Patchbox Release

[Fullstock longrifle]

I've made patchbox releases that worked flawlessly, and then I've made some that were a constant pain in the neck.  Recently I was restoring an original, 1820's period  York County rifle, when I had to do some wood work on the toe of the gun.  When I removed the toe plate, I noticed that even though the patchbox release pin was heavily rusted, the patchbox still worked well.  A closer look revealed why. 

The gunsmith had drilled his hole in the toe of the stock for the pin, and then sleeved it with a small piece of copper tubing.  The tubing was driven into the hole and the pin then easily slid inside of it without binding.  One last touch the gunsmith did to make it work without a hitch, was to drill a small hole in the patchbox spring where the pin would normally touch it, and then he filed the tip of the pin down so that it fit into the hole.  Once in place, the pin couldn't slide off the spring and would never be affected by binding in the stock.

I had never seen this type of arrangement before, but it was so simple and worked so well, I thought some of the modern day builders might want to give it a try.  It just goes to show you that the old boys really knew what they were doing, after over 190 years, the patchbox on this gun still worked perfectly.

FK

[flintriflesmith]

Good info. The hole in the spring and the trat on the pin were used on some VA rifles in the 1805-1815 militia contract period, and I've used it for years, but the copper tube is new to me.
Gary

[Jim Kibler]

I have seen the hole in the spring system on several signed or attributed Shroyer rifles as well.  I've used the system as well and it seems to work well. 

[Ky-Flinter]

FK,

Thanks for posting that information.  I'm currently installing my first patchbox and will use that techique.

-Ron

[Jim Kibler]

Not sure if it's really necessary, but I have swelled the width of the spring a touch in the area the hole passes through to avoid a weak spot in the spring.  The idea was to not create a point at which most of the bending is concentrated.

[Fullstock longrifle]

I was really surprised to see the little copper tube, I didn't know that they had such things during that time period.  I suppose it might have been a small piece of copper bend into a tube, but it looks seamless to me.  The maker was Samuel Gobrecht, and it was a better made Gobrecht than most I've seen.  I don't know that it's really necessary to use something like that either, but it has held up well through the years and it served old Samuel well. The old patchbox still works as well as the day it was made.  I'm always amazed at some of the little features the old gunsmiths came up with, I guess they had to be creative to stay ahead of the competition.

FK

[bgf]

I thought about that (particularly the sleeve) but wasn't sure it was something they would have done.  Thanks for letting us in on it.  The chance to see inside a York rifle isn't something many of us will ever get.  From the mechanical standpoint, couldn't the hole in the spring and the point on the pushrod in conjunction with the sleeve actually lead to binding up if alignment went off some due to stock movement?  With the sleeve holding the pushrod in alignment, I would think that a simple rounded end on the pushrod bearing on the spring would be good enough, if not perhaps better, or am I missing something.

PS.  The hole in the spring without the sleeve is a good idea, as long as there is a little room for the pushrod to move around.

[flintriflesmith]

... From the mechanical standpoint, couldn't the hole in the spring and the point on the pushrod in conjunction with the sleeve actually lead to binding up if alignment went off some due to stock movement?  With the sleeve holding the pushrod in alignment, I would think that a simple rounded end on the pushrod bearing on the spring would be good enough, if not perhaps better, or am I missing something.

PS.  The hole in the spring without the sleeve is a good idea, as long as there is a little room for the pushrod to move around.

I think you hit on it there in terms of how tight the push rod fits --- in the sleeve or just in the wood. By putting the hole in the latch and the teat on the rod I drill a fairly large clearance hole for the rod. The rod is sort of suspended in "air" between the spring and toe plate. That may eliminate any need for the copper tube. But, some guys wear a belt and suspenders!
Gary

[Joey R]

I  believe in insurance and that's why I wear a belt AND suspenders

[greybeard]

Joey;   That would make you a pesimist as opposed as an optomist?