Author Topic: Lock finish  (Read 5139 times)

DB

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Lock finish
« on: March 19, 2012, 09:11:34 AM »
I have read a lot in the archives about lock polishing and case hardening
What I want to know is what is period correct for a lock used in the 18 century? To what degree would a lock be polished,  or not.
« Last Edit: March 19, 2012, 09:29:45 AM by DB »

Offline rich pierce

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Re: Lock finish
« Reply #1 on: March 19, 2012, 03:21:01 PM »
Original locks were made by forging the parts then filing and polishing before case-hardening then often polishing once again to a bright appearance.  Today's "as cast" assembled locks of today with a dull, grainy, somewhat pock-marked appearance need to be filed and polished to resemble what original locks looked like when new.
Andover, Vermont

Offline Acer Saccharum

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Re: Lock finish
« Reply #2 on: March 19, 2012, 03:29:00 PM »
Tom Curran's web site : http://monstermachineshop.net
Ramrod scrapers are all sold out.

Andy S

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Re: Lock finish
« Reply #3 on: March 20, 2012, 07:27:52 PM »
I am starting the lock polishing job on my next project, a jaeger rifle. Using files, stones and paper on a steel backer. So far I have done the lock plate through 600 grit. Advice for the thread that Acer referred to works great, just takes some time. I will say, however, that polishing a flat faced lock with a removable pan is way easier than, for instance, Chambers round faced English!

I am not set up at this point for case hardening at home. Once the polishing and engraving is done, has anyone had good results sending a lock out for commercial case hardening? Any warpage / damage issues? Does anyone on the board case harden locks?

Offline Dphariss

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Re: Lock finish
« Reply #4 on: March 20, 2012, 09:12:07 PM »
I am starting the lock polishing job on my next project, a jaeger rifle. Using files, stones and paper on a steel backer. So far I have done the lock plate through 600 grit. Advice for the thread that Acer referred to works great, just takes some time. I will say, however, that polishing a flat faced lock with a removable pan is way easier than, for instance, Chambers round faced English!

I am not set up at this point for case hardening at home. Once the polishing and engraving is done, has anyone had good results sending a lock out for commercial case hardening? Any warpage / damage issues? Does anyone on the board case harden locks?

Call
Wyoming Armory.
Cody, WY
307-527-4570

If Keith does not answer ask for him. Might have to call more than once if they are busy. Very professional, Keith does 3-4 runs a week so he is in practice.
Used to do all the casehardening for Ballard Rifle.
Here are four he has done for me. I think he has done 10 ? total for me over the last 15 years or so.



This lock actually looks better than the photos show.







The parts will also have a good case depth, its functional in other words.

They can also remove or mute the color if you desire.

Never had an issue with warping and certainly no damage. I trust Keith with no reservations at all he really is a pro at this.

If I had a worry I would not send him things this big and expensive


I have a Chambers "Dale Johnson" ready for color now. Probably do it early April.
Dan
He who dares not offend cannot be honest. Thomas Paine

Andy S

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Re: Lock finish
« Reply #5 on: March 20, 2012, 11:45:48 PM »
Thanks Dan, I will give him a call when it is time. Lots of work to do first.

Another thought... The lock is a Davis French fusil lock, already undergoing modifications. When I first acquired it, it sparked, but not real vigorously. I thought the frizzen was too hard, so I baked it in the oven at 360 for an hour to draw it down. That did help noticeably.

How do frizzens come back after case hardening? Better or maybe need some work?

Offline Dphariss

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Re: Lock finish
« Reply #6 on: March 21, 2012, 12:55:28 AM »
I don't case the frizzens.
I simply harden and temper frizzens or high carbon parts.

Dan
He who dares not offend cannot be honest. Thomas Paine

eddillon

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Re: Lock finish
« Reply #7 on: March 21, 2012, 01:07:15 AM »
Inn addition to the files and rifflers mentioned in the archives, I made a burnishing file.  Took off all evidence of teeth and groves from a flat 1" x 8" file using a belt sander. finished it to about a 600# finish.  Use it on lockplates in the same manner as a file.  After that I put a healthy blob of a paste made with mineral oil and rotten stone on 0000 steel wool. I then polish with the treated steel wool.  Very pleasing finish(IMHO). :)


Dew

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Re: Lock finish
« Reply #8 on: March 21, 2012, 06:49:33 AM »
Dan, those are some good looking locks. I was curious if it is very expensive to send them off to get done. I am thinking about building a Hawken in the future. Thanks,Dew

Offline Dphariss

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Re: Lock finish
« Reply #9 on: March 21, 2012, 05:07:40 PM »
Dan, those are some good looking locks. I was curious if it is very expensive to send them off to get done. I am thinking about building a Hawken in the future. Thanks,Dew

I don't use anyone else so I don't know what others charge but they have to be ball park. Potential customers have to be aware that its possible to get color with no real hardening of the surface, this was the hallmark of Italian reproduction "colors" back years ago and might be in some cases yet. Keith does actual casehardening in colors and his case depth was found satisfactory by a MAJOR American Arms maker in lab tests.   
Having recommended firms/gunsmiths in the past and having the person who had the work done then disappointed that I am VERY careful in making recommendations. If I did not have complete confidence in Wyoming Armory you would not see their name in my postings.
Period.   
Dan
He who dares not offend cannot be honest. Thomas Paine