Help me plan a build....

[paxfish]

My first post here guys.  Thanks for the good info you've logged over the years!

Having shot my first blackpowder deer last week (TC Hawken .45), I realize I have no desire to hunt with my 12ga anymore.   Heck I might even change to a long bow for bow season!

I'd like to build a nice classic rifle and was hoping you could help me plan it out.

I'm thinking:
-.50 to .54 roundball
-solid 100 yard hunting effectiveness
-rifled barrel
-I hunt from stationary positions, so it can be a longer rifle
-nice tiger maple stock
-a classic design with some history around it - maybe even close to period correct parts etc.
-Iron fittings might be OK

I have home hobbyist wood working skills, build fishing plugs, minor cabinetry, good wood finishing skills.  Probably could blue/brown a barrel, but not inlet a stock.

What's the best way to tackle this?
Do any guns come to mind that meet the above criteria?

[Glenn]

The idea that first comes to mind is either a York or Lancaster, Leman, or maybe a full stock Hawken.  Iron/steel mounts should be correctly available for all of these if that is what you want.

[paxfish]

Just looking those up, at first glance, I think I like the line of the York better than the Lancaster.   The Tennessee Mountain rifle looks interesting also:



I do like the easy cleaning barrel of my Hawken.   Are most of these other rifles using a similar easy-to-remove barrel?

Thanks,

[smylee grouch]

How about a nice half stock English style gun with hooked breech?    Smylee

[54Bucks]

Just looking those up, at first glance, I think I like the line of the York better than the Lancaster.   The Tennessee Mountain rifle looks interesting also:



I do like the easy cleaning barrel of my Hawken.   Are most of these other rifles using a similar easy-to-remove barrel?

Thanks,

 The York, Lancaster, or Tennessee Mt. rifles wouldn't normally have a hooked breech that allows the barrel to be removed for easy cleaning. Almost all fullstocks have a solid 1pc breech that has a bolt thru the tang/wrist into the trigger plate and pins or keys that hold the forearm and forestock and barrel together.
 You mentioned that your experience would not allow barrel inletting or carving. I'de suggest you look into kits such as those from Jim Chambers. Or the different precarved stocks, kits, and parts available thru Track of the Wolf. That may narrow down what your preferences are.

[Bob Roller]

My recommendation would be a 1" 54 caliber,iron (steel)trim with perhaps a butt plate close to that of a shotgun in shape and checkered to prevent sllppage on your shoulder.
A 54 caliber round ball goosed along by 90-100 grains of 3fg is a devastating load and adequate for 100 yard shots.Keep in mind a round ball sheds velocity quickly and with that comes loss of energy needed for a clean quick kill. This same ball weighs but 230 grains and I have a gun in my pocket that throws 250 grains of lead with each shot.It's a 44 Special.
My personal idea of a ML hunting rifle is a British styled .451 loaded with a 500 grain hollow point but that is a later type of rifle.
Good luck with this project and remember to measure twice and cut once.

Bob Roller

[Standing Bear]

Some good suggestions here. 

From me, find some local gatherings - matches, rendevouz, etc - to see and feel different rifles.  Also look at lots of guns on the web.  Track of the Wolf, Tennesse Valley Mfg and Tenessee Valey MLs and many others out there.  Several offer kits from just a pile of matched parts with a lot of inletting to be done to guns in the white that only require browning and staining.

Starting from scratch, I would get a Southern Mtn/Tennessee flintlock rifle with a .54 barrel and iron furniture.

Enjoy the trip
TC

[Daryl]

A deer rifle - any chance of hunting moose or elk - or maybe Big bear?

If building merely a deer rifle, I'd go with a Marshal or Lancaster/Virginia style .50 cal. rifle in a longrifle.

The Jaeger and English-styled flint rifles were the height of design for best flintlock hunting rifles - shorter in barrel and better geometry for fast and accurate shooting.  This grew into the cap-lock Sporting Rifle of the 1850's of English Design in caplock rifles - none better in design or function.

One must decide. Of all the designs of flinters, I'd go with a E. Marshal in a longer gun or perhaps better/maybe, a Jaeger with 31" bl. as being the ultimate in a flint .54 cal. hunting rifle.  That size will handle future hunts for larger game than deer, yet if properly loaded, will give great power and good range for deer as well. 

I think the Marshal could be built in .50 or .54, while the Jaeger should be .54 - just a preference.

Do not even think Energy nor any other modern #'s game have anything to do with a round ball's killing prowess.

I have witnessed a .535" round ball kill a big bull moose at a lasered range of 170yards. The ball was started with a fairly light charge of only 100gr. 2F- perhaps giving 1,500fps, maybe 1,600fps velocity from it's 28" bl.  The ball hit perfectly, centering a rib, then lung, heart, the other lung, passed between the ribs and stopped against the hide on the off side of the moose - total penetration side to side of perhaps 30" of moose,leaving a 1/2" hole through everything. The moose ran hard for 40 yards dropping dead mid-stride, totally bleed out.  What better performance could you ask for from a round ball?

You are right, the guide had no business letting the hunter take that shot - he did (Taylor nor I would have permitted it) and they got lucky with a good hit. I only print this to show the killing power of the load.  The ball possessed, as near as we can figure, about 400fpe at 170yards.  Modern writers state that is 600FPE less than needed to kill a deer and 1,100fpe less than needed to kill a moose.  There is something very wrong with FPE numbers and subsequent statements of killing power.   

[Dphariss]

My first post here guys.  Thanks for the good info you've logged over the years!

Having shot my first blackpowder deer last week (TC Hawken .45), I realize I have no desire to hunt with my 12ga anymore.   Heck I might even change to a long bow for bow season!

I'd like to build a nice classic rifle and was hoping you could help me plan it out.

I'm thinking:
-.50 to .54 roundball
-solid 100 yard hunting effectiveness
-rifled barrel
-I hunt from stationary positions, so it can be a longer rifle
-nice tiger maple stock
-a classic design with some history around it - maybe even close to period correct parts etc.
-Iron fittings might be OK

I have home hobbyist wood working skills, build fishing plugs, minor cabinetry, good wood finishing skills.  Probably could blue/brown a barrel, but not inlet a stock.

What's the best way to tackle this?
Do any guns come to mind that meet the above criteria?

Order a kit from Jim Chambers Flintlocks. This is the beginners best bet all around and any will make a good traditional rifle..
For deer hunting 50-54 is good go with the heavier weight barrel.
B weight 50s are too light IMO.

Dan

[Kermit]

Daryl--I appreciate your hunting ethics vis a vis range. There is a difference between hunting and shooting.

[Long John]

My favorite rifle is a 54. 



It was built as a hunting rifle and it does the job very well in my estimation.  It carries well and I can hold on target well.  I can hit with it. 

I must admit that a long-barreled rifle is not well suited for the little hang-on tree stands I use for bow hunting.  That's OK.  By the time the gun season rolls around I am sick of tree stands and prefer to walk.

When thinking about a rifle pick a design that will carry well and that you can hit with.  You will spend far more time carrying the rifle than shooting it but if you can't hit with it there wasn't any sense in carrying it all that way.  Lancaster rifles are very shooter friendly.  Jaegers are also a good pick. 

Remember that a longer lighter rifle will shoot as good as a shorter heavier one but is more friendly to carry.  The rifle pictured above is all of 8.25 pounds yet is close to 65 inches in length. That's the way I wanted it!

Best Regards,

JMC