barrel brown problem

[Micah2]

Thank you all for reading and responding.  I recently finished my fowler after seven months, and I LOVE it.  Problem is,  I dont think my barrell brown (LMF) stopped rusting and now my barrell is too rough for a new gun.  I thought I had neutralized well enough with water and soda.  I do admit I did not heat the barrel before applying oil.  Do I need to start over?? 

[Black Hand]

Strip off oil and coat in a paste of baking soda & Water or use house-hold ammonia.  That should kill any residual acid.

[Long Ears]

I've had the best luck with the Ammonia. Bob

[heinz]

Micah, you can also lightly "card" it or steel wool it to get the new fininsh look back after you have stripped and degreased but before you have oiled it.

[Micah2]

Thanks guys, I think I will try to salvage what was an almost perfect first browning.  I will degrease and card, neutralize, and oil.  I really dont want to strip and sand.  Welcome to the school of hard knocks!  All things considered, If this was the worst problem I had, Im a happy longhunter!!  Thanks ALR

[Mark Elliott]

I have found that Ballistoll stops the rusting pretty well.   Two applications when it is done enough for me,  has generally settled things down.   If the surface is too rough for you,  just take some steel wool or Scotch Brite pads to it to smooth it off.   Generally,  when I rust a barrel,  I want it RUSTED.   I believe that most of the original brown barrels I see are not browned per se, but rusted over time either being originally finished armoury bright or charcoal blued.   IMHO.

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

The rough brown finish reduces sun glare...don't polish too smooth

[heinz]

Exercise great care when carding with scotch brite of steel wool on an oiled finish.  The oil makes the cutting action much quicker.

[Micah2]

Good advice.  I carded with #4 steel wool on underside of barrel for sample and you are right, oil makes it come off too quickly.  My question is this:  If I degrease/oil should I let it rust again for blending purposes or proceed directly to neutralizing stage.  I understand this depends on current condition and desired finish.  I will post a pic in a a few minutejavascript:surroundText('^{', '}', document.forms.postmodify.message);s and see what you guys think.  Thanks again.

[Micah2]

[Micah2]

[Micah2]

Might be talking to myself, nothing new.  I sanded and started over on my barrel.  This time I used our small bathroom and made a humidity room to speed things up.  I am waiting on fourth application and can already tell I am well on my way to a good, smooth, brown finish.  Thanks again for your help.  This gun is going to S.C. deer hunting this weekend and I cant wait. 
When I test fired it last weekend for the first time it was shooting five inch groups at fifty yds, no sight filing, freehand.
I live in NC and picked out these components in person in Candler.  Thanks Barbie. 

[davebozell]

No, you're not talking to yourself.  Your experience is very valuable to me (us).  I've heard of neutralizing aqua fortis, but didn't know to neutralize barrel brown too.  Hopefully this will make my efforts a little easier.

[Pete G.]

A little after the fact, but for a smooth brown try Plum Brown. I goes on hot and gives instant results.

[WadePatton]

Yes.  You found the method i would have tried-to slick it back some then leave it un-oiled in a high humidity environment for "natural" oxide production. 

oil it up when it gets where you like it.

[Micah2]

Well, I like the finish.  Just a very slight rusting after a few days.  I think this is normal.  Wiped it off with paper towel.  I expect it might build up very lightly again but feel that daily wipings with quality gun oil (not motor oil) will finish it off.  My next build will be a rifle.  Probably a Rowan style NC rifle.  This will be charcoal blued as per an original.  I wanted a brown barrel on this fowler for turkey, and because Jim Chambers' PA fowler that hangs in his vault is browned.  The pictures on their website do not do justice to how fine those guns really are.