small siler tune up

[huckfinn]

Has anyone used the forged springs from Track of the wolf on the small siler lock?  Are they worth the $$?  I am fixing up an old small siler lock and the main spring seems a little tired.  The frizzen spring also seems tired.  Just wondering.  Thanks!

[B.Habermehl]

I have not used the forged springs. They may be worth a try. Just remember do not enlarge the holes in the lock plate. That way you can refit a set of new Chambers-Siler springs if you are not satisfied with the preformance of Track's forged springs.
  P.S. I never had a problem with the Chambers-Siler lock springs. Were yours modified?

[smallpatch]

Finn,

I've used the springs.  They are fine, BUT you can just re shape and re harden/temper the springs you have.  All you need is a couple of hand tools and a propane torch.

[huckfinn]

Thanks for the feedback.  I have never attempted any spring work and am not sure how to do it.  I will search the archives for some information on how to do that.  I did try to harden a frizzen one time and ended up with one that worked real good at just getting a big gouge in it with no sparks  

[LH]

I bought two of those springs last summer.  One for a large and one small locks.  The only difference I can see is that they're quite a bit stronger. I have gotten a couple of siler springs over the years that were so weak they made the lock slow as Christmas.  Dont know if all the forged springs are strong like these or not though. 

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

That being the case I would just buy new springs( spelling corrected - see below) from Chambers.... or send him the lock and have him do whatever he thinks is best. That will maintain the warranty too.

[b bogart]

Dr Tim that's why he wants new springs, they are already SPRONG Sorry couldn't resist

[huckfinn]

OK, lots of information on bending, tempering, and hardening main springs.  I don't want to experiment so I will probably just go ahead and order the forged ones from Trak of the Wolf.  Sounds like they are an improvement. 
     My grandfather worked as a dresser in the oil fields and from what I am told he knew how to temper the drilling bits just by the color.  I was surprised to learn that the first oil wells were "drilled" by dropping a 1 ton metal rod into the earth repeatedly.  When the "bit" mushroomed it had to reshaped using a forge and sledge hammer. Then rehardened.

[Long Ears]

Finndog, really, you don't remember pre-rotary drilling rigs? I am getting old!!! Bob

[huckfinn]

Longears, I just assumed drilling meant with a drill bit...not a rope!   I never knew what all the old timers were talking about until I went to the oil museum in Bradford, PA.  they have an old rig set up to see how it worked.  Amazing!

[Mtn Meek]

Finndog, "drilling rig" is a relatively modern term in the oil and gas industry that came in use with the rotary table and drill pipe.  The rig your grandfather worked on was called a "cable tool" rig.  The cable tool bit was more like a chisel that was repeatedly raised and dropped on the rock face at the bottom of the hole and chipped the rock away.  The cuttings were removed with a bailer.  All of these "tools" were operated by a cable running to the surface, hence the name cable tool.  The cable tool technology predates the oil and gas industry by hundreds, if not thousands, of years as they were used to dig water wells.  I've seen water wells dug with a cable tool rig as recent as the 1970's.  There may still be some operating.

Ain't it fun how these threads get off topic?

[Mike New]

Cable tools are still being used in Western Kentucky. Another advantage is that they "drill" straight holes. Rotary rigs used to check the straightness with a gadget called a "sureshot" One degree off was a whole lot when the hole was several thousand feet deep. Sorry to get off subject but this brought back a lot of memories. Mike.