Clamping a Ramrod Drill!

[Eric Smith]

I see in my reference books that some recommend clamping only at the hole, some in the middle, some at the muzzle also. What works for you guys that drill your own? Also any other tips or "Watch out for that!"

[smylee grouch]

Clear your chips often and lub the bit with bees wax or some other such stuff.

[Acer Saccharum]

Watch the chip buildup. Too much chip in the flutes causes heat, and will cause the drill to run off.

You can drill explorer holes from the bottom of the barrel inlet into the rr hole. then use a wire or depth gage so yo can see that the hole is progressing, up, down or sideways

[Chris Treichel]

I drilled a hole through a 1x2 inch piece of maple. Cut it in half through the drilled hole and lube it with soap.  Allowes me to clamp without having the clamps move while drilling.  Used an old brace with 3-5 turns before pulling it out and using a small nozzle on my vaccum cleaner to keep the bits off the living room carpet.

Other neat item was that when I ordered the bit from Muzzleloading Builders Supply it arrived in a 1x2 piece of lumber cut lengthwise and had two channels cut down the inside.  When I got that package (looked like a 1x2 with a mailing label) I was scratching my head for a few seconds before I had realized what they had done.  I still keep the drill bit in it.

[rich pierce]

I use 2 clamps, one at the entry thimble area and another halfway up the stock.  Like above, soap is a good lube that cleans up.  Wax would cause problems later with staining.  Just stay loose, don't use too much pressure, make sure you are not pressing down on the stock.  Never use a power drill here.

[Jim Kibler]

Guess everybody has their methods...  Lately I haven't been clamping the drill at all, just lightly holding it in place with a gloved hand.  I lubricate with hardware store beeswax.  Never had staining problems.  I've always used a power drill for this operation.

[Acer Saccharum]

Watch that glove! make sure it's thick enuff not to wind up on the shaft!

Like the longhair using the lathe, you won't be a happy camper if things start wrapping around the spindle.

[Long John]

When clamping a drill bit - be careful!

The issue is not how many clamps, if any, you use.  The issue is whether or not the drill is straight!  You have to start with a straight, properly aimed ramrod groove.  If the groove is straight,  the drill is clamped with even pressure in that groove and the chips are cleared frequently so that there is no build-up of chips on one side of the bit, then the hole will be straight.  But clamping the drill into a ramrod groove that is curved will cause the drill to continue the curve!  How do I know, you ask.  Because I had a ramrod hole exit the bottom of the stock about 1 inch forward of the trigger guard extension!  I was NOT a happy camper that night!

I am NOT the professional class gun maker that Jim or Acer are.  And all I have is hand tools.  I do this for fun.  I let in my ramrod drill with the same care I use for the barrel.  I make sure that I have even transfer color the entire length of the groove.  That assures me that I have good, uniform contact between drill and ramrod channel.  Then I use 2 clamp blocks and a hand brace.  I clear out chips every 1/2 inch.  Listen to your drill - it is talking to you.  If it gets hard to turn or begins to scream then something is going wrong - STOP and figure out what it is.  Sometimes the curl in the wood makes a drill wander but most of the time if you go slow it ends up where you want it if the groove is carefully prepared.

Best Regards,

John Cholin

[Keb]

Be sure your drill is sharpened properly. If it's not the drill can wander no matter how many clamps you are using.
Oh, I use my hand for a clamp on the drill rod I'm twisting. I use a power drill also and clear out the chips about every 1/4 to 1/2 inch of drill depth.

