Plug installation

[mjm46@bellsouth.net]

I haven't made a horn in several years, but when I did I always set the bottom plugs with a little epoxy, mainly as a sealant. Really make an airtight horn and doesn't show unless you have a very transparent horn.

I know it's far from politically correct but I was wondering if others do this and those that don't, What do you do?

[tuffy]

I have always used wax and wooden pegs on the plug. Makes it waterproof and safer. The tighter that plug is fastened to the horn, the more dangerous it is on a blow out. Kinda like the less shrapnel the better. Just my belief.

[Black Hand]

Beeswax and wooden pegs.  Makes an air-tight, waterproof horn.

[Ahtuwisae]

I prefer beeswax and wooden pegs.

The alternative if you want to use an adhesive is to use Hide glue.  it also provides an airtight seal but will come free with heat if the need ever arises.  it is all natural and is still available at most harware stores.  it is still use extensively for makers of guitars and violins.

[Tim Crosby]

 One way is to fit the finished base to the horn by heating the horn and pressing the base in. Probably take two or three test fits, taking a little more off the base on the lathe as you go. On mine I usually have the base fit before any finish goes on it (May take a little more fitting) and the horn itself is finished when the base is fit.
 Once you have it fitting and are ready to assemble heat the portion of the base that will go in the horn and rub some bees wax on it more is better, also heat the horn slightly and rub more bees wax inside it where the base will fit. Get both pieces warm, I use a hair dryer and push them together. With your third hand drill the first peg hole, I angle them slightly toward the neck of the horn, at 6 and tap in a peg, now 12, 3 and 9, all the while pressing the base in to the horn. You will have some excess wax to buff off, becomes part of the finish.
  Now blow in it and see if it leaks, no leak good. If there is a leak heat the base and the horn where they come together and them blow in the horn, that should fill the leak with wax. If that doesn’t work find the leak by listening or light a candle and blow in the horn while rotating it close to the flame of a candle, that will pinpoint your leak. Slice off a  t-h-i-n piece of wax and press it into the area where the leak is, now hit it with heat and press it in with your fingers along with a little more heat to work it into the crack.
 If the initial fitting is done right there should be no leaks but Mr. Murphy has a way of getting his dues at times. Hope this helps. If it is not clear or I missed something just ask.

  Tim C.

[smorrison]

When I started making horns I used epoxy to glue the base plugs in.  Then for awhile I used simian hide glue (gorilla glue) but tired real quickly of scraping off the foamed glue that would leak out around the edges.  Now, when I do glue a base plug (and mostly because it is a bit of a loose fit) I use Titebond III, but good old Elmer's would work just as well.  I'm weaning myself from using glue on a base plug, instead striving to get a good fit of the base much as Tim has laid out.  Though I haven't set a plug with bees wax as he does.  Have to try that...

Scott

[The Original Griz]

I try to get as good a fit as I can much like some of the others. But the very last thing I do is to melt beeswax and heat the horn, Pour a good amount into the horn and swirl it around and pour out the excess. This seals the wood, staple ends and the wood to horn connection all from the inside. Been doing it that way since 1994, no problems so far and if there ever was, I never heard about them. But that is just the way I do it.

[Tim Crosby]

I try to get as good a fit as I can much like some of the others. But the very last thing I do is to melt beeswax and heat the horn, Pour a good amount into the horn and swirl it around and pour out the excess. This seals the wood, staple ends and the wood to horn connection all from the inside. Been doing it that way since 1994, no problems so far and if there ever was, I never heard about them. But that is just the way I do it.

   That brings to mind something I saw, I think,  in MB back in the 60s or 70s, they used to have little tips a fillers. One of them talked about watering down some Elmer’s, pouring it in the horn, swirling it around, blowing in the horn to force the glue into any gaps and then pouring it out.  I don’t think I ever tried it.

 Tim C.

[The Original Griz]

When you pour the hot beeswax in, if you hold your thumb over the tip opening while you are swirling the wax around, it will build up pressure from the heat, I guess, and it will force the wax out through any openings between the horn and cap. I kinda watch doing that cause it will spray wax all over the place if you hold it too tight. I try to do it just a little and don't let it start squirting. let her cool and you won't blow any air through it. I was just at a shoot 2 weeks a ago and we got caught in a major cloud burst, My powder never got wet
One other benefit of this is, I clinch over both my staples, cap and throat, so when I pour the wax in it seals the ends of the staples in the cap and when I pour out the excess, I make sure I pour it out over the wire end that are clinched over in the throat so they get sealed also....