ram rod channel

[long rifle]

ok,,never used a balnk before so this is a new bronc to saddle,,yes,,i am a precarved stock guy,,,SO!I am going to do the ram rod groove,,can anyone gine me what to use to do this?Is there a drill to finish the forestock end?At one time log cabin made a two fluted drill just for this,,they dont have them anymore,,so,where could I find this or ,,just what and how do you boys do this?I do need info from the start like the beggining griove at the end,,route the channel and what cutters,,thank you as im trully in the dark here,,mickey

[Odd Fellow]

I scribe the centerline then I put it on the table saw to just under the depth it needs then I cut on a bandsaw then I scrape the grove out to the right size and depth then I use a brad point bit welded onto a steel rod of the same diameter then I clamp the bit down with a grooved board and the I drill her out.

[mjm46@bellsouth.net]

You can get the long ramrod drills from TOW in different diameters.

[David R. Pennington]

I make my own ramrod drills and its easy and cheap. Buy a piece of drill rod of the appropriate size and buy a good quality brad point drill of the right size. I lay both in a section of old bedrail angle iron butt to butt and braze them together with oxeygen/acetylene torch. I preheat the beadrail under the joint and then heat both pieces and braze. I clean up the joint with a file and test it by clamping one piece in the vice and twisting the other with vise grips. If either the wrench or the vice slips before the braze fails I know I have a good joint. I know all the machinists out there will cringe at my primitive line up technique but I drill my holes with a bit brace so high speed perfect balance isn't required. If you use extra long barrel you might need to add an extra few inches to the drill rod. I can only buy 36" pieces at my local supplier. I usually take an old junk auger bit cut off the shank and braze to the opposite end and I'm now long enough to do 44" barrells, plus I have the square taper to fit my brace. Couple of reasons I like the brace. One is I can feel whats going on better, and because you have to pull out often and clear the chips I don't have the weight of a heavy electric drill hanging on the end of my bit while I'm clearing chips. Also should say that I don't drill entire length. Cut back to near finished ramrod entry hole and hand cut groove. Use gouge and broken rat tail file. Make a couple guide blocks for your drill bit to clamp over groove by drilling a block then saw in half lengthwise. I use mutton tallow and beeswax to lube the drill bit. This is one of the tasks in building that is quite fun I think.

[Dphariss]

Make sure the rod groove is parallel to the bore vertically (see below) and straight from muzzle to breech horizontally if this is off toward the lock it will enter the lock inlet. At its deepest it should be within 3/16 of the barrel at the muzzle perhaps slightly less depending on the style being built. It must allow clearance for the underlugs holding the barrel. There also needs to be clearance for the front lock bolt. So the clearance at the breech of the barrel needs to be near 3/16 as well.
Once the groove is at the proper depth and is parallel with bore blocks can be made to hold the drill in the groove with minimal clearance.
Cut a flat, vertical surface where the drill will enter and then drill the hole using a gundrill type drill as sold by Track of the Wolf, I make my own.


 They can be made from 48"  mild steel rod from Ace hardware as this one was if you have or have access to a milling machine.  I have made or used almost everything except a spade and none will run as straight. But it WILL run where its pointed so if this is wrong the hole will be too.
Drill, in very small increments pulling the drill for clear the chips every 1/2" or so,  to the front lug of the TG or to the end of the barrel which ever comes first.

After drilling, if you so desire, you may deepen the channel slightly so the center rod pipe(s) is closer to the   to conform to the swamp. But I really don't see a need. But thats just me.
Dan

[Michigan Flinter]

I do about the same with a bradpoint drill but I have the main length of drill about three foot long and then I add one foot lengths that are drilled and tapped for a 1/4 -20 thread with one end having a set screw added so there isn't alot of drill to bother with at the start.I have the foreend ramrod grove down to finish height and add the pipes thus I have two or three drill bushings to guide the drill. Make sure to clear chips often.