Author Topic: Sheet Steel  (Read 3653 times)

eagle24

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Sheet Steel
« on: July 26, 2011, 05:43:16 PM »
I need some steel for entry and rr pipes.  I'd like to find some 19 gauge cold rolled (.041") but can only find 18 gauge (.048") and 20 gauge (.0359").  Is the 20 gauge too thin?  18 gauge too thick?  What are you guys using?

Offline Dennis Glazener

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Re: Sheet Steel
« Reply #1 on: July 26, 2011, 06:04:07 PM »
I use 57 Chevy sheet metal, from the rear quarter panel if I remember correctly ;D
It works fine for me for thimbles, barrel tennons etc.

I had a guy tell me one time that the best working metal he had used for thimbles/entry pipe etc was the metal from used propane/mapp tanks. I have a couple I have saved to try but keep forgetting and use the auto sheet metal. I think the automotive sheet metal that I have is .042". Its new, left over from a repair that I did.
Dennis
« Last Edit: July 26, 2011, 06:07:30 PM by Dennis Glazener »
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eagle24

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Re: Sheet Steel
« Reply #2 on: July 26, 2011, 06:18:54 PM »
I use 57 Chevy sheet metal, from the rear quarter panel if I remember correctly ;D
It works fine for me for thimbles, barrel tennons etc.

I had a guy tell me one time that the best working metal he had used for thimbles/entry pipe etc was the metal from used propane/mapp tanks. I have a couple I have saved to try but keep forgetting and use the auto sheet metal. I think the automotive sheet metal that I have is .042". Its new, left over from a repair that I did.
Dennis

Well, I don't have a 57 chevy.  Got a 68 mustang fastback, but I'm not cutting a piece of metal off for rr pipes. :o  I've got some spent Mapp and Propane bottles laying around.  I guess if you punched some holes in them, they would be safe to cut with a hacksaw??

Offline Greg S Day

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Re: Sheet Steel
« Reply #3 on: July 26, 2011, 06:24:50 PM »
Maybe shoot'em for target practice to perforate them from a distance first.
He Conquers Who Endures

Offline bgf

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Re: Sheet Steel
« Reply #4 on: July 26, 2011, 07:13:01 PM »
I would use either -- the 20g more for plain pipes or ones with stamped in detail or the 18g, esp. if you want to file in the details.  I used 16 g and it is too heavy, but I didn't worry about filing through and there was plenty of room to ream it out for a good fit on the ramrod.  18g should be better, maybe still a little heavier than necessary, but it shouldn't cause you any trouble forming it. 

Offline Dennis Glazener

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Re: Sheet Steel
« Reply #5 on: July 26, 2011, 08:20:24 PM »
Quote
Maybe shoot'em for target practice to perforate them from a distance first.
That's what I was going to do. A 22 should take the threaded area off, like shooting squirrels! I would like to try them. The guy that told me about them was a gun builder. He said it was some of the best working steel he had used. He said he guessed it was that way in case it exploded in a fire.
Dennis
"I never considered a difference of opinion in politics, in religion, in philosophy, as cause for withdrawing from a friend" - Thomas Jefferson

Rasch Chronicles

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Re: Sheet Steel
« Reply #6 on: July 27, 2011, 07:46:29 AM »
Ummm fellows,

You could always put the torch head or gas line on and open the valve completely and saw to your hearts content...

If you stick it in the sun, it will purge the gas to a level so minute that there would be no chance of it doing anything at all.

Best Regards,
Albert “Afghanus” Rasch
The Rasch Outdoor Chronicles™
Preserving and Tanning Small Hides