Author Topic: A convert to Hoppes  (Read 8616 times)

Offline Roger B

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A convert to Hoppes
« on: January 08, 2012, 01:47:52 PM »
Went out to resight my .54 (dropped; new front thimble and front sight  :'( ) and it's new .40 target barrel.  Used the new bottle Hoppes black powder solvent and really liked it as a patch lube.  Super slick and clean shooting.  I'm sold.
Roger B.
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roundball

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Re: A convert to Hoppes
« Reply #1 on: January 08, 2012, 03:46:08 PM »
Amen...

Offline hanshi

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Re: A convert to Hoppes
« Reply #2 on: January 08, 2012, 09:34:52 PM »
A second Amen!
!Jozai Senjo! "always present on the battlefield"
Young guys should hang out with old guys; old guys know stuff.

Macon Due

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Re: A convert to Hoppes
« Reply #3 on: January 09, 2012, 02:01:04 AM »
A 3rd here!
Macon

Daryl

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Re: A convert to Hoppes
« Reply #4 on: January 09, 2012, 03:22:27 AM »
I've found only LHV and Spit is it's equal or perhaps it's better but maybe not.

Offline Scout

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Re: A convert to Hoppes
« Reply #5 on: January 09, 2012, 04:56:55 AM »
She ain't Purdy but she shoots real good !

Offline Roger B

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Re: A convert to Hoppes
« Reply #6 on: January 09, 2012, 04:57:13 AM »
Whereas I would have had to short start the .395 and .535 balls with a .020 patch previously; These could be thumped down flush with the muzzle, the patch cut, and pushed on down with the rod.  Never been able to do that before and accuracy was excellent.  I'll bet they put Boelube in the stuff ;D
Roger B.
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Offline WaterFowl

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Re: A convert to Hoppes
« Reply #7 on: January 13, 2012, 03:53:57 AM »
Use Hoppe's in my rifles and smooth bores.... good stuff....hands down easiest lube to use while range shooting.
Sent my 58 cal. per.gm 32" 1-70 barreled rife along with a coworker to use during our late muzzle loader season.Rat's.
He had no shots...Kept the rifle loaded for a week (pole barn no heat) nipple covered and bore taped over... 20's at night upper 30's day time temps...I pulled the load when he brought it back...this is what I found.........

This barrel gets cleaned with warm water and dawn...hot water rinse...dried within seconds..wd40 next..wiped dry then drowned in rem oil...I'm on the anal side of on bore condition...this barrel was as clean as new....
there were no visible rust marks left in the bore and nothing felt on my skin tight patched jag...
This was the second time I have encountered this in different barrels.....I will still use this to hunt with and adjust my behavior and pull the ball each night.
Thought I'd share my hands on experience...hope this helps others ...dan

Offline Roger B

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Re: A convert to Hoppes
« Reply #8 on: January 13, 2012, 05:05:32 PM »
I personally appreciate the post, though I never leave a rifle loaded that long and in those conditions.  This must be why Benjamin Mills would warrant his guns for life unless they were loaned out.  I'm glad your rifle wasn't damaged.  The other posts seemed to indicate that a day or so with Hoppes doesn't seem to cause rusting..  Anyone else have experiences?
Roger B.
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Daryl

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Re: A convert to Hoppes
« Reply #9 on: January 13, 2012, 05:31:28 PM »
Taylor's test showed no rusting, but no red of any sort. Week long test, much heavier condensation due to considerably greater temperature extremes, from -20 to room temp, every day.  No powder damage from the Hoppe's either and no inbetween wad or barrier used. He used much older "Hoppe's #9 Plus".

roundball

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Re: A convert to Hoppes
« Reply #10 on: January 13, 2012, 06:15:43 PM »
I love Hoppes PLUS for the range but I never use it for hunting...Natural Lube only for about 20 years.

And the experience above is just one more unexpected example of why I refuse to leave my guns loaded, regardless of the type lube, the conditions, the amount of time, etc...doesn't matter to me.

