Darkening around relief carving.

[LehighBrad]

I'm sure this topic was dicussed before but I haven't been able to find any reference to it doing a search in here.  How does one go about getting that darkish / blackish shading around the relief carved designs on the stock that makes the carving pop even more than normal??

[Ed Wenger]

Two methods that have worked well for me are using a black glaze wash, and also lamp black.  The black glaze I get through Woodcraft, thin it a little with water, then brush on the carving.  Before it dries, wipe off the excess with a rag.  It'll stay in the recessed areas, and be wiped off the high spots.

For the lamp black, I slightly dampen the area around the carving with what ever finish you're using (generally I use Permalyn), then use fingers to smear lamp black into the nooks and crannies.  Again, you can use a rag, or your fingers to feather out the edges, and get it off the high areas.


         Ed

[LehighBrad]

Thanks Ed! Is the black rubbed on the bare unfinished woods surface right off or do I rub on a coat or two of oil finish first and let that dry before rubbing on the black glaze??

[Ed Wenger]

The stock is stained, and I apply a sealer coat, then start the process described.  The sealer coat is typically the same as used to finish the stock.


           Ed

[David Rase]

I pretty much use the same techniques as Ed.  Lamp black dampened with stock sealer and rubbed in with my fingers and then the excess rubbed off with a cloth from the high spots.
David

[Jim Kibler]

Lamp black can work well, but can tend to be a little too harsh of a black sometimes in my view.  I've been using very fine bone black, sold under the name of "drop black" lately.  Tends to be a little more brown.  I also like to use a soft brush around an inch or so to work it into receses, spread it and feather it out etc.  You can remove from the high spots and surface when wet or wait for it to dry and work off  with abrasives.

[Meteorman]

i also don't prefer the absolute black.
it's probably overkill, but i mix up my own colored brew using pigments muddled into the sealer - in my current build i made some button lac as the sealer/medium.  allows one to tune it to that more brownish, dark umber shade.
/mike

[Gaeckle]

I have used Fiebings Dark Brown leather dye and black watercolor paint from a tube......makes a paste that can be brushed on with a small artist's brush.  The paste will set up and dry quickly and can then be burnished will steel wool to leave highlights.

The leather dye is warm in color (red's and orange) while the black is very cold (the one I used had a little blue in it) and these offset each other. Don't buy Windsor Newton, they are pricey and we're not painting fine art.....just go to any place like Hobby Lobby and pick up a tube of black or better yet a set of colors ina pre-packaged box (super cheap, about 15 bucks). Other colors like sepia or burnt umber could also be blended.

[LehighBrad]

Seems I remember some time ago an online tutorial by Mr. Mike Brooks, I think, that showed a stained and sealed stock that was sprayed with flat black spray paint from a rattle can. Then the spray paint was rubbed back off with a fine scotchbrite pad, if memory serves, leaving the black around the edges, nooks, and crannys of the relief carved designs. Then additional coats of finish was applied giving a nice deep warm glow to the wood. This sound familiar to anyone?? Perhaps even you Mike???

[Tom Currie]

Brad, I have been tinting finish oils to vary color tone in an attempt to simulate wear areas.  It think it adds interest to the finished product. It's not gunk in recessed areas though.

As Mr Invictus states: There is a big learning curve to creating a believable patina, mastered by only few IMHO. Certainly not including myself.

[LehighBrad]

Thanks guys....after applying my second coat of Chambers oil finish it looks like the borders and edges around my carvings "pops" out just fine. And I'm far too inexperienced to try, let alone worry about adding blackish shading around my carvings to add a fake "patina" to the stock. Just wondering how complicated it would be to do it. I'm planning on rubbing down my stock after this second coat drys with a fine gray scotchbrite pad before rubbing on any more consecutive coats of oil. Is it nessesary to do this after every coat Seems to me it's not. Maybe it's one of those personal preference things. ??

[Jim Kibler]

One important point in my view, is that there may be no intent to accurately duplicate original patina characteristics.  This driving force can be primarily aesthetic considerations.

[Acer Saccharum]

I have heard it said that it can take as long to develop a convincing finishing and wear patterns as it took to build the gun. But I don't know, because I'm not there yet.

That means it could take me two years or more AFTER I'm done building, just to get the durn thing looking right! 

[Pete G.]

You can't get much more authentic than linseed oil and soot. Wipe on a thin coat, then polish off all you can with a paper towel. The darker stuff will stay in the lower places and give the look.

[B Shipman]

One important point in my view, is that there may be no intent to accurately duplicate original patina characteristics.  This driving force can be primarily aesthetic considerations.

This nails it for me. Yes, it may duplicate some old gun somewhere, it may be believeable but that's not the point. It's to make the gun looks alive. Has anyone ever seen a rifle that looks like Judson Brennans; do his look like Jim's. I like to do this stuff because it adds visual interest. MIke Brooks does this to make them look like an old original would. The House's to get a good greasy take me to the woods look. This is all part of the art. You have hits and misses. Consistent hits get the attention.

[rick landes]

Thanks guys....after applying my second coat of Chambers oil finish it looks like the borders and edges around my carvings "pops" out just fine. And I'm far too inexperienced to try, let alone worry about adding blackish shading around my carvings to add a fake "patina" to the stock. Just wondering how complicated it would be to do it. I'm planning on rubbing down my stock after this second coat drys with a fine gray scotchbrite pad before rubbing on any more consecutive coats of oil. Is it nessesary to do this after every coat Seems to me it's not. Maybe it's one of those personal preference things. ??

I just put a layer of the oil finish on, leave for about 15 minutes and wipe the excess with a paper towel. Dry. Carefully rub in a small amount with finger tip over entire stock and dry again. That is about it. A light scuff can be done between the coat. It may help adhesion. I have not seen many coats as a great help. In fact I helped a man learn to do an oil finish and I think I spent more time bronze "wooling" off the excess finish he had applied.

It is like Brycream...a little dab'll do ya!"

[Hungry Horse]

A good substitute for years of accumulated dirt, and smoke, can be duplicated with concrete tinting powder, mixed with your sealer, or linseed oil, and left to dry. Then, rubbed back to leave it just on the recesses.
 Tempera powdered paint works well too. for simulating dirt.
 Lincoln's brown leather dye can be applied with a swab, and then immediately rubbed with a wet rag, to get that brown/orange tint found on so many old rifles.

                         Hungry Horse