Author Topic: Under rib  (Read 6111 times)

FRJ

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Under rib
« on: October 22, 2011, 02:11:08 AM »
Next question. Do you use machine screws to attach the under rib or do you solder? If you solder do u use acid core, rosin or silver? Thanks Frank

Dave Dolliver

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Re: Under rib
« Reply #1 on: October 22, 2011, 03:01:02 AM »
On an octagonal barrel with sufficient thickness, I silver solder the ram rod pipes to the rib and attatch the rib to the barrel with 6-32 Weaver scope base screws from Brounell's.

On a round barrel (usually a smoothbore) there is not usually enough thickness for screws and 430 degree solder is used.  Acid flux, tin both surfaces, clamp and heat from the barrel side not the rib side.  The pipes are silver soldered (900 degree + or -) to the rib first, then the assembly is soldered to the barrel.

Dave Dolliver

FRJ

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Re: Under rib
« Reply #2 on: October 22, 2011, 04:01:57 AM »
Dave, Thanks for the help!!!I'll be getting it done tomorrow. Frank

caliber45

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Re: Under rib
« Reply #3 on: October 22, 2011, 04:23:53 AM »
Frank -- Regardless of thickness of barrel, I invariably solder the underrib to the barrel. Why use screws? Can you imagine a situation that would require you to remove it? Best solder I've found is Brownells SWIF solder; pricey, but strong and easy-to-use. Also use it to solder underlugs. Never had a failure and much less bother than tapping for screws. -- paulallen, tucson az

Offline kutter

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Re: Under rib
« Reply #4 on: October 22, 2011, 05:06:12 AM »
Soft solder everything together at once. It's an easy job after you've done alot of SxS re-rib jobs.

If you use acid flux, use it to tin the surfaces only , then thoroughly wash & neutralize them to remove the acid before assembly.
When assembling, use rosin flux.
That way you won't have nasty after rust problems from the acid later on.
Not as bad of a problem with an underrib as doing SxS work, unless it's a hollow style, but the stuff can really eat away at the barrel and rib.

Putting a browned bbl into boiling water later on in an attempt to kill the acid rusting problem will return you a blue barrel.,, and may not cure the after rust problem completely either.

Offline b bogart

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Re: Under rib
« Reply #5 on: October 22, 2011, 05:15:08 AM »
I just soldered a rib and both pipes at the same time. Cleaned and prepped the barrel, rib, rib where the pipes attach and the pipes. Laid down some solder paste on barrel and clamped the rib down. A little more solder paste where the pipes fit on the rib and clamped them too. Heated the whole assembly with a propane torch. Viola! Smacked with a wood mallet several times and no loose sounds. Clean up was comprised of cleaning off the flux that ran down the barrel sides and oiling the bore! SWEET!!!

Offline Dphariss

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Re: Under rib
« Reply #6 on: October 22, 2011, 05:38:51 AM »
Next question. Do you use machine screws to attach the under rib or do you solder? If you solder do u use acid core, rosin or silver? Thanks Frank

Use screws, 5-40 is best.

Just be careful of the wall thickness and hole depth.
If soldering I would not use anything higher temp than the lead free silver bearing plumbers solder.

Dan
He who dares not offend cannot be honest. Thomas Paine

Offline b bogart

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Re: Under rib
« Reply #7 on: October 22, 2011, 05:43:38 AM »
Dan the stuff I used is silver bearing and has a 430f melt. It was so easy and took not much time either. If a novice like me can do it........ well ya know the rest!  8)

Offline Dphariss

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Re: Under rib
« Reply #8 on: October 22, 2011, 03:07:52 PM »
Dan the stuff I used is silver bearing and has a 430f melt. It was so easy and took not much time either. If a novice like me can do it........ well ya know the rest!  8)
Should work fine. I did one years ago on a gas stove.
I just don't like soft soldered rod pipes. I would rather silver solder them to the rib then put the rib on the barrel.

Dan
He who dares not offend cannot be honest. Thomas Paine

keweenaw

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Re: Under rib
« Reply #9 on: October 25, 2011, 12:08:02 AM »
With a hollow rib it's a good idea to tin the entire inside of the rib and the barrel that will be hidden by the rib as this will prevent any corrosion if some moisture should ever get in.  I use liquid rosin as a flux for this type of work.  It take a lot of care on the temperature to not scorch the flux when you're doing the tinning so you need to use an soldering iron.  The SWIF solder will also work fine.  Avoid the acids all together.  There is no reason whatsoever to use anything other than a lead alloy solder to attach the rib.  I'm with Dave on soldering the thimbles to the rib with a high temp silver solder before the rib is attached to the  barrel.  The greater strength really isn't necessary unless you have a loop for a sling on the thimble of a rifle but doing it this way means they don't move when you're settling the rib into place.

Tom