Vent Liner removal

[SCLoyalist]

I recently acquired a flinter with a Douglas barrel which has a stainless vent liner which needs to be replaced.   The liner is one of those slotted types for easy removal with a screwdriver, but it doesn't want to be removed.    I don't have any idea how long that liner has been installed, or if anti-seize grease was applied to the threads.   The vent liner screwdriver slot isn't in the greatest shape.

I have barrel out of the stock and  soaking in penetrating oil (ATF/acetone 50/50) and  I figure I can apply heat before I try to unscrew it again with a screwdriver.   If that doesn't work, I can try an EZ out.

Anybody got any suggestions for other things to try, or warnings with respect to pitfalls for the unwary to avoid?

And, once I get the thing out, I expect to find that its threads were 3/8X24tpi.   I'd like to put a Chambers white lightning liner in it, but those are threaded 32 tpi as I recall.   Is there anyway to safely transition to a Chambers WL liner, or am I constrained to put a new 24 thread liner back in?
Thanks, SCL

[dannybb55]

Make a new one out of hardened tool steel , install it, stone it flush and match the colour. The stainless looks futuristic in a flintlock.
                                            Danny

[Hungry Horse]

 The easy out works fine, as long as Loc-tite wash't used. I use the stainless vent liners from Jim Chambers. I've found none that provide faster ignition.

                       Hungry Horse

[Acer Saccharum]

You'll have to find out what the threads are, and what condition they are in, before proceeding.

[T*O*F]

Put the proper size screwdriver bit into your drill press.  Lower the chuck tight into the slot and lock it down.  Wiggle the chuck back and forth until the liner breaks free and then back it out applying penetrating oil as you remove it.

Don't use an easy out.  95 percent of the time they break off because they actually expand in the hole and get tighter.  If you don't have the above drill press, use the proper sized Torks bit.  Drive it into your hole, put a box wrench over it and wiggle back and forth as above.  Since it's straight sided, if it breaks you can just drive it thru into the barrel and let it drop out the front.

As a 40+ year owner of an auto shop, I've removed more broken bolts and studs than most.  The threads of your liner are not holding it in, rather the friction fit between the barrel and the bevel of the liner is.  In this respect, it is similar to the shoulders of a breechplug against the barrel.

[SCLoyalist]

Sounds like a plan.    Thanks all.

[oldiemkr]

Tried any Kroil??

If its got locktite you could WARM it up. That does not mean use an acetylene torch and get it real hot or glowing. Locktite will release.

Got any left handed twist drills ? Or I usually just use several sizes to drill close up to the tap drill size and then the insert is weak enough to get out. I usually stay oh maybe 1/16" less than the tap drill size. That gives you a wall of about 1/32" . If it doesn't twist out you can use a punch to break it on one side and get it out.
If your careful you may have good threads left if they haven't burned up w/gases.

[Acer Saccharum]

TOF, I'll put those hints into my mental 'toolbox'. Thanks!

[Artificer]

I agree an Easy Out can be more problematic than it helps quite often. 

Another thing to try is a tiny Dental Carbide burr in a Handy Grinder or Dremel Tool to make a new screw slot.  The vibration seems to loosen stuck/rusted screws broken off in locks as well.  Though with a Touch Hole Liner, I’m SURE you would not want to cut a new screw driver slot across the whole width of the diameter so you don’t cut into the threads or barrel.  The new slot could be ½ or maybe ¾ the width of the old slot. 

Another thing the Dental burr is good for is for pins you have to remove that are very curved on the outside and it is really difficult to center a small starter punch.  If you cut a sort of round divot in the center of the pin, you can use a tiny starter punch to get it moving.  I’ve even cut the ends of some pins hollowed out for the same reason.  That way, you don’t have to worry about the end of the pin flaring as you drive it out.  Not sure if that makes sense, but it works.

Gus