Customizing production set triggers

[deano]

I was admiring Bill Shipman's work modifying a set of Davis triggers which he used on his great Early Virginia gun recently posted. When I first saw the pictures I was certain the triggers were actually a custom made job. A straight pin trigger shape like Bill used is not available in a Davis trigger and there is a really neat curve added to the rear set trigger pad, a great look. After viewing the Davis site I assume they started out life as a set of "Early Double Set, Double Knife" trigger?

If I want to make similar modifications to a set of Davis triggers are there any required precautions I should take before bending the trigger pads to prevent breakage and losing the hardening on the knives? I'd sure hate to ruin a set of triggers in an experiment.

Bill suggested a new topic to discuss the process, so thank you in advance for any hints and advice.

Ken

[J. Talbert]

There's is a fair amount of modification you can do just with a file, that will get rid of that "mass produced" look.

I have gone so far as to cut away the exposed part of the trigger and silver soldered a new external piece to the top section.  It's been a while, but I believe when I did that, I just dropped it in the quench when I was done soldering, (red hot for hard silver solder) and then drew it back a little in the oven.  However I did it, it's still working fine.   

You could also probably get away with some bending by holding the bearing parts of the trigger in the vise, which would act as a heat sink, while you heat and bend the external part.

Good luck!
Jeff

[Acer Saccharum]

Care must be exercised when bending the trigger plate not to upset the relation between front and rear trigger, nor to distort the mortice in which the triggers work.

[elk killer]

sometimes it just easier to buy a Davis Yeager trigger kit, as they are already soft,
then shape or bend however you desired, then harden it

[Gaeckle]

Care must be exercised when bending the trigger plate not to upset the relation between front and rear trigger, nor to distort the mortice in which the triggers work.

.......sometimes when you do bend the triggerplate the srpings end up in a different position and angle....another problem to solve........

[B Shipman]

Here's some things you can do. I've never had a problem doing the trigger plate cold. And the mainspring isn't that hard to deal with providing a little thought. But to bend or literally reforge the triggers you need to get the part to dancing red heat and act fast. MAPP gas is fine. I almost always use the Davis Jaeger trigger. The one with the straight ,thick rear and the long front curl.

To flatten the front trigger you get two hard taps at dancing red heat and no more. Small parts lose heat fast. 3 hits is pushing and 4 is a borken part. Reheat and keep going. Same with bending. Davis offers a prebent rear Jaeger trigger, but it's not quuite there and I still prefer to start from sratch.




Heat the blades and contact point to red heat and quench in oil. Polish to read color. Then heat the body of the trigger so that the contact point goes just blond and you're done.

[Acer Saccharum]

Was your second trigger too long, so you curled it up? You coulda just cut it off.

[Acer Saccharum]

Also, refer to Ken G's tutorial on bending trigger plates:  http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=13420.msg126197#msg126197

[fm tim]

You might look at the video:
Gunbuilder's Companion Vol. 2
by Frank House.  He customizes a set trigger in that video.

By the way, you can rent it for $10 instead of buying.

See Smartflix.com