It's just too simple, easy, quick, and cheap to pull the load after every hunt and go out fresh the next trip.
Others mileage may vary...

Offline hanshi

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Re: A convert to Hoppes
« Reply #11 on: January 13, 2012, 11:21:16 PM »
I use Hoppes both at the range and in the woods but when I go into the woods my gun will be lubed with Bore Butter or something similar for that first shot.  All reloading is with Hoppes.  If the gun is not fired at all I leave it loaded and have never had a problem.
!Jozai Senjo! "always present on the battlefield"
Young guys should hang out with old guys; old guys know stuff.

Offline Pete G.

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Re: A convert to Hoppes
« Reply #12 on: January 15, 2012, 07:00:34 PM »
I left a gun loaded overnight and then never got back to the woods. Forgot about it for a while and when I pulled the ball there was rust on the patch and a rough spot in the bore where the ball was. Hoppes is good for range shooting but I won't use it for a hunting load again, and will not leave a gun loaded again either.

Daryl

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Re: A convert to Hoppes
« Reply #13 on: January 15, 2012, 08:40:11 PM »

...dan

This picture cured me of using it for hunting.  The oxidation is obvious.  It's just too easy just to use something else, like Mink Oil or Neetsfoot Oil - like I used to.

Offline WaterFowl

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Re: A convert to Hoppes
« Reply #14 on: January 16, 2012, 05:34:19 AM »
Not a problem for day trips..this was a full week... :o
shot a round of trap today used it on the wool wads.

started using deer tallow/bear grease for squirrels in the.36cal last couple of weeks so far so good.
If it would only make them sit still it would be more better!

Offline Roger B

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Re: A convert to Hoppes
« Reply #15 on: January 16, 2012, 05:08:12 PM »
Regarding mink oil....How hard do you have to squeeze the mink and don't they object ;D?  Seriously, is there a source for mink oil besides Track?  I have a can of real sperm oil (Brownells) from an estate.  Should that work well for hunting? 
Roger B.
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Offline Dphariss

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Re: A convert to Hoppes
« Reply #16 on: January 16, 2012, 06:54:08 PM »
Not a problem for day trips..this was a full week... :o
shot a round of trap today used it on the wool wads.

started using deer tallow/bear grease for squirrels in the.36cal last couple of weeks so far so good.
If it would only make them sit still it would be more better!

One question does the ingredient list include water?
http://www.hoppes.com/au_msds.html
Answer?
Yes. 60%+
This is why I don't use this stuff or other water based lubes for anything but range use and usually not then.
The various water soluble oil mixes used for cleaning BP have been known for promoting rust since people stated making "moose milk" or what ever back the late 60s or early 70s. One problem is they will not clean fouling any better and usually not as well, as plain water.
One other point anything with alcohol in it surely contains water as well.

Tallow if its properly made will not rust a bore at least not in a week or more being loaded in a clean bore in a dry climate.
But I would boil it 2-3 times in clean water to purify it. I have some I made from beef fat from the butcher that works very well and loads easy. Not sure its as accurate and some of the "non-lubricant" patch lubes though. Need to to more shooting.

Dan


INGREDIENT    % WT
1 .Water --
2.  Hydrotreated Heavy Naphthenic Distillate  10 - 30%
3. Triethanolamine   1-5%
4. Ethyl Alcohol   1-5%
5. Kerosene    1-5%
6. Triazine    0.5 - 1.5%

Triethanolamine is used primarily as an emulsifier and surfactant. It is a common ingredient in formulations used for both industrial and consumer products. The triethanolamine neutralises fatty acids, adjusts and buffers the pH, and solubilises oils and other ingredients that are not completely soluble in water. Some common products in which triethanolamine is found are liquid laundry detergents, dishwashing liquids, general cleaners, hand cleaners, polishes, metalworking fluids, paints and printing inks.[3]

In pharmaceutics, triethanolamine is the active ingredient of some ear drops used to treat impacted earwax. It also serves as a pH balancer in many different cosmetic products - ranging from cleansing creams and milks, skin lotions, eye gels, moisturizers, shampoos, shaving foams etc. TEA is a fairly strong base: a 1% solution has a pH of approximately 10, whereas the pH of skin is below pH 7. Cleansing milk/cream emulsions based on TEA are particularly good at removing makeup. Because of its high alkalinity and the possibility that it converts to nitrosamines, its use in cosmetics was once expected to diminish. It is still widely used as of 2009.


Triazine
The best known 1,3,5-triazine derivative is melamine with three amino substituents used in the manufacture of resins. Another triazine extensively used in resins is benzoguanamine. Triazine compounds are often used as the basis for various herbicides such as cyanuric chloride (2,4,6-trichloro-1,3,5-triazine). Chlorine-substituted triazines are also used as reactive dyes. These compounds react through a chlorine group with hydroxyl groups present in cellulose fibres in nucleophilic substitution, the other triazine positions contain chromophores. Mixtures of Triazines and water are also used to remove H2S from natural gas.

A series of 1,2,4-triazine derivatives known as BTPs have been considered in the liquid-liquid extraction community as possible extractants for use in the advanced nuclear reprocessing of used fuel.[1][2][3][4][5] BTPs are molecules containing a pyridine ring bonded to two 1,2,4-triazin-3-yl groups.
He who dares not offend cannot be honest. Thomas Paine

Offline Dphariss

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Re: A convert to Hoppes
« Reply #17 on: January 16, 2012, 06:57:43 PM »
Regarding mink oil....How hard do you have to squeeze the mink and don't they object ;D?  Seriously, is there a source for mink oil besides Track?  I have a can of real sperm oil (Brownells) from an estate.  Should that work well for hunting? 
Roger B.

Sperm oil is the best. But its hard to come by. Usually shoots better if squeezed mostly dry so the patch is just a little oily.
Wetter will load easier in a fouled bore.
Pure Neatfoot is good to. But I would try putting it in the fridge to settle out more fat. Then pour off the oil if possible. Neatsfoot is basically liquid tallow. Some Neatfoot is really slick.

Dan
He who dares not offend cannot be honest. Thomas Paine

Daryl

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Re: A convert to Hoppes
« Reply #18 on: January 16, 2012, 07:07:57 PM »
Good to know, stuff, Dan.  I've used straight Neetsfoot Oil from the can and it worked well, too, I've used a lot of Track's mink oil.  Someone local asked me if the Mink Oil at the hardware store was the same as Track's. I've never seen it at the hardware store and forgot to look - so it's there. I asked if it was liquid or a grease and he said liquid, so no, it isn't the same, but might be better. Roger - I'd check the can to make sure it was pure & without harmful additives.
The nice thing about handling patches in sub freezing weather that have been lubed with an oil or grease, is that they don't chill the fingers as badly as an alcohol based lube.
As always, when changing lubes, check accuracy and point of impact. It changes with a lube. Many slipperier lubes require more powder be used to make them shoot the same as a water based lube.

Offline FALout

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Re: A convert to Hoppes
« Reply #19 on: January 16, 2012, 09:36:45 PM »
I used sperm oil many years ago, it worked well, but just couldn't get past the smell.
Bob

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Re: A convert to Hoppes
« Reply #20 on: January 17, 2012, 02:10:12 PM »
I love Hoppes PLUS for the range but I never use it for hunting...Natural Lube only for about 20 years.

And the experience above is just one more unexpected example of why I refuse to leave my guns loaded, regardless of the type lube, the conditions, the amount of time, etc...doesn't matter to me.

It's just too simple, easy, quick, and cheap to pull the load after every hunt and go out fresh the next trip.
Others mileage may vary...

I never leave my loaded over night, i ether shoot it then clean it or pull it and start fresh in the AM. Been doing this since the 80's.