains and finishes for historical accuracy ??
« Reply #3 on: February 25, 2011, 11:29:34 PM »
I've never bought from them, but see http://www.woodfinishingenterprises.com/coating.html as a source for linseed oil. Woodcraft also sells a varnish that I do use. It is Tried and True. It is linseed oil allegedly polymerized with heat.

Joe S

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Re: "Correct" Stains and finishes for historical accuracy ??
« Reply #4 on: February 26, 2011, 12:56:50 AM »
I’ve had good results with their Varnish Maker’s Linseed Oil.  Just add lead and resins.

Offline Swampwalker

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Re: "Correct" Stains and finishes for historical accuracy ??
« Reply #5 on: February 26, 2011, 01:26:55 AM »
Check or Gary Brumfield's website for pictures of rifles stained with tar dissolved in turpentine, with melted beeswax as a finish.  These were materials readily available during the time period. 
Personally, I like the AF stain, with an oil-based varnish finish.

Offline James

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Re: "Correct" Stains and finishes for historical accuracy ??
« Reply #6 on: February 26, 2011, 01:53:29 AM »
I must admit I have been a little nervous about trying aquafortis.
"Guard with jealous attention the public liberty. Suspect everyone who approaches that jewel. Unfortunately, nothing will preserve it but downright force. Whenever you give up that force, you are ruined... The great object is that every man be armed. Everyone who is able might have a gun." P.Henry

Offline Acer Saccharum

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Re: "Correct" Stains and finishes for historical accuracy ??
« Reply #7 on: February 26, 2011, 06:06:12 AM »
Nervous about Aqua Fortis?

Try a small bottle from Wahkon Bay or some such source. Do some sample staining on scrap. It is surprisingly easy. Note that the color you get is hard to predict. Brown, reddish brown, dark brown are within the practical range. If you want honey, or reddish tones, you can try modern stains or pigmented varnishes.
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Offline James

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Re: "Correct" Stains and finishes for historical accuracy ??
« Reply #8 on: March 01, 2011, 09:39:56 PM »
OK, I ordered a bottle of aquafortis. My concern is I'll goon up this lovely piece of wood by getting it too dark to see the wonderful pattern it has to show. School me, please. Thanks, James
"Guard with jealous attention the public liberty. Suspect everyone who approaches that jewel. Unfortunately, nothing will preserve it but downright force. Whenever you give up that force, you are ruined... The great object is that every man be armed. Everyone who is able might have a gun." P.Henry

Ron Brimer

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Re: "Correct" Stains and finishes for historical accuracy ??
« Reply #9 on: March 01, 2011, 10:14:20 PM »
Just watch the heat you apply. My late friend Ron Ehlert said he turned his first stock as black as plastic never could get it to lighten up
 Ron B
« Last Edit: March 02, 2011, 06:26:23 PM by Ron Brimer »

Offline James

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Re: "Correct" Stains and finishes for historical accuracy ??
« Reply #10 on: March 01, 2011, 10:20:57 PM »
Thanks for the encouragement Ron  ;D That is kind of what I'm hoping to avoid :D :D :D
"Guard with jealous attention the public liberty. Suspect everyone who approaches that jewel. Unfortunately, nothing will preserve it but downright force. Whenever you give up that force, you are ruined... The great object is that every man be armed. Everyone who is able might have a gun." P.Henry

Offline rich pierce

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Re: "Correct" Stains and finishes for historical accuracy ??
« Reply #11 on: March 01, 2011, 11:07:21 PM »
I would test stains in the barrel channel if I didn't have slabs off the blank.
Andover, Vermont

omark

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Re: "Correct" Stains and finishes for historical accuracy ??
« Reply #12 on: March 02, 2011, 12:27:59 AM »
my first try with af turned out black also, i eventually refinished the stock and got it to show the grain some, but was still too dark. i used a torch to do it and it was way too much heat. apply heat very sparingly, you can always heat it a little more or even add more af if its not dark enough, but its hard to lighten it up, so go easy.   mark

Offline Jim Kibler

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Re: "Correct" Stains and finishes for historical accuracy ??
« Reply #13 on: March 02, 2011, 12:39:09 AM »
With properly prepared ferric nitrate (aquafortis) there should be no chance of it going black on maple.  I have difficulty pushing it to produce darker tones. 

Offline Stophel

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Re: "Correct" Stains and finishes for historical accuracy ??
« Reply #14 on: March 02, 2011, 12:50:27 AM »
I've never had A.F. turn maple black...

I have noticed that generally the softer the wood, the darker A.F. will turn it.  Since I avoid such soft wood, maybe that's why I've never gotten any to turn black!

Most people seem to want their wood black now anyway.....   ::)
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Offline pathfinder

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Re: "Correct" Stains and finishes for historical accuracy ??
« Reply #15 on: March 02, 2011, 08:00:41 AM »
I use the tar in turps on Ash stocked guns. A lifelong re-finisher,my Grangpa use to make us kids go out in the street on hot day's to get the soft tar from the road cracks to make stain.
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