Lock panel detail question

[Meteorman]

Anyone care to share what tool they use to create the lack panel detail shown at arrows in pic below ?
I'm weary of butcherin' up my lock panels, so I'm looking for a better way.
Seems this detail is what makes the lock panel jump out.
(The pic is from Dixon's by the way - not one of my jobs !!!!)
thanks,
Mike

[rich pierce]

I do all the shaping and tang carving first, then the borders there which often stand a bit proud are set in using the stabbing technique or a V chisel. 
A V chisel is quick but does not give a sharp shelf look.  The stabbing technique is more controlled.  Some will use a knife and others a chisel-shaped tool to stab directly down. Then the background is relieved with a skew chisel.

I often use a tool with a rounded end about 5/8" in diameter, with a razor edge.  I can roll this along the sketched in line with good control and great speed compared to other methods- but that's just me.

[mjm46@bellsouth.net]

there is probably a better way, but the way I do it is I cut an outline with a small palm pushed veiner then cut to the veiner cut with a small flat chisel to remove material from the oposite side. Seems to work for me.

[David Rase]

After I have drawn the design I stab it in with various gouges, then remove the wood with a carving knife.  I then go in and scrape the background.  Basically I treat it like grounding for relief carving.
Dave

[smart dog]

Hi Mike,
I think one problem that many folks have is that they start cutting the lock panel molding prematurely before they have created the right background profile.  I shape the lock area first with gouges, then round files, and then I smooth the contours with round scrapers.  I essentially finish the panels as if I was not going to add a decorative molding.  I want a clean, smooth transition from the curves of the forearm and wrist into the flat lock panels.  Then I outline my molding and use knives and chisels to punch in the edge very slightly.  Some makers use a V gouge to outline the edge. Again, using chisels and knives I back cut into the edge to remove background and create a slightly raised edge.  Once the background is scraped smooth, I am often done.  If I choose to shape the molding further, I use small gouges and tiny curved scrapers only.  

dave  

[Rootsy]

I have been using a modified X-acto knife but if you catch the grain just right it can run off course if you are not careful.. I then back cut and clean out with a skew chisel.  I'm liking some of these other methods mentioned... The X-acto is difficult to control depth of relief with.

[Jim Kibler]

As others have suggested, it's just carving.  Treat it the same as any other stock carving.  Search the site  and you should get many responses.

[alyce-james]

Rick; Made one of your style tools this morning. Began on a sample piece of curly maple, worked well and had fun executing a finished look to the panel. Thanks for the post. AJ

[Meteorman]

thanks all.
I do a lot of X-acto work on my inlets with passable success, but was also using it on carving outlines, with less success.
I believe i will cease that practice in favor of the stab-in technique.
/m