Horrible Trigger Pull...... HELP!!!

[gunner69]

I have a Miruku .45 caliber full stock rifle with a single trigger.   The rifle shoots a good group however, it must have a 25lb trigger pull.   Has anybody seen a video/directions on how to give this rifle a decient trigger pull?

[Dphariss]

Some of these are junk of the first water.
You need a ML gunsmith to look at the thing,  someone who knows a good ML from bad.
Does it say "Ultra-Hi" on it anywhere?
If so the trigger pull may be the least of your worries.
Miroku has made some really pitiful examples of MLs. Amazing a company of their stature would make this stuff but it happened.
Apparently they made some useable ones as well. But my "first impression" has stayed in force. The smoothbore with the two piece threaded together 1/2 octagonal barrel was particularly impressive.

Dan

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Post some pictures of the lock and trigger arrangement.  That way intelligent comments can be made that may be of some help to you.  Dan is right - again.  Having the rifle in hand would be best, but failing that, pictures here might solicit help.

[Hungry Horse]

About the only way I have been able to improve these horrible kit gun triggers,  is to remove the existing trigger, from the trigger plate, and fabricate  a new trigger that is tall enough to place the pivot pin higher in the stock ( pin it right through wood, behind the side plate) . By relocating the trigger pivot, and sear contact point, in regards to the sear bar,  the sear can be moved closer to the trigger pivot, you now have the mechanical advantage going the right way. So now it is working to make the felt trigger pull much less.
  A primitive trigger is easily made of hot rolled 1/8th"X 1" mild steel, and can be forged cold.

                  Hungry Horse

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Dan touched (gently as always) on the fact that these production line off shore products are seldom conducive to a light trigger pull.  You can do as HH sugests, and it will definitely make the trigger pull much less.  But if the lock is not designed well, you'll likely as not have the sear falling into the half cock notch as a result of your gunsmithing.  A lock without a fly in the tumbler must be designed correctly to avoid this and in my experience, these kinds of rifles and pistols won't work that way.  That heavy trigger pull assures that the sear is well clear of the tumbler as it passes the nose of the sear.  So moderation is your philosophy here.  Go at it slowly, with lots of trial and hopefully, no error.

[trentOH]

My Japanese Brown Bess, made by Miroku, had what I called a "Come-along trigger". That is, to fire it I would point it, then have someone use a come-along to overcome the trigger pull.  Willie Boitnott of Dayton was able to make it usable, but I don't remember what all magic he did. I do recall that he reduced the power of the mainspring, which could be used on old Toyota pickup trucks as an alternative to a leaf spring.

[Dphariss]

Unless there are extra parts available and/or a welder reducing the trigger pull requires a basic knowledge of the way all the parts work together and what to do with each one to make it work  reliably,  safely and with a proper release weight.
People who  do not understand this workings need professional help.
Chances are they are made this way because the people that assemble the things have no real understanding or no time to do it right so they are set up to surely not fall from full cock.
Of course I have heard tales of soldiers using 2 fingers to fire a musket back in the day.

Dan

[gunner69]

Thanks for all the comments.   I will try to get my son to take some pictures of the trigger set up for me when he next visits.