Question on Neatsfoot Oil

[bgf]

I picked up some Fiebings 100% Pure Neatsfoot Oil last week thinking it would make a good patch lube or component.  Unfortunately, whether pure or mixed with alcohol and on a variety of patching material, it fouled very badly in just a few shots -- the hardest fouling I have ever seen.  All of the patches and mixes worked fine with soybean oil, so I'm thinking there must be some petroleum product or other impurity hiding in this 100% pure neatsfoot oil, though I cannot find anything on the label.  Anyway, has anyone tried this stuff and what brand is recommended otherwise?

[DEADDAWG]

I use Fiebings 100% pure in my .45 GM barrel without any problems. I shoot Goex 3Fg with a .440 ball and .018/.020 pillow ticking. Tight, but I don't need a hammer. I've shot 40+ shots without having to swab with no loss of accuracy. If I let my gun set a couple hours without swabbing after shooting, it'll be a little difficult to clean, but nothing a little boiling water won't take care of.

Rick

[Daryl]

I've used Neetsfoot oil for a trail walk - maybe 80 shots, not fouling problems in my .45 at all and no wiping, none of us do.  I use a .445" ball and 10 ounce denim patch at .0225"(my measure hard compressed). Taylor used neetsfoot oil one entire winter's shooting, every Sunday with his .40 Kuntz and was using 65gr. 3F. He had no fouling problems, for up to 80 shots, the last seemingly loading just as easily as the first. The last targets are the lonest shots on average and he rarely missed.

Another good one, is Track's mink oil.  It was especially nice in my .32 squirrel rifle - again, up to 80 shots, last loaded as easily as the first. With narrow grooves and wide lands, I use a .311" ball and same 10ounce .0225" denim patch - don't even need a starter, but I use one just because I've been using a starter since 1973. It's second nature. With .008" rifling, that combo is .010" larger than the groove to groove measurement in that barrel, yet it's not difficult to load without a starter. Small balls are easily moved/drawn/compressed with a smooth crown. I also use the thicker mattress ticking when I run out of precuts with the 10ounce.  8 ounce denim, at an even .020" also shoots well with only .0085" compression in the bottom of the grooves.

[zimmerstutzen]

neatsfoot oil is derived by boiling the shins of young calves and refining the oil that floats to the top. 

Many shooters I know would not use an animal oil or grease as a patch lube. I know others that do.   I use Fiebings for all kinds of things, but never even thought of using it as patch lube.

[bgf]

Dead Dawg,
That is useful to know.  I really wasn't expecting any problem with it, but the fouling was incredibly hard.  I'll probably give it another chance just to eliminate the weather (which was damper and cooler than normal, but not that odd) as a variable.  It does act like it is petroleum oil rather than what it is supposed to be, though.  Maybe they put some of the "NO Compound" (which I was careful to avoid) into the wrong bottle!

Daryl,
It was a .50 cal. GM, .495 ball and ~0.022 cotton duck (I also tried some .490's, some 0.015 ticking, etc., after having problems).  65-70 gr. 3F Graf's.  Each and every one of those combinations had been used with soybean oil and/or several other lubes for many 100's of rounds with no issues anywhere remotely close to what I was having.  I was pleased with myself for only changing one variable (type of oil), but it didn't go as planned .  I'll try to remember some of the Mink Oil next time I order from Track. 

ZS,
I had seen many favorable references to it here and decided to try it when I saw this stuff at Tractor Supply.  Maybe I should have just left well enough alone, but I can't seem to resist experimenting .

[Daryl]

bgf - as to weather when I used it, it was freezing with normal dry conditions, they worse for causing fouling buildup.  I see you're using a good ball and patch combination. I'm thinking you got some synthetic Neesfoot Oil by mistake. What you describe is indeed, what happens with a petrolium or non animal oil.

[catman]

This stuff will not freeze, and is a very good patch lube, worth looking in to, it works for me. Something different that works. I keep it in the freezer.

http://www.whitesboots.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=29835

[Daryl]

Interesting, a beeswax/propolis mixture.  I'm surprised it doesn't freeze hard, as both the beeswax and propolis are quite hard at  under 50F. Propolis is softer and sticky at 60F while beeswax is still quite hard at 80F. I wonder if the additives for antibacterial aspects softens it.

[catman]

Interesting, a beeswax/propolis mixture.  I'm surprised it doesn't freeze hard, as both the beeswax and propolis are quite hard at  under 50F. Propolis is softer and sticky at 60F while beeswax is still quite hard at 80F. I wonder if the additives for antibacterial aspects softens it.

You got me, maybe so..

[Kevin Houlihan]

A little off topic but still on the oil/patch lube subject...has anyone tried Ballistol as a patch lube, either straight or mixed with water?  I've used it for years in my Cartridge rifle for wiping between shots and it works great.  I just never tried it as a patch lube.
Kevin

[Robby]

Snap, I have tried Ballistol three different ways. Straight out of the can it is a nasty, stinky, gooey, mess that gets worse with every shot, but accuracy was good and consistent. I also tried it as a 'dry patch' by mixing it with water, I don't remember the ratio, soaking the patch material, and then letting the water dry away before use. For me, it required swabbing out the bore after every shot, and that is not for me. I know some people use this method with great success, but for me it gave inconsistent accuracy. My third Ballistol configuration is that mixture called "Moose Milk", and has many different variations. I use it to clean up after shooting along with plain water. Anyway, Spit is my main lube, but one day at the range I had trouble acquiring the proper amount of said substance and pulled out my flask of moose milk and had at it. Viscosity is about the same as spit, and I noticed no difference in consistency and accuracy. I always have to re-hydrate myself after a good range session, even if I use the moose milk.
Robby

[Canute Rex]

I use Feibings neatsfoot oil mixed with rubbing alcohol (1:3) and a little extra water. I can shoot at least 20 shots with no swabbing. I've never seen hard fouling with it in any weather. Hmmmm...

[Mike R]

neatsfoot oil is derived by boiling the shins of young calves and refining the oil that floats to the top. 

Many shooters I know would not use an animal oil or grease as a patch lube. I know others that do.   I use Fiebings for all kinds of things, but never even thought of using it as patch lube.

Interesting, as almost ALL the old timers used tallow/grease/oil from animals for patch lube--bear oil was preferred.  There are references to 'sweet oil' [probavly olive oil] use.  As for neatsfoot and mink oils--be careful, I have seen some products so labeled that really are petroleum products.  I too use Track's Mink Oil [really tallow] with no problems.  But once I bought some "mink oil" to condition some leather and found it to be a petroleum product.