Frizzen and cock c/l?

[JB2]

How far off would be acceptable?  About 1/5 of the width of the cock jaws (at least 1/8")  is to the outside of the frizzen.  Also, the inside edge of the frizzen is about 1/8" away from the barrel.  I know I can take a little off the inside of the lock bolster to move the whole lock, but that'll still leave the cock outside the frizzen.  I'm assumiong bending the cock over is my best option?   I'm looking at top views of different locks now to get an idea of how much to bend it.  At least I'll have a view in my minds eye when I take torch to metal.

Thanks guys.

Jimb

[rich pierce]

Sometimes as my Dad would say, "It needs a new one".  If the lock is replaceable, think bout getting another one.  I'd like to see and handle it before deciding what may be wrong.  The two different issues could be completely separate (cock and frizzen) but if it has that much wrong with it, who knows what else may be wrong.

To fix the cock, before anything else, see it's seated on the tumbler all the way.  If not or not pressed on straight, it can be moved inward as long as you leave some clearance from the lockplate.  It's not simple to bend the cock inward and keep it upright (not leaning  at the neck).  The frizzen is a dealbreaker.  It will leave exposed powder- unsafe and will lead to misfires.

[Jim Kibler]

It sounds like something is seriously wrong if the frizzen is 1/8" from the barrel.  As far as helping alignment between the cock and frizzen in general, bending can help.  The cock can be twisted as well as be bent over a touch to help with things lining up.  I've seen this on a number of very high quality original locks.  I've done the same thing on some commercial locks.  Not something that is noticed without looking for it.

Jim

[JB2]

thanks for the quick replies guys.  Sorry I wasn't too clear on a couple of things, but the pan and frizzen do mate up fine, and there is no gap between frizzen (pan cover?) and barrel.  It's just the face of the frizzen is about 1/8" from the inside of the pan cover(?), and the cock jaws are about 1/8" to the outside of the frizzen face.  I did get another cock that was better than the one that came with this lock, but still about 1/8" outside of the face of the frizzen (I think I got all the right words in the right place.)

I did get the cock seated deeper on the tumbler and can still go a little deeper.  That helped, but c/l's are still out.  Yes, I am worried about getting that much of a 'kink' in the top 1/3 of the cock without affecting some other portion of the cock alignment.

And yes, this lock has other problems.  Lots of 'em.  What's the saying, experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted?  The only 'experience' I should have got with this lock is a trip to the UPS office.  No, it's NOT a Chambers.  I really should build ML's that use Chambers' locks!

I did a dumb thing thinking I could fix this lock!!  I can, just guess I will get more practice with my little MIG, and see if my drill press is more 'square' than the one used to build this lock.  Also, anybody have a good source for precision reaming tools?