[Lucky R A]

    No one mentioned this, but make sure your drill bit starts exactly on level with the bottom of your ram rod channel.  The most common mistake is letting the bit hop up a wee bit when it starts the hole.  This often goes unnoticed and starts your bit heading for the bottom of the stock.   Drill in about 1/2 inch withdraw the bit and check to see that there is no little step where the bit moved from the ram rod channel to the hole.  If there is a problem you can easily correct it with a gouge at this point.   Lucky

[TMerkley]

I made my ramrod drill bit from a 5/16" drill bit and 5/16" steel rod.  aligned in a vice and welded together tacking first and straigtening.  I still get a little wobble with using it.  But, I recently used a block over the top of the bit.  I drilled the block first and then split that in half. then clamping it over the top of the bit with two C-clamps about 1" from the start of the ramrod hole.  One on each side of the stock.  I use a variable speed drill and start slow to work in then speed up a bit.  Go about a 1/2 in like the other guys also suggest.  Let the flutes clean them selves as you pull out and gradually work back in.  Once you get into a system, it won't take you long.  As they say in the military, "Slow is smooth, Smooth is fast!"  Keep that in mind.  Takes about five minutes or so. 
Good luck!

[Eric Smith]

I am happy to announce that the ramrod hole has been bored. Test holes bored in the barrel channel seem to indicate it is in properly.
   I started off with a clamp about 2" from the entry and one in the middle and used a gloved hand a few inches from the muzzle. Used beeswax for lube. About 4" in, I realized I had it clamped too tightly. I removed the middle clamp and loosened the forward clamp some ( had two thin pieces of leather for a shim). Then I had to go to work.
  When I got home, all the above posts had been made. Taking them all into account, I began again. Ron, your post was right on. I actually realized what you meant about the bit rising a bit at the entry point about 2 seconds into the procedure. I whipped out a gouge and made sure to take off a little extra in front of the entry hole so the bit could follow the ramrod channel. I used Tom Snyder's plane to work out the ramrod channel, but it won't cut right up to the entry hole. Your karma must have been tapping me on the shoulder!
  About half way, I switched from beeswax to a bar of Ivory Snow soap, (stole it from my grandsons supply). I noticed a remarkable inprovement in the way the bit cut.  Having read Jim Kibler's post, I could not resist. I removed the clamp at the entry hole and used only a gloved hand  at the muzzle to finish. Once the hole is well established, I think it is the way to go. Or at least, it seemed to work for me. Thanks Jim.
  I have read here on this website and elsewhere, that bedding the barrel and drilling the ramrod hole are the worst part of it, and that after that you can have fun with being creative. If that is true, why am I not relieved instead of terrified of the other 998 ways to screw up a build.
  Many thanks to all who responded to this post. Although we have never shaken hands, I consider you my friends. Maybe someday!
                           Eric Smith

[gunsports]

Perhaps a little off topic, but I've had nightmares trying to bore ramrod holes with twist drills. I had one break off the rod in the channel, another veered off to one side; so much, that I had to 'excavate' the barrel channel some and then use chisels to correct the drift. I ended up making my own dril bit and my problems stopped forthwith. Here's a pic ...



This one is in 10mm, and it is TIG welded to a length of straight stainless steel rod. To get an accurate weld, clamp both the bit and the rod in a length of angle iron and, after grinding the mating surfaces to a point, weld and fill; turning the bit and rod frequently. This gives a very straight join.

I use two wood clamps with grooves to keep the drill in the ramrod channel and lubricate with bees wax. I use an electric drill to drill; but at low speed and only 6mm (1/4") at a time before I back out and clean the chips.

Never had a problem again.

[Dennis Glazener]

I can not tell from the one photo, does the drill bit tip have any clearance ground in or is in untouched on the reverse side? What are the angles used?
Dennis

[gunsports]

Dennis, I start with a D-bit shape. Then I find the center - it has to be exact otherwise the bit wanders. Then I shape the front edges as shown. Lastly, I hone two facets on the front edges; harden and clean up again. For this bit, I used the back end of a drill bit that had broken off.

The small D-bit relief ground on the top could be bigger; but this forces me to bore a little at a time; about 1/4 inch or so, and clear the chips often.

I have found this shape to bore  extremely accurate holes, no matter the grain structure you bore into.

Hope this helps.

[Dennis Glazener]

I think I have it.
Thanks
Dennis