planks vs pre-carves

[Ted Kramer]

Most of my guns are built from blanks. I put a "kit" gun together for one guy once that had all the parts pre-inlet...what a nightmare it was! The barrel channel and rr groove/hole were fine but the lock was ~115% inlet and I had to upset the metal on the trigger bar to get a good fit. I had to find a lock with a bigger sized plate to make it work. Any other pre shaped stocks I used had only the bbl. channel and rod groove/hole done. Blanks are the best way to go to get what you like.

[LURCHWV@BJS]

  I believe after I am more familiar with the architecture that goes into a HC rifle,  I will be building from a  partial pre-carve.   Or at least one that has the buttstock and wrist already done.  I would love  to have a precarve with the lock panels pre-shaped as well as the forearm and upper forearm shaped, But I also want it to be inlet for a 48in swamped barrel.  Most people who have the stock carving machines tell me they can't go that long.

  So I take what I can get.  Sad thing is I keep putting off spending the money for a barrel.  Kinda feel selfish for wanting to do it.  Not working at the moment has alot to do with it also.  Should find out tommorrow if I am released from the Doc.  Cross yer fingers

  I guess It all boils down to each persons skill level.  Someday I WILL build from a plank.  Gotta crawl before you canwalk...Gotta walk before you can run... Keep in mind we can fall at any stage... Only matters when you quit getting back up.


Rich

[Curt Larsen]

I've done both.  I've come to the decision that I really don't want to do anymore precarves unless the forearm is left square and there are no inlets for the lock and trigger.  It a real pain to drill for barrel and thimble pins, not to mention those for trigger guards on a rounded surface and have them come out where they are suppossed to on the other side.  Even with one of Tom Snyer's or Dave Rase's drill jigs to line them up, it is just too hard to work to a curved surface.  Like others have said it is better to make your own mistakes than have to correct someone else's. 

[David R. Pennington]

my first build was from a plank for the same reasons a lot of folks give. Its cheaper.  My first plank had some nice curl in the forestock but it ran out in the butt so I got it pretty cheap. I had some cherry planks sawn from trees I took out of the back yard (even cheaper) and I have a nice red maple that looks to be curly as a sheep's back cut down waiting on dryer weather so I can get the tractor to it. I have a local fellow with a homemade band mill that will saw for me very reasonable. Of course they will take years to air dry but I'm not in a hurry. I've still got several planks on hand and I work slow.

[t.caster]

The rafters in my shop are full of maple, walnut & cherry blanks. I will assemble a kit from a reputable maker for a customer, but I much prefer starting from a blank. I have had a few pre-shaped by Fred Miller, but usually just have him inlet the barrel. I am having Dave Keck do one right now.
I was amazed when Fred told me how many recognized builders he did shaping for!
There is a big diff. between just pre-shaped and pre-carved, as in kits. But they do create a lot of restrictions for the builder.

[holzwurm]

I've done 1 and have #2 & 3 ready for band sawing out the rough shape of whatever I think I can make. However, I have had my barrell & RR hole cut in by Dick Miller. I doubt that I could get the fit by hand that he can with his routing frame.