Nosecap questions

[bgf]

A few questions, for whoever has the time. 

I have beat out a presentable one-piece nosecap with 22g (~.030") steel.  That's plan A, and I'm pretty happy with it, and could do it again reliably.  I also have a two-piece one out of the same material that is really to be soldered up, aka plan B.  Is that material appropriate in general for a nosecap?  Anyone who knows me will understand that my inclination was to use thicker material, but all I have on hand is 16g (~.060), which presents little problem for a two piece, but has resisted all my efforts to swage nicely -- is that simply too thick or do I need to make a better block and use a bigger hammer ?  I suspect it is a little on the thick side for a nosecap, anyway -- wouldn't leave much wood in this case. 

I have to admit that the one-piece "look" feels right on this build, so I'm feeling that is the way to go.  It was neat to work through.  I suspect brass could be a good bit thicker and still work easier with annealing.  As usual, I am probably overthinking, so if someone can tell me that 22g is OK for this application, I'll be happy, but if not, I'll go find something in between.

[J. Talbert]

0.030 should work fine.

Jeff

[David R. Pennington]

I've never done a one piece out of steel but I would imagine 22 gauge might be heavy enough.  How does it feel?  16 gauge is pretty heavy but you might be able to do it if you aneal it first. Heat red and bury it in a bucket of sand and let it cool very slowly or you could forge it hot if you have acces to a forge or other heat source. I would think being formed out of one piece it might be pretty sturdy.

[bgf]

Thanks, guys. 

David, it feels and looks pretty solid and hold its shape just fine, in part, as you say, because it is formed.  I thought about working the 16g hot, but I would need to make a better swage block first.  Would annealing do much good -- it is extremely mild steel, and my understanding was that it wouldn't make much difference?  Both the cold-rolled sheet and hot-rolled bar stock seem to work a long time without hardening noticeably, but it is something I could try if I need to.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Your mild steel will not improve with annealing.  If you use the 1/16" thick stuff, you will need to make some forming dies - at least the male one - out of brass or steel, so you can forge the nose piece with red heat.  You can use hard maple for 1/32" steel or brass, and they make perfectly serviceable nose pieces, either one or two piece.

[bgf]

Taylor,
Thanks, I was ready to go with the 22g on J.T.'s OK, but your confirmation is appreciated also.  The way I have shaped the nose, 1/16" would require a relative lot of wood to lose and a lot of effort that doesn't seem necessary in this case, so I'm sticking with the "thin" one.  Actually I made another one this morning and it came out even better (and quicker), and I got the fit to the barrel better (practice).  There's a pile of nosecaps that could have been, but other than that, I'm good to go . 

For anyone trying it, I did use a wood form rasped off to the same profile as the nose and secured the nosecap to it with a hoseclamp (no rr groove in this one) and it worked like a charm for the 22g.  Brass should be even easier if you keep it soft, but I would count on at least a couple of trial runs unless you are a prodigy .