Annealing wax cast Iron mounts and opinions on a lock

[Don Tripp]

I've never tried to anneal wax cast iron mounts (maybe once on a Bean but I can't remember). Does anybody have any experience with this and is it possible? This will be my first rifle build after 8 years and I'm building an iron mounted early Virginia (probably more Woodbury) rifle, walnut stocked with .50 cal 38" C Weight Colerain barrel. I'm using the profile of RCA #83 as a general outline. I'm not set up to do any kind of forge work anymore so I'm planning on buying the Iron mounts from MBS. I know these mounts are hard and break easy if you try to bend them, or at least the wax cast bronze mounts will break easy (I always hated filing that bronze). I thought about firing up the Weber with a full load of hardwood charcoal, putting the mounts in there and closing it up and letting it burn down to ashes overnight. Has anybody here tried anything like that?

Also, other than the mounts that I'll purchase, I'm doing this build using parts that I have on hand and since it's for me it'll be left handed. I've got two LH flintlocks on hand that are the right size but of a different style than RCA #83 has (although the one pictured is a replacement). The first is a salvaged once used Large Siler (not assembled by Chambers) that needs a new Frizzen and tumbler. The 2nd lock is a brand new 15 year old L&R Durs Egg which is maybe a little too late period but then again, I don't intend to document #83, it's more of a general idea for the silhouette.  

I personally have had good experiences with L&R's Egg and Manton locks but that was in a different century. Like I said, this is my first build in 8 years so If I don't become more prolific it might be one of my last. I hope its not my last, I've got enough parts on hand to build 5 rifles including this one.

[Dphariss]

Call MBS and ask.
Its extremely unlikey they are cast iron.
Steel will anneal OK if heated to cherry and then insulated in dry, loose wood ashes to slow cool.

Dan

[lafreniere]

Annealing non ferrous metals, brass etc makes them more malleable
in the cold state, not true for steel. I would only attempt to bend cast
steel while red hot, and probably only as a last resort. Your webber
kettle scenario might just end up hardening them.

[LRB]

  Annealing steel does not make it more malleable??? Please clarify. I agree that cast steel should be bent hot, and would add that I doubt annealing would make any noticable difference in any common steel with a carbon content much under .30.

[Hungry Horse]

i agree with Dphariss, heat them red hot, and insulate for at least an hour in wood ashes, or warm sand. These parts are not iron. They are mild steel, that has been investment cast. The problem is not the mild steel, its the casting process that can cause you fits. If you anneal the parts, they will not behave like annealed brass, but will be stress relieved, and less likely to break if they are annealed before  bending or shaping.
 Either lock will need cosmetic work to be believable on the rifle you propose. The Siler is a Germanic design, that is less believable on a southern rifle than an English style. The L&R is an English design but would require backdating to be believable. Both are fine locks, it pretty much comes down to which one you are more comfortable grinding on.

                             Hungry Horse

[Jim Kibler]

On small or very thin parts, the cooling rate in ashes etc. is still sufficiently fast that a good anneal is not obtained.  When this is the case, heating them and allowing them to cool in charcoal is a good method.