Pewter Nosecap Issue

[greymount]

I recently poured a pewter nosecap and had a couple of small shallow holes in the pewter probably caused by an air bubble.  I attempted to puddle some pewter in those holes with my soldering iron, but the pewter did not adhere to the location. How would I make the pewter adhere and fill the hole?

[BillC]

You didn't get the base metal hot enough. Did you have the barrel in the stock? This will act as a heat sink thus not allowing a small melted area of the main pour for this to blend with. The soldering iron will work just be careful not to melt a big blob off.
Bill

[BillC]

Forgot to ask what was your source of pewter. Those little beads that th suppliers sell? I once read on one of those packages 95% tin 5% antimony. Thats the same thing as 95/5 plumbers solder which is what I have used and holding onto the extra left on the roll is a whole lot easier than trying to apply some beads if things need a little tweaking.
Bill

[mattdog]

Filling a void or pit "after the fact" is much like welding.  You have to melt the base metal and the filler at the same time.  Be sure that the piece is level with the void on top or it will drip away.  Heat the void until it puddles and then add the filler as it melts too.  It can be tricky, practice on a chunk of pewter first to get the feel of how fast things melt with the particular heating tool you are using.

[Ken G]

Filling a void can be very testing of your patience.  I keep a little film canister of clean pewter filings to use as filler.  Pour some into the void and onto a creased piece of paper so you can pour some extra into the void once it get hot enough.
There's no secret for this.  Just trial and error.  Usually more error. 
Ken

[Hungry Horse]

Voids can also happen when the metal is overheated, and actually boils. I heat the barrel good and warm, and then pour the pewter just as it completely liquifies.  A good rubbing of the rebated area, that receives the pewter, with a soft carbon carpenters pencil, will make the pewter flow better. An old fashioned copper tipped soldering iron, that is small enough to do this delicate job works well. They can be heated quite hot, over a propane torch, and allow a concentration of heat rather than a wider spread slower heating, produced by an electric soldering gun. A good paste flex will help the pewter flow together. Good luck.

                        Hungry Horse

[Chuck Burrows]

I do small repairs on pewter with TIX solder - it melts at about half the temp of the pewter so the pewter especially if you use an iron rather than a torch has much less chance of getting boogered up - color is close and if aged no real difference.

You can get TIX and it's flux at most jeweler's supply houses or places like Brownells

[Hungry Horse]

A similar product is marketed under the name Sta-Brite. It is a low melt, hard solder, as well, and would match your pewter fairly close. I use this to solder lugs, and sights, on fowlers. It is available at some craft stores and welding shops.

                  Hungry Horse