Architecture Check on Aisle 4

[KLMoors]

I've been working on this, my first, step wrist gun and I want to check with those more knowledgeable about my butt architecture. If you recall, I had this funky butt plate and I think it looks fine now that it is installed. I do think I will follow Ed's suggestion of adding some carving or wire inlay in front of it along the comb to stretch it out a little.

First off, at the risk of waking up strangled with Stophel's lederhosen suspenders, I don't want it to look TOO German.     I've gone back to my Jaeger book, and the chapter in RCA on German pieces to look for ideas on how to "German it up", and those Germans might design nice stuff, but some of their gun architecture is butt ugly to my eye! Maybe it is an acquired taste that I haven't acquired yet.

So, my goal here is to make this look like a generic, German influenced, American built, step wrist critter.

Here is my progress so far. As it currently stands, everything works out pretty good- the trigger guard lays out nicely, cheek piece feels good, and I shortened up the LOP a little to make up for the thick wrist. I haven't installed the trigger yet, so I probably have 1/4 inch or so to play with if needed to move things (like the trigger guard) around. Obviously there is still a lot of extra wood around the lock panels. My panels are drawn oversized and I will thin them up with my final shaping.






I am not real thrilled with look of the side plate (it is not inlet yet), I can drop the comb line a little if you think I need to, and I can move the step back a bit if needed. The wrist currently measures 1 5/8" tall.

Any opinions and suggestions welcomed!

Oh, one final thing- I am going fishing tomorrow so I may not reply till Saturday. I'm not ignoring your help, I am hopefully busy reeling in fish!

[rich pierce]

Looking good to me so far!  I'd be happy with the buttplate as it is, but just my preference.  I like that you've left enough room behind the cheekpiece.

I generally let the guard influence where I locate the break of the step on a step-wristed gun.

[bgf]

The step in the wrist (and the rear return/post on the triggerguard) is usually (?) roughly coincident with the step in the comb, sometimes a little forward, but also often a little behind (toward buttplate).  Comb length is also a factor, with some having longer combs than others.  Yours looks good and "early" .

The triggerguard and its placement dictate the step pretty much, but you should also keep that in mind when selecting or better making a triggerguard.  I think you have the wrist step just a little too far forward currently, but that is just my reaction -- how does it look with the triggerguard?  The step-wrist rifles I think look best have the rear post of the TG coming out at the step, perhaps curving forward just a bit, not forward of the step as on RCA #18 (replacement TG) or buried in it (I don't have a reference for that offhand, but I'm sure I've seen it).

[Acer Saccharum]

As Rich suggests, you need the guard to dedicate the wrist. Don't cut any wood off that yet.

I also think you need to figure out your trigger and its placement. Then you will know how deep the wood under the look will be, and the profile of the stock. Get that trigger floor plate placed and functioning before going much farther.

If using a double set, you may be able to bend the plate at the tails, maybe not. If using a single trigger, with iron floor plate, you have all the freedom in the world for curvature and depth of wood.

You will need to conceptualize the guard trigger placement at the same time, but get your trig in first. This is a case where you will be happy if you left your step a bit too long, and all you have to do is cut it back.

[KLMoors]

I should have made that clear. The trigger plate is in. It is inlet about 1/16 deeper than the underside of the stock right now so I will be taking a little  more off the underside. I could inlet it more and take even more off, but I am affraid of the effect this might have on where my wrist starts to break down. I've going to end up with about 1/8 inch of wood beneath the ram rod hole in the forend, so I don't want to go much lower. Right now the wrist starts down just below the breech. From looking at pictures, that seems about right.

Depending on how I fabricate my trigger, I can adjust its exact position within about 1/4 inch or so. I think that the shape of the wrist looks pretty good to my eye at this point ( do you all agree?) , and the 1 5/8 inch dimension for the height of the wrist seems about right from what I can find. So, what all this means is that I can move the trigger and trigger guard back a little bit if need be to correct any architecture issues. If you think I am real close, then I will just let my comfort be the guide at this point.

Right now as it stands, the trigger guard goes right where it should be regarding the step, with the curve that comes up to the rail occuring right at the step.

Big thanks!

[bgf]

I think the pictures are hard to read -- the more I look at it, the more the step in wrist location looks OK, esp. if the TG sync's up with it.  Definitely position TG  inlet and decide only after TG is in place if step needs cut back a little.

I really like the strong wrist; it works well to keep the step from becoming "the" architectural feature rather than a pleasing part of the architecture.  Also, when you carve the beavertail and trim the panels, I think that will lengthen and slenderize the wrist a bit visually, so be careful going too thin any sooner.  I also like the comb line as you have it, but you could easily go lower and/or more rounded or soften the nose a bit and still look good -- just depends on what you are emulating.

Take my comments with a grain of salt, and listen to the more experienced ones.  That said, step wrists are my favorites and yours doesn't look "off" the way they sometimes can when (over)done badly. 

[Tom Currie]

KL, You mentioned your side plate, it sort of flares at the rear to me , look at RCA volumes for examples of originals. I think you could refine this.  I like your build.

[Ed Wenger]

Ken,

I think the architecture looks fine.  As just about everyone mentioned, the step will pretty much be dictated by the trigger guard placement.  I too, think the butt piece looks fine in regards to the tang, it's not too short.  In regards to the side plate, draw a line above the rear tang bolt head that conforms to the curve of the bolt head, and see how that looks.  It'll round that area a little more and might "blend" a little more with what the front of the plate looks like.  Great start and looking really good!


          Ed

[KLMoors]

Sounds good guys. I will carry on. Ed, thanks for the idea on the top of the side plate. I see what you are saying at that rear bolt.  Tom, I will fiddle with the tail on that side plate and see if I can get something that looks better.

Thanks all!

[Cory Joe Stewart]

I Love step wrist guns.  There I said it and I am not ashamed.

As was mentioned you may want to back the step up to match the comb. 

But it looks great.

Coryjoe

[Acer Saccharum]

I like stepped wrists, too.

Here's one from an older project, which you can take or leave. Hey, I like that, or hey, I don't want to make mine like that. This might help you visualize.

Definitely get your guard inlet before you cut your step back.

[KLMoors]

Oooooh! That is very pretty carving.

Thanks for the close up of that area too. I notice on some of the German stuff, the upper area of the comb is quite pregnant (to my eye) as it moves forward. I can see you thinned yours down to a more graceful termination.

[Tom Currie]

Tom, Thats pretty. Can't imagine anyone not wanting their carving to look like that.

[Jim Kibler]

I think this but stock shaping is looking pretty good.  One sometimes difficult, but important aspect is how the lock and sideplate panels are shaped.  Particularly at the rear and how they transition into the beaver tail carving details.  Might be good to study some jaeger rifles or perhaps some longrifles such as RCA #42.