Author Topic: casting round balls  (Read 9620 times)

eagle24

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casting round balls
« on: October 28, 2008, 07:30:35 PM »
What kind of setup do most of you use for melting and pouring your lead.  I have a mold and have some lead, but have not bought anything for melting and pouring.  I was trying to decide whether to use a ladle and melting pot or one of the lead melting furnaces.  What works well?  and what type ladle pours well?

Offline Robert Wolfe

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Re: casting round balls
« Reply #1 on: October 28, 2008, 07:36:51 PM »
I use an old stainless steel kitchen pot from Goodwill and a one burner electric hot plate from Walmart. To pour I use a small kitchen ladle also from Goodwill. It's cheap and it works fine - but I also don't pour thousands off balls like some guys do!
Robert Wolfe
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BrownBear

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Re: casting round balls
« Reply #2 on: October 28, 2008, 07:39:49 PM »
For simplicity and ease of use, it's hard to beat a basic electric pot with a hand ladle.  I started out that way and only moved to a bottom-pour pot when I started using gang moulds for pistol bullets long ago and well before I started muzzleloading.  I was casting and shooting 10-15,000 pistol bullets a year on top of the thousands I also cast for rifles.

Lots of folks casting for muzzleloaders never move from ladles to bottom pour and have no reason to do so even after many years.  I still use the bottom pour pot, but it's a matter of familiarity.  There's some extra maintenance involved along with the extra expense.  Casting for muzzleloaders is real basic, and there's no need to complicate things for a few hundred balls a year. 

Daryl

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Re: casting round balls
« Reply #3 on: October 29, 2008, 02:29:56 AM »
I have both bottom pour and top dipping methods in use.  I mostly go for the bottom pour electric nowadays.  the top-dipping pot holds about 80 pounds, so I have a special stove for melting it.  Takes about 20 min. to melt a ful pot. I made the stove from a white-gas Coleman and converted it to propane. It runs straight off the tank, so when cool, it's running 16 psi, not regulated to 2psi. That would take forever to melt- even 10 pounds.  I have the valve off a propane bottle silver welded onto the rod for control.  It's worked great for roughly 25 years now.

keweenaw

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Re: casting round balls
« Reply #4 on: October 29, 2008, 04:36:50 AM »
I just use a standard lead pot and lead ladle and heat the pot on my coleman stove.  I would have to be casting a lot more to justify going to an electric set up.


eagle24

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Re: casting round balls
« Reply #5 on: October 29, 2008, 04:04:37 PM »
Thanks for the input everyone.  I got my hands on an old cast iron ladle yesterday.  It is rusty, but in good condition.  Do I need to season it with some oil like you would season a cast iron skillet?  or is that a bad idea for using with lead?

Offline Longknife

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Re: casting round balls
« Reply #6 on: October 29, 2008, 04:32:52 PM »
Don't season it, Thew high temp. will just burn off the oil. Just wire brush the loose rust and go for it!!!!!...Ed
Ed Hamberg

Offline Dale Halterman

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Re: casting round balls
« Reply #7 on: October 29, 2008, 04:42:45 PM »
I use an old Lee bottom pouring pot that I got from my brother. After a while, the spout leaked so bad that plugged it and just use the pot for melting the lead and use a ladle that I got in a trade with it.

Dale H

Offline D. Taylor Sapergia

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Re: casting round balls
« Reply #8 on: October 29, 2008, 08:12:37 PM »
I have used all of the systems described here, but now use a bottom pour Lyman 20 pound electric pot.  The thermostat controls the lead temp exactly where I like it (set half way between 7 and 8).  I really like it.
D. Taylor Sapergia
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Offline longcruise

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Re: casting round balls
« Reply #9 on: October 29, 2008, 08:33:51 PM »
I use an old Lee bottom pouring pot that I got from my brother. After a while, the spout leaked so bad that plugged it and just use the pot for melting the lead and use a ladle that I got in a trade with it.

Dale H

I had the same problems with my lee bottom pour.  More trouble than it's worth.  I've considered plugging as you did but the diameter of the pot makes it a bit harder to use the ladle.  Still, makes for easily repeatable temps.  Otherwise, it's a garage sale coleman stove, a cast post and a lyman ladle.

With coleman fuel running 9 to 12 $ a gallon, I've gone to using unleaded regular in all my coleman stuff.  Not dual fuel but it works just fine.  May not run quite as hot, but certainly hot enough.
Mike Lee

William Worth

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Re: casting round balls
« Reply #10 on: October 30, 2008, 02:17:47 AM »
I am using a Lee bottom pour pot and really like it.  It began to have a leak problem and I emptied it out and poked around the outlet hole from the outside with a stiff piece of wire.  Problem solved. :)

Offline Paddlefoot

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Re: casting round balls
« Reply #11 on: October 30, 2008, 07:29:08 AM »
The Lee bottom pour pots are cheap but do a ggod job till they start leaking. I like the electric pots but the Lyman dipper with the side spout is the best for making really good balls. I found that for me I was always having trouble keeping the lead fluxed  and skimmed enough not to have crud pass through the bottom spout and make cavities in the balls. My most consistant results were with the ladle.
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Daryl

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Re: casting round balls
« Reply #12 on: October 30, 2008, 07:38:17 PM »
ALL bottom pour pots need the spout poked clean with a bent wire shoved up from the bottom at times. This is normal for all bottom pour pots, Saeco, Lyman or Lee. None are exempt.  The more balls and bullets you cast, the more often you need to poke the rod up from the bottom.

 I have a little 5 pound steel pot (Lee, I think) sitting underneath the spout to catch drips.  There is enough room in the 20 pound Lee to cast bulelts above this little pot. An empty sardine can would do the same, but I prefer the higher sides of the little 5 pound pot.  I can cast balls or bullets for an hour or more before I stop and empty this little pot and the sprues back into the melt and perhaps clean the spigot with the wire.  At times, there will be some dross hinder the plunger rod's movement and lead will drip quickly or dribble from the spigot.  Turning the shaft with a screw driver while pushing, moves the dross out of the way and stops the dribbling. I then flux and stirr and scrape the melt and pot to bring the dross to the top. I just let it sit up there where it covers the melt and reduces oxidation and dross buildup.

 Dipping is easier for a beginnner.  Once mastered, bottom pours cast must faster. The rate of casting is fast enough to allow using several moulds, changing off to a different mould as the one casting becomes too hot & needs to cool some.  Other moulds are pre-heating on the ledge of the pot, ready to start casting.

Offline Scott Bumpus

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Re: casting round balls
« Reply #13 on: October 31, 2008, 05:57:12 AM »
I have used bottom pour pots for many years casting bullets for 38 spec and 45 auto, also cast round balls for 45 cal.  Tried to cast some large bullets for 58 zouave and a 530 slug for 45-120.  These larger bullets would not cast worth a flip untill I switched to using a pour laddle, then no problem.  I think it has to do with being able to fill the mould fast enough.  Any thing 300 grain and up I use the laddle.
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don getz

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Re: casting round balls
« Reply #14 on: October 31, 2008, 01:55:16 PM »
When I was still shooting chunk guns, we cast our own balls.  We prefer to use a ladle, and when pouring, we would hold the mould over the pot on an angle and pour a whole ladle full of lead into the hole.  This keeps the lead hot in the
mould and you will find that you get far less bubbles, or inclusions in the balls.  You discover this when you start to weigh
each ball, and look for uniformity.....it will give you more uniform balls than a bottom pour lead pot.............Don

William Worth

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Re: casting round balls
« Reply #15 on: October 31, 2008, 02:56:06 PM »
I have wondered, what would sink to the bottom in a pot of melted lead, to stop up the drain in a bottom pour pot?  I have concluded that stoppage in the bottom of a pour pot must be an indicator that I need to stir the contents more and more aggressively so that impurities are encouraged to float up to the top to be skimmed off.

A freely running bottom pour spout fills any mold I have pretty darn quick (my biggest is.54)!  I didn't realize how much flow had diminished until I gave it a good cleaning, like going from an old man pee dribble to "cow-@#$$%&*-on-a-flat-rock" type flow.

Daryl

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Re: casting round balls
« Reply #16 on: October 31, 2008, 07:18:51 PM »
A clean system really fils the moulds quickly. I have no problem casting 560gr. for the .45 rifle, or the 600gr. round balls for Tayor's 10 bore Bess.  The moulds all fill well, but as DP noted, the pouring spout has to be without any blockages- hense - bent wire trick. I hold the wire in a meduim set of needle-nose plyers - with the little 5 pound pot underneath to catch the bending stream of lead that comes